So I'm going to tell you a little bit about reimagining food. I've been interested in food for a long time. I taught myself to cook with a bunch of big books like this. I went to chef school in France. And there is a way the world both envisions food, the way the world writes about food and learns about food. And it's largely what you would find in these books. And it's a wonderful thing. But there's some things that have been going on since this idea of food was established.
我将告诉大家一些东西 关于重新看待食物 我对食物感兴趣已经有很长一段时间了 我通过一堆这类书 自学如何烹饪 我去法国烹饪学校进修 这个世界对食物的设想, 以及对食物的描写、学习, 都有一些既定的概念 这些通常你都能在这些书里面找到 这也是很奇妙的事情 但是自从食物这个概念被定义之后 有些事情就有了了变化
In the last 20 years, people have realized that science has a tremendous amount to do with food. In fact, understanding why cooking works requires knowing the science of cooking -- some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth. But that's not in any of those books. There's also a tremendous number of techniques that chefs have developed, some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food. There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria. He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine. A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal, he's developed his avant-garde cuisine. None of the techniques that these people have developed over the course of the last 20 years is in any of those books. None of them are taught in cooking schools. In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants. And finally, there's the old way of viewing food is the old way.
过去20年里 人们意识到科学 对食物有着巨大的影响 实际上,要了解为什么烹饪会有用, 需要了解烹饪的科学-- 有关化学,有关物理等等 但是这些没有写进任何一本书里 另外还有很多由厨师 发明出的技巧 有一些是新美学的,有一些新的烹饪方式 在西班牙有名厨师名叫费伦·阿德里亚 他发明了一种很先锋派的烹饪方式 英国一个叫Heston Blumenthal的人 发明了他自己的先锋派烹饪方式 这些人发明的技术 没有一个记录在过去20年中 任何一本书中 他们没有谁是在过烹饪学校进修过 为了学会烹饪 那就得去那些餐厅工作实习 最终 守旧的审视食物的模式 产生出守旧的烹饪方式
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually -- I set out to say, is there a way we can communicate science and technique and wonder? Is there a way we can show people food in a way they have not seen it before? So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with. This is a picture called a cutaway. This is actually the first picture I took in the book. The idea here is to explain what happens when you steam broccoli. And this magic view allows you to see all of what's happening while the broccoli steams. Then each of the different little pieces around it explain some fact.
几年之前--实际是四年前-- 我试问是否有种方法 来让我们将科学、技巧以及奇观联系在一起? 我们是否能以一种从未有过的角度 把食物展现给大家呢? 于是我们开始尝试,接下来我想展示给大家我们的结果 这是一张横切面图 实际这是我书里第一张照片 这里的意思是为了当你蒸西兰花时 会发什么什么 这神奇的角度让你看清 蒸西兰花时 发生的一切 周围的每个小插图 都解释了一些事实
And the hope was two-fold. One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli. But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people into stuff that was a little more technical, maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y than they otherwise would have. Because with that beautiful photo, maybe I can also package this little box here that talks about how steaming and boiling actually take different amounts of time. Steaming ought to be faster. It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation, and this explains that.
有两层目的 一个是,你可以解释当你蒸西兰花时发生了什么 另一个是,我们希望能引诱人们 去多了解一些技巧层面的东西 可能多一点科学性,可能多一点专业性 比他们原本能得到的多 因为这些美丽的画面旁 我可能会附上这种小版块 讲述蒸制和沸煮 为何所需时长不同 蒸制似乎应该会更快 而事实并非如此,因为某些叫做膜状冷凝的现象 导致蒸制所需时间更长
Well, that first cutaway picture worked, so we said, "Okay, let's do some more." So here's another one. We discovered why woks are the shape they are. This shaped wok doesn't work very well; this caught fire three times. But we had a philosophy, which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
第一张剖面图初见成效 于是我们说到 "好的,我们再做多一点吧。" 这是另外一个案例 我们发现为什么锅子是这个形状的 这种形状的锅子并不是很好用 它惹了三次火灾 但我们有自己的信念 它只要一千分之一秒地时间是好的就行啦
(Laughter)
(笑声)
And one of our canning cutaways. Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away, so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan. And each of these text blocks explains a key thing that's going on. In this case, boiling water canning is for canning things that are already pretty acidic. You don't have to heat them up as hot as you would something you do pressure canning because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid. So this is great for pickled vegetables, which is what we're canning here.
