So I'm going to tell you a little bit about reimagining food. I've been interested in food for a long time. I taught myself to cook with a bunch of big books like this. I went to chef school in France. And there is a way the world both envisions food, the way the world writes about food and learns about food. And it's largely what you would find in these books. And it's a wonderful thing. But there's some things that have been going on since this idea of food was established.
Pričaću vam malo o ponovnom osmišljavanju hrane. Već dugo me interesuje hrana. Sam sam naučio kuhati uz gomilu velikih knjiga poput ove. Pohađao sam školu za kuhare u Francuskoj. I postoji način na koji svijet zamišlja hranu, način na koji se u svijetu piše o hrani i uči o hrani. I to je uglavnom ono što ćete pronaći u ovim knjigama. I to je nešto prekrasno. Ali, otkada je formirana ideja o hrani, izdešavale su se neke stvari.
In the last 20 years, people have realized that science has a tremendous amount to do with food. In fact, understanding why cooking works requires knowing the science of cooking -- some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth. But that's not in any of those books. There's also a tremendous number of techniques that chefs have developed, some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food. There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria. He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine. A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal, he's developed his avant-garde cuisine. None of the techniques that these people have developed over the course of the last 20 years is in any of those books. None of them are taught in cooking schools. In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants. And finally, there's the old way of viewing food is the old way.
U posljednjih 20 godina, ljudi su shvatili da je nauka uveliko povezana sa hranom. U stvari, da bi ste razumijeli zašto kuhanje funkcioniše, potrebno je znati nauku kuhanja -- nešto hemije, nešto fizike i tako dalje. Ali to se ne nalazi ni u jednoj od ovih knjiga. Takođe postoji ogroman broj tehnika koje su kuhari razvili, neke o novoj estetici, novim pristupima hrani. U Španiji postoji kuhar po imenu Ferran Adria. On je razvio veoma avangardnu kuhinju; tip u Engleskoj, po imenu Heston Blumenthal, on je razvio svoju avangardnu kuhinju. Nijedna od tehnika koje su ovi ljudi razvili u toku posljednjih 20 godina se ne nalazi u bilo kojoj od tih knjiga. Nijedna od njih se ne podučava u školama kuhanja Da biste ih naučili, morate otići i raditi u tim restoranima. I na kraju, postoji stari način razmišljanja o hrani i to je stari način.
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually -- I set out to say, is there a way we can communicate science and technique and wonder? Is there a way we can show people food in a way they have not seen it before? So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with. This is a picture called a cutaway. This is actually the first picture I took in the book. The idea here is to explain what happens when you steam broccoli. And this magic view allows you to see all of what's happening while the broccoli steams. Then each of the different little pieces around it explain some fact.
I tako sam prije nekoliko godina -- četiri godine, u stvari -- namjerio da otkrijem, postoji li način na koji možemo prikazati nauku, tehniku i čudo? Postoji li način na koji možemo ljudima pokazati hranu kako ju nisu vidjeli ranije? Pa smo pokušali, i pokazaću vam šta smo smislili. Ovakva slika se naziva presjek. Ovo je u stvari prva slika koju sam napravio za ovu knjigu. Ovdje je ideja da objasnimo šta se dešava kada brokulu kuhate na pari. I ovaj magični prizor vam omogućava da vidite sve što se događa dok se brokula kuha na pari. Zatim, svaki različit komadić oko nje objašnjava neku činjenicu.
And the hope was two-fold. One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli. But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people into stuff that was a little more technical, maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y than they otherwise would have. Because with that beautiful photo, maybe I can also package this little box here that talks about how steaming and boiling actually take different amounts of time. Steaming ought to be faster. It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation, and this explains that.
A namjera je bila dvostruka. Prva je da stvarno možete objasniti šta se događa kada brokulu kuhate na pari. Druga stvar je da možda možemo ljude zavesti stvarima koje su malo više tehničke, možda malo više naučne, možda malo više kuharske nego što bi to inače bile. Jer, sa ovom prelijepom fotografijom, možda mogu takođe upakovati i ovaj mali blok ovdje u kome se govori o tome kako parenje i kuhanje u stvari iziskuju različite količine vremena. Kuhanje na pari bi trebalo biti brže. Ispostavlja se da nije brže, zbog nečega što se naziva kondenzacija, a ovo je objašnjenje.
Well, that first cutaway picture worked, so we said, "Okay, let's do some more." So here's another one. We discovered why woks are the shape they are. This shaped wok doesn't work very well; this caught fire three times. But we had a philosophy, which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
Pa, prva slika presjeka je bila uspješna, pa smo rekli: "U redu, hajde da ih napravimo još." I evo još jedne. Otkrili smo zašto su vokovi oblikovani onako kako jesu. Vok ovoga oblika ne funkcioniše baš dobro; ovo se zapalilo tri puta. Ali mi smo imali filozofiju, prema kojoj to mora izgledati dobro samo hiljaditi dijelić sekunde.
(Laughter)
(Smijeh)
And one of our canning cutaways. Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away, so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan. And each of these text blocks explains a key thing that's going on. In this case, boiling water canning is for canning things that are already pretty acidic. You don't have to heat them up as hot as you would something you do pressure canning because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid. So this is great for pickled vegetables, which is what we're canning here.
I jedan od naših presjeka sa konzerviranjem. Jednom kada počnete stvari sjeći na pola, nekako se zanesete, pa vidite da smo i staklenke presjekli na pola, kao i posudu. I svaki od ovih blokova teksta objašnjava ključnu stvar koja se dešava. U ovom slučaju, konzerviranje ključalom vodom je za konzerviranje hrane koja je već poprilično kisela. Ne morate ih zagrijavati tako jako kao što bi ste zagrijavali nešto što konzervirate pod pritiskom, jer bakterijske spore ne mogu rasti u kiselini. Zato je ovo veoma dobro za ukiseljeno povrće, što upravo ovdje konzervišemo.
Here's our hamburger cutaway. One of our philosophies in the book is that no dish is really intrinsically any better than any other dish. So you can lavish all the same care, all the same technique, on a hamburger as you would on some much more fancy dish. And if you do lavish as much technique as possible, and you try to make the highest quality hamburger, it gets to be a little bit involved. The New York Times ran a piece after my book was delayed and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger Just Got Longer." Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe, if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff, it does take about 30 hours. Of course, you're not actually working the whole time. Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
Evo i našeg presjeka hamburgera. Jedna od naših filozofija u ovoj knjizi je da ni jedno jelo u stvari nije bolje od bilo kojeg drugog jela. Tako da možete posvetiti istu pažnju, sve iste tehnike na hamburger kao što biste učinili i za neko svečanije jelo. I ako budete upotrijebili najviši mogući nivo tehnike, za pravljenje najkvalitetnijeg mogućeg hamburgera, to može postati pomalo komplikovano. The New York Times je objavio članak kada je odgođeno objavljivanje moje knjige pod naslovom "Tridesetsatno čekanje za hamburger se upravo produžilo". Jer naš recept za hamburger, naš recept za najbolji hamburger, ako sami napravite pecivo i ako sami marinirate meso i uradite sve to, stvarno zahtijeva oko 30 sati. Naravno, vi u stvari ne radite cijelo to vrijeme. Većina vremena podrazumjeva da samo sjedite.
The point of this cutaway is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before and to explain the physics of hamburgers and the chemistry of hamburgers, because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry -- in particular, those flames underneath the burger. Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal. Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference. Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning. So it's the fat that drips down and flares up that causes the characteristic taste.
Smisao ovog presjeka je da se ljudima hamburger prikaže u svjetlu u kome ga nisu prije vidjeli, te da im se pokaže fizika hamburgera i hemija hamburgera, jer, vjerovali ili ne, ima nešto vezano i za fiziku i hemiju, konkretno, u plamenu ispod hamburgera. Glavnina karakterističnog ukusa roštilja na ugalj ne potiče od uglja ili drveta. Kupovina kvalitetnijeg uglja neće donijeti neku veliku razliku. Uglavnom, ukus potiče od pirolize, ili sagorijevanja, masnoće. Znači, masnoća koja kapa i gori je ono što uzrokuje karakterističan ukus.
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways? Most people assume we use Photoshop. And the answer is: no, not really; we use a machine shop. And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half is to actually cut them in half. So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world. (Laughter) We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half. The manufacturer said, "What would it take for you to cut one in half?" I said, "It would have to show up free." And so it showed up, we used it a little while, we cut it in half.
Sada biste se mogli zapitati kako mi pravimo ove presjeke? Većina ljudi pretpostavlja da koristimo Photoshop. I odgovor je ne, u stvari ga ne koristimo, koristimo radionicu. I ispostavilo se da je najbolji način da stvari presječemo na pola taj da ih stvarno presječemo na pola. Tako da imamo dvije polovice jedne od najboljih kuhinja na svijetu. (Smijeh) Presjekli smo restoransku pećnicu vrijednu 5,000 US$ na pola. Proizvođači su rekli: "Šta bi bio uslov da jednu od njih presječete na pola?" Rekao sam: "Morala bi biti besplatna." I tako je stigla, koristili smo ju jedno vrijeme, presjekli smo ju na pola.
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots. We would glue a piece of Pyrex or heat-resistant glass in front. We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that. The great thing is, when you cut something in half, you have another half. So you photograph that in exactly the same position, and then you can substitute in -- and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges. So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires, and then they take the wires away digitally so you're flying through the air.
Sada takođe možete vidjeti kako smo napravili neke od ovih fotografija. Zalijepili bismo komad Pyrex stakla ili vatrostalnog stakla na prednju stranu. Koristili smo crveni silikon, otporan na veoma visoke temperature, kako bi smo to postigli. Kada nešto presječete na pola,dobra je stvar što imate i drugu polovinu. Tako da ju fotografišete tačno na istoj poziciji. i onda možete zamijeniti -- i taj dio stvarno zahtijeva Photoshop -- samo ivice. Tako da ovo poprilično liči na holivudski film gdje tip leti kroz vazduh, na sajlama, i onda oni sajle digitalno uklone tako da ispada da stvarno leti kroz vazduh.
In most cases, though, there was no glass. Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue. And so those coals that kept falling off the edge, we kept having to put them back up. But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second. The wok shot caught fire three times. What happens when you have your wok cut in half is the oil goes down into the fire and whoosh! One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way. But hey, they grow back.
U većini slučajeva, ipak, nije bilo stakla. Kao na primjer za hamburger, samo smo presjekli prokleti roštilj. I onaj ugalj je stalno ispadao preko ivice, a mi smo ga morali vraćati. Ali, opet, to mora funkcionisati samo hiljaditi dio sekunde. Vok se zapalio tri puta. Ono što se desi kada svoj vok presječete na pola je da se ulje slije u vatru i vuuuuš! Jedan od naših kuhara je tako ostao bez obrva. Ali hej, one ponovo narastu.
In addition to cutaways, we also explain physics. This is Fourier's law of heat conduction. It's a partial differential equation. We have the only cookbook in the world that has partial differential equations in it. But to make them palatable, we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire and photographed it like this. We've got lots of little tidbits in the book. Everybody knows that your various appliances have wattage, right? But you probably don't know that much about James Watt. But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in. It's a little couple paragraphs to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt, and where he got his inspiration. It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery to understand why they were burning so damn much peat to distill the whiskey.
Uz presjeke, takođe objašnjavamo fiziku. Ovo je Fourierov zakon provođenja toplote. To je parcijalna diferencijalna jednačina. Mi imamo jedinu kuharicu na svijetu u kojoj se nalaze parcijalne diferencijalne jednačine. Ali, kako bi smo ih učinili opipljivima, isjekli smo ih na čeličnoj ploči i stavili smo ju ispred vatre te smo ih tako fotografisali. Imamo mnogo sitnih poslastica u knjizi. Svi znaju da različiti kućanski aparati imaju potrošnju izraženu u vatima, zar ne? Ali vjerovatno ne znate mnogo o Jamesu Wattu. Ali sada ćete znati; uključili smo biografiju Jamesa Watta u knjigu. To je nekoliko paragrafa koji objašnjavaju zašto tu jedinicu za toplotu zovemo vat i odakle je on crpio inspiraciju. Ispostavilo se da ga je angažovala jedna škotska destilerija kako bi ustanovili zašto zašto su koristili toliko vražjeg treseta za destilaciju viskija.
We also did a lot of calculation. I personally wrote thousands of lines of code to write this cookbook. Here's a calculation that shows how the intensity of a barbecue, or other radiant heat source, goes as you move away from it. So as you move vertically away from this surface, the heat falls off. As you move side to side, it moves off. That horn-shaped region is what we call the sweet spot. That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent. So that's the place where you really want to cook. And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing, which as far as I know, again, the first cookbook to ever do this. Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it. You know, there's two ways you can make a product. You can do lots of market research and do focus groups and figure out what people really want, or you can just kind of go for it and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
Takođe smo dosta računali. Ja sam lično napisao hiljade linija koda kako bih napisao ovu kuharicu. Ovo je kalkulacija koja prikazuje kako se kreće intenzitet roštilja, ili nekog drugog izvora topline koji zrači, kada se odmičete od njega. Dakle, ako se vertikalno udaljavate od ove površine, toplota se smanjuje. Kako se krećete sa jedne na drugu stranu, ona nestaje. To područje u obliku roga je ono što nazivamo slatka tačka. To je mjesto gdje je toplota ujednačena do unutar 10%. Dakle, to je mjesto gdje stvarno želite kuhati. I ima ovu smiješnu stvar u obliku roga, što je, ponovo, koliko je meni poznato, prva kuharica do sada u kojoj je ovo urađeno. Sada, ona bi takođe mogla biti i posljednja kuharica u kojoj je ovo ikada urađeno. Znate, postoje dva načina da napravite proizvod. Možete detaljno istraživati tržište i napraviti fokus grupe i shvatiti šta ljudi stvarno žele, ili možete jednostavno pokušati i napraviti knjigu kakvu vi želite i nadati se da će se svidjeti i drugim ljudima.
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger. If you really want great hamburger, it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain. And it's really simple, as you can see here. As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray, and you just take it off in little passes, build it up, slice it vertically. Here's the final hamburger. This is the 30-hour hamburger. We make every aspect of this burger. The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it. We also have things about how to make the bun. There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
Ovdje korak po korak pokazujemo kako se melje hamburger. Ako stvarno želite fenomenalan hamburger, ispostavilo se da igra ulogu kako poravnate zrnca. I to je stvarno jednostavno, kao što ovdje možete vidjeti. Kako izlazi iz mašine za mljevenje, stavite mali poslužavnik, i uzimate ga u manjim količinama, sastavite ga, isiječete vertikalno. Ovdje je gotov hamburