So I'm going to tell you a little bit about reimagining food. I've been interested in food for a long time. I taught myself to cook with a bunch of big books like this. I went to chef school in France. And there is a way the world both envisions food, the way the world writes about food and learns about food. And it's largely what you would find in these books. And it's a wonderful thing. But there's some things that have been going on since this idea of food was established.
我想和各位談談 有關食物的新思維 我對食物感興趣有很長一段時間了 我用了一大批這樣厚的書 來自學烹飪 我到法國的烹飪學校進修 但是世界對於事物的認知 對食物的描寫方式以及對於食物的研究方式 都有一個既定的概念 然後大家這些書上看到的都基本上是這樣的 這些都很好 但是在這些概念被定義之後 有些事情變得不一樣了
In the last 20 years, people have realized that science has a tremendous amount to do with food. In fact, understanding why cooking works requires knowing the science of cooking -- some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth. But that's not in any of those books. There's also a tremendous number of techniques that chefs have developed, some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food. There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria. He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine. A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal, he's developed his avant-garde cuisine. None of the techniques that these people have developed over the course of the last 20 years is in any of those books. None of them are taught in cooking schools. In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants. And finally, there's the old way of viewing food is the old way.
過去二十年裡 人們意識到科學 對食物有著很深的影響 實際上要了解烹飪的機理 必須要知道烹飪的科學 需要化學,物理等等的知識 但是這些並沒有出現在任何一本書裡 很多大廚研發出了 眾多的烹飪技巧 包括關於食物的新美學,新的烹調食物的方法 有位西班牙的廚師Ferran Adria 他研發出了一套非常前衛的佳餚 在英國的Heston Blumenthal 他也研發出自己的一套前衛美食 而這些人在過去二十年來 研發的烹飪技術沒有記載在 任何一本烹飪相關的書籍裡 這些技術也沒有在烹飪學校教授 想要學習這些技術,你必須在這些餐廳裡工作 還有就是 對於食物的傳統概念 產生出傳統的烹飪方式
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually -- I set out to say, is there a way we can communicate science and technique and wonder? Is there a way we can show people food in a way they have not seen it before? So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with. This is a picture called a cutaway. This is actually the first picture I took in the book. The idea here is to explain what happens when you steam broccoli. And this magic view allows you to see all of what's happening while the broccoli steams. Then each of the different little pieces around it explain some fact.
幾年以前--事實上就是四年前-- 我試問我們是否有一種 能將科學、烹飪技術和好奇心三者結合的方法? 是否能以一種前所未見的方式 讓我們將食物呈現在眾人眼前? 而我們嘗試了,待會兒我會展現成果給各位看 這張圖片叫做剖面圖 這也是我書裡的第一張圖 這張圖說明了 水蒸花椰菜時的實際情況 這神奇的視角讓人能看清楚 水蒸花椰菜時的 所有情形 圖片周圍的文字方塊 給予一些解釋
And the hope was two-fold. One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli. But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people into stuff that was a little more technical, maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y than they otherwise would have. Because with that beautiful photo, maybe I can also package this little box here that talks about how steaming and boiling actually take different amounts of time. Steaming ought to be faster. It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation, and this explains that.
我們希望做到兩點 其一是能真的解釋水蒸花椰菜的情況 另一點就是說不定我們可以引起人們對於 和他們平常的做法比起來 更技術化,比較科學,比較專業的 烹調的興趣 因為利用這美麗的圖片 也許我還能利用這裡的文字方塊 來描述蒸和煮 實際上會用上不同的時間 用蒸的應該會快些 原來這不是叫做薄膜凝結 這可以說明一切
Well, that first cutaway picture worked, so we said, "Okay, let's do some more." So here's another one. We discovered why woks are the shape they are. This shaped wok doesn't work very well; this caught fire three times. But we had a philosophy, which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
而第一張剖面圖奏效了 所以我們決定「好,我們多做一點」 這是另一張 我們發現為什麼炒菜鍋是這樣的形狀 這樣形狀的鍋子不是很好用 這鍋子起火了三次 不過我們有一個原則 就是只要東西能有千分之一秒好看就行了
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
And one of our canning cutaways. Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away, so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan. And each of these text blocks explains a key thing that's going on. In this case, boiling water canning is for canning things that are already pretty acidic. You don't have to heat them up as hot as you would something you do pressure canning because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid. So this is great for pickled vegetables, which is what we're canning here.