这是我们其中一个罐头剖面图 一旦你开始把事物对半开,你就会有点激动得忘形 所以你看到我们把罐头还有平底锅切成两半 这些文字 每段都解释了所发生的关键 这个例子中,沸水中的罐头 是用来贮存酸性食物的 不需要煮太热 不能像处理加压罐头一样 因为细菌孢子本来在酸性环境中就不能生长 这对腌制蔬菜来说是个好事儿 我们这个罐子里装的就是腌制蔬菜
Here's our hamburger cutaway. One of our philosophies in the book is that no dish is really intrinsically any better than any other dish. So you can lavish all the same care, all the same technique, on a hamburger as you would on some much more fancy dish. And if you do lavish as much technique as possible, and you try to make the highest quality hamburger, it gets to be a little bit involved. The New York Times ran a piece after my book was delayed and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger Just Got Longer." Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe, if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff, it does take about 30 hours. Of course, you're not actually working the whole time. Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
这是我们的汉堡切面 我们这本书的另一个信念 就是 没有一种食物从根本上比其它食物更高级 你大可以 采用那些高级餐点的技巧 来制作 一个汉堡 而且如果你尽可能使用更多的技巧 同时你尽可能制作最高质量的汉堡 那汉堡自己也会变得很争气 纽约时报写了一篇报道 是有关我的书的延迟出版的 报道名为 “30小时汉堡需要等待更久” 正是由于我们的汉堡菜谱,我们顶级的汉堡菜谱 如果你亲手烘烤面包,以及制作肉末,这些所有的事 确实是需要30小时 当然了,你并非一直在工作 大部分时间只需要坐在那里
The point of this cutaway is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before and to explain the physics of hamburgers and the chemistry of hamburgers, because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry -- in particular, those flames underneath the burger. Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal. Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference. Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning. So it's the fat that drips down and flares up that causes the characteristic taste.
这种切面的意义就在于 让人们从一种全新的视角观看汉堡 同时解释有关汉堡的物理学 以及有关汉堡的化学 因为,无论你信不信,这些都是物理和化学 尤其是这块汉堡下的那些火苗 大部分碳烤口味 并非真的来自木材或木碳 买最好的梅斯基特Mesquite木炭也不会有任何区别 这些口味主要是来自于脂肪的热化,另称为燃烧 因此脂肪滴落下来,再燃烧 才形成了独特的口味
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways? Most people assume we use Photoshop. And the answer is: no, not really; we use a machine shop. And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half is to actually cut them in half. So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world. (Laughter) We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half. The manufacturer said, "What would it take for you to cut one in half?" I said, "It would have to show up free." And so it showed up, we used it a little while, we cut it in half.
现在你可能会好奇,我们是怎样得到这些横切面的 大部分人会想当然认为我们使用Photoshop 但答案是否定的 我们有一个机器工厂 事实证明,把东西切成一半的最佳办法 就是实实在在地把它们对半切开 所以我们有了两半的世界上最棒的厨房 (笑声) 我们一共切了5000美金的餐厅用烤炉 制造商说 “你到底为了什么把它切成这样?” 我说,“为了能免费展出。” 于是我们用了一段时间后 把它对半切了
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots. We would glue a piece of Pyrex or heat-resistant glass in front. We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that. The great thing is, when you cut something in half, you have another half. So you photograph that in exactly the same position, and then you can substitute in -- and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges. So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires, and then they take the wires away digitally so you're flying through the air.
现在你还能看看我们是如何做到这一切的 我们会在前部粘上一片耐热薄膜 或者隔热玻璃 我们用一种红色的、耐高温的硅胶 令人高兴的事儿是,当你把东西对半切的时候 你还有了另一半 所以你用Photograph把另一半放到一样的位置里 去代替原来的那一半 这一部分我们确实是用了Photoshop -- 只是在边际处 所以这就跟好莱坞电影很像 一个男人佩戴保护线从空中飞过去, 然后用数码技术把保护线移除 你就看到他确实在空中飞翔
In most cases, though, there was no glass. Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue. And so those coals that kept falling off the edge, we kept having to put them back up. But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second. The wok shot caught fire three times. What happens when you have your wok cut in half is the oil goes down into the fire and whoosh! One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way. But hey, they grow back.
虽然在大部分情况下并没有玻璃 譬如这个汉堡,我们好歹把这个烧烤台切开了 这些煤炭一直从边角处掉出来 我们不得不一直把它们放回去 不过再申明一次,我们只需要千分之一秒 这个灶台闹了三次火灾 当你把你的灶台对半切 油就会一直滴到火里 然后“哄” 我们有一个厨师就是这样丢掉了眉毛 不过幸好他们又长回来了
In addition to cutaways, we also explain physics. This is Fourier's law of heat conduction. It's a partial differential equation. We have the only cookbook in the world that has partial differential equations in it. But to make them palatable, we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire and photographed it like this. We've got lots of little tidbits in the book. Everybody knows that your various appliances have wattage, right? But you probably don't know that much about James Watt. But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in. It's a little couple paragraphs to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt, and where he got his inspiration. It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery to understand why they were burning so damn much peat to distill the whiskey.
除了横切 我们还解释物理学 这是热传导的傅里叶定律 这是偏微分方程 我们是世界上唯一一本 有偏微分方程的烹饪书 为了让这些东西变得“可口” 我们把它从一个金属板上剪下来放到火焰前面 用Photograph做成了这样 这本书里,有我们许许多多这样的袖珍趣事 我想大家都知道所有设备 都有不同的瓦数,对吧? 但你可能不知道James Watt(詹姆斯瓦特) 但现在你知道了;我们加入了一段James Watt的生平简历 只是几小段 解释我们为什么会称这些热单位为瓦特 以及他是从哪里得到的灵感 事实是他为了了解 人们为什么为了蒸馏威士忌要耗费如此之多的泥碳 特地在苏格兰酿酒厂工作
We also did a lot of calculation. I personally wrote thousands of lines of code to write this cookbook. Here's a calculation that shows how the intensity of a barbecue, or other radiant heat source, goes as you move away from it. So as you move vertically away from this surface, the heat falls off. As you move side to side, it moves off. That horn-shaped region is what we call the sweet spot. That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent. So that's the place where you really want to cook. And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing, which as far as I know, again, the first cookbook to ever do this. Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it. You know, there's two ways you can make a product. You can do lots of market research and do focus groups and figure out what people really want, or you can just kind of go for it and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
我们也做了很多计算 我自己为了这本书 就写了数千行程序 这里就是计算 这里显示烧烤的强度 或者其它辐射热源 随距离长短的变化 当你在垂直方向远离热源时 热度降低 当你从水平移动时,热度会消失 这个喇叭状的区域 我们称之为最佳地点 这个区域的温度很均匀,差别在10%以内 这个区域是你真正想用来烹饪的 这里这个有趣的喇叭状的东西 是就我所知的, 全世界第一本烹饪书 当然也可能是最后一本有这玩意儿的烹饪书 你们知道, 推出一个产品有两种办法 你可以做大量的市场调研 以及目标客户群 去看看人们到底想要什么 或者你可以试着推出 你想要的书,再看看人们是不是喜欢
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger. If you really want great hamburger, it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain. And it's really simple, as you can see here. As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray, and you just take it off in little passes, build it up, slice it vertically. Here's the final hamburger. This is the 30-hour hamburger. We make every aspect of this burger. The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it. We also have things about how to make the bun. There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
这里手把手地教你怎样制作汉堡 如果你真的想要特别棒的汉堡 如果你调整配方,结果确实会与众不同 真的很简单,就如你在这儿看到的 当肉从磨子里出来的时候,就用一个小盘子接着 然后你把这些肉取出来 堆好,再纵切 这就是最后的成品汉堡 这是一个30小时的汉堡 我们亲手制作了这个汉堡的每一个细节 生菜这儿有液状烟雾 我们还展示了如何做面包 有蘑菇,番茄酱,以及其它各种材料
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here. The popcorn is illustrating a key thing in physics. Isn't that beautiful? We have a very high-speed camera, which we had lots of fun with on the book. The key physics principle here is when water boils to steam it expands by a factor of 1,600. That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn. So it's a great illustration of that.
现在仔细看,这是爆米花,我来做些解释 这个爆米花显示了 一个物理学里的关键点 是不是非常美丽 我们使用了超高速照相机 我们从这个照相机那儿得到了不少乐趣 这里的主要物理学原理 就是当沸水变成蒸汽时 会扩张1600倍 这就是玉米粒中的水发生的事 这个照片是个完美的诠释
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual. We have a chapter on gels. And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI, I thought, well, let's put in a recipe for a ballistics gelatin. Well, if you have a high-speed camera, and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around, pretty soon somebody does this. (Gasps) Now the amazing thing here is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot. The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down, it falls back down as a nice block.
现在让我用一段不一般地视频做个结尾。 我们有一章是讲胶状物的 因为大家都看Mythbusters和CSI 我想,那就让我们加一个 弹道明胶的菜谱 好吧,如果你有一个高速相机 还有一块弹道明胶 然后这样做 (惊叹) 现在令人惊讶的是 弹道明胶实际上是模仿 遭受枪击时人体发生的状况 -- 正因此你一定不可以被击中 另一件令人惊异的事是,当弹道明胶落回原处时 能够完全恢复到原本完美的块状
Anyway, here's the book. Here it is. 2,438 pages. And they're nice big pages too. (Applause) A friend of mine complained that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen, so there's a sixth volume that has washable, waterproof paper.
好吧书在这儿 这个就是 2438页 而且也很漂亮 (掌声) 我一个朋友抱怨 这本书太大太美带入厨房很不方便 所以我们就退出了六册 是可洗防水纸质的书
(Applause)
(掌声)