我們其中一個罐頭的剖面圖 一旦你開始把東西都切成兩半,你就停不下來了 所以各位看到我們把酒瓶及鍋子都切成兩半 裡面每個文字方塊 解釋了每個發生的關鍵事物 這裡是煮沸罐裝食品 來罐裝已經是醃漬過的事物 你就不需要把它完全加熱到 像你要製作壓力罐頭那樣高溫 因為細菌孢子無法在這樣(酸)的環境中生長 所以這種灌裝方式適合醃製的蔬菜 我們這裡展示的就是罐裝蔬菜
Here's our hamburger cutaway. One of our philosophies in the book is that no dish is really intrinsically any better than any other dish. So you can lavish all the same care, all the same technique, on a hamburger as you would on some much more fancy dish. And if you do lavish as much technique as possible, and you try to make the highest quality hamburger, it gets to be a little bit involved. The New York Times ran a piece after my book was delayed and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger Just Got Longer." Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe, if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff, it does take about 30 hours. Of course, you're not actually working the whole time. Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
這是我們的漢堡剖面圖 我們在書中提到的一個理念是 沒有哪一道菜餚 是真的從根本上比其他菜好 所以你可以大展身手 用相同的方式,相同的技術 來製作漢堡 如同你烹調出其他豐盛的美饌 如果你使用越多的豪華的烹調技術 來試圖烹煮出最高級的漢堡 這就需要投入更多心思 紐約時報在我的書延期時 寫了一篇報導 標題叫做「費工三十小時的漢堡 又得等更久了」 因為我們的漢堡配方,我們的終極漢堡配方 如果一個人要自己做出麵包和醃漬肉和其他所有的事情 這的確需要花上三十個小時 當然你並非真的三十個小時都在煮菜 大部分的時間都是在等待
The point of this cutaway is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before and to explain the physics of hamburgers and the chemistry of hamburgers, because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry -- in particular, those flames underneath the burger. Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal. Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference. Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning. So it's the fat that drips down and flares up that causes the characteristic taste.
這幅剖面圖的重點是 要呈現一個前所未見的漢堡樣貌給眾人 並解釋有關漢堡的物理資訊 和漢堡的化學資訊 因為信不信由你,這當中的確有物理和化學的事 特別是,烤漢堡肉的火焰 大多數的炭烤香味 並非來自木材或木炭 即便買豆蔻灌木的木炭實際上也不會有太大的差別 香味主要是因為脂肪高溫分解或燃燒 肉裡的脂肪滴下來經過火烤 才造就出如此特殊的風味
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways? Most people assume we use Photoshop. And the answer is: no, not really; we use a machine shop. And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half is to actually cut them in half. So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world. (Laughter) We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half. The manufacturer said, "What would it take for you to cut one in half?" I said, "It would have to show up free." And so it showed up, we used it a little while, we cut it in half.
各位也許想知道我們是如何製作這些剖面圖的? 大部分的人以為我們運用Photoshop編輯影像 但答案不是這樣 我們使用機器來製作這些影像 事實證明,要做出東西變成兩半的樣子的最好的方法 就是你真的得把他們都切成兩半 所以我們有"一半"世界上最好的廚房之一 (笑聲) 我們把一個價值五千塊的專業烤箱也切對半 製造商問說 「你把烤箱切成兩半要做什麼用?」 我說「因為要讓拍攝沒有阻礙。」 所以就像這樣,我們有使用一會兒 我們把東西切一半
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots. We would glue a piece of Pyrex or heat-resistant glass in front. We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that. The great thing is, when you cut something in half, you have another half. So you photograph that in exactly the same position, and then you can substitute in -- and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges. So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires, and then they take the wires away digitally so you're flying through the air.
各位可以看到我們是如何拍攝這些影像的 我們會粘上一塊 耐高溫玻璃在前面 我們使用了紅色耐高溫的矽膠做到這一點 優點是,當你把東西切一半 你有另一半的部分 然後就能在相同的位置拍攝 然後把東西替代進去 這部分有使用Photoshop,但只有邊緣的部分 這和好萊塢的電影非常相似 像人要利用鋼索從空中飛越 利用數位編輯把鋼索的部分修飾掉 就變成真的從空中飛越
In most cases, though, there was no glass. Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue. And so those coals that kept falling off the edge, we kept having to put them back up. But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second. The wok shot caught fire three times. What happens when you have your wok cut in half is the oil goes down into the fire and whoosh! One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way. But hey, they grow back.
大部分的圖是沒有使用到玻璃的 像剛才的漢堡圖,我們就只是把烤爐切半 所以木炭就不斷從邊緣的部分掉落 我們必須不斷把木炭再放回去 不過同樣的,照片只要千分之一秒看起來好看即可 炒菜鍋則起火了三次 當我們把鐵鍋切半後 油不斷流到火裡 然後霍地大火起來 我們其中一位廚師因此失去他的眉毛 但還好,眉毛後來長回來
In addition to cutaways, we also explain physics. This is Fourier's law of heat conduction. It's a partial differential equation. We have the only cookbook in the world that has partial differential equations in it. But to make them palatable, we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire and photographed it like this. We've got lots of little tidbits in the book. Everybody knows that your various appliances have wattage, right? But you probably don't know that much about James Watt. But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in. It's a little couple paragraphs to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt, and where he got his inspiration. It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery to understand why they were burning so damn much peat to distill the whiskey.
除了剖面圖外 我們也解釋了物理現象 這是傅立葉的熱傳導定律 這是一個偏微分的方程式 我們有了世界上唯一一本 刊載偏微分方程式的烹飪書 為了符合整體 我們像這樣用鋼板剪出形狀 放在火焰前面拍攝 我們在書裡也寫了很多的小花絮 大家都知道 各種電器都有瓦數,是吧? 但你可能不知道太多關於James Watt的事 但你現在會知道;我們把James Watt的生平也放進書裡 只是幾段文字敘述 解釋為什麼我們把熱的單位叫做瓦特 還有他是從何處得到靈感 原來他受僱於蘇格蘭的酒廠 明白他們為什麼燃燒如此多的泥炭 來提煉的威士忌
We also did a lot of calculation. I personally wrote thousands of lines of code to write this cookbook. Here's a calculation that shows how the intensity of a barbecue, or other radiant heat source, goes as you move away from it. So as you move vertically away from this surface, the heat falls off. As you move side to side, it moves off. That horn-shaped region is what we call the sweet spot. That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent. So that's the place where you really want to cook. And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing, which as far as I know, again, the first cookbook to ever do this. Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it. You know, there's two ways you can make a product. You can do lots of market research and do focus groups and figure out what people really want, or you can just kind of go for it and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
我們也做了很多的計算 我自己為了這烹飪書 寫了上千行代碼 這裡有一個計算式 顯示了燒烤強度 或其他輻射熱源 依照不同距離列出數據 所以當表面垂直移開 熱能就會減低 當您移動一邊到另一邊,就離開熱源 這喇叭形區域 就是我們所說的熱點 這地方的熱能變化能保持在10%以內 這地方是你真的想用來做飯的 而且它有這個有趣的喇叭狀的東西 這據我所知 也是首次有烹飪書紀錄這件事 也可能是最後一次有烹飪書這麼做 各位知道,有兩種方式 可以做出產品 可以做大量的市場調查 鎖定關鍵族群 了解大眾真正要的 或者就是直接去做 做一本你想要的書,然後盼望別人也喜歡這本書
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger. If you really want great hamburger, it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain. And it's really simple, as you can see here. As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray, and you just take it off in little passes, build it up, slice it vertically. Here's the final hamburger. This is the 30-hour hamburger. We make every aspect of this burger. The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it. We also have things about how to make the bun. There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
這裡有詳細的步驟說明如何磨碎漢堡肉 如果你真想要做出一個美味的漢堡 只要把絞肉做的平整就能有所改變 如同各位所見,這相當簡單 絞肉從磨碎機出來,你只需要一個小托盤 然後慢慢的拿出來就好 接著疊起來,垂直地切片 最後的漢堡成品在此 這是費時三十小時的漢堡 我們製作出漢堡所需要的每一種材料 生菜也用煙熏調味料熏過了 我們也有做漢堡麵包所需的材料 有蘑菇,番茄醬 --還有很多別的
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here. The popcorn is illustrating a key thing in physics. Isn't that beautiful? We have a very high-speed camera, which we had lots of fun with on the book. The key physics principle here is when water boils to steam it expands by a factor of 1,600. That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn. So it's a great illustration of that.
現在仔細看,這是爆米花,我待會兒會解釋 爆米花在物理學上 可以說明很關鍵的事 這漂亮吧 我們用高速攝影拍攝 這也讓我們從這本書上獲得許多樂趣 這裡的關鍵的物理原則 是當水變成蒸氣 會膨脹1,600倍 所以玉米粒裡頭水分是這麼變化的 這是一幅很精彩的插圖
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual. We have a chapter on gels. And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI, I thought, well, let's put in a recipe for a ballistics gelatin. Well, if you have a high-speed camera, and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around, pretty soon somebody does this. (Gasps) Now the amazing thing here is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot. The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down, it falls back down as a nice block.
最後我要用一段特別的影片做結尾 我們的書裡有一個篇章在談凝膠 因為大家會看流言終結者和CSI犯罪現場的節目 於是,我們也把這放進食譜裡 這是彈道明膠 如果你有高速攝影機 然後又有一塊彈道明膠 很快就有人拿來實驗了 (喘氣) 驚人的事發生了 彈道明膠能模擬出 人體肌肉受到槍擊的模樣 -- 這是為何我們不能受到槍擊 更驚人的是,當這塊彈道明膠落下時 還是完好如初像磚塊一樣
Anyway, here's the book. Here it is. 2,438 pages. And they're nice big pages too. (Applause) A friend of mine complained that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen, so there's a sixth volume that has washable, waterproof paper.
總之,書在這裡 就在這兒 有2,438頁 裡面有精美的大圖片 (掌聲) 我的一位朋友和我抱怨 這書太大本也太漂亮不適合拿進廚房 所以這一套共有六冊 還是用可清洗的防水紙印製的
(Applause)
(掌聲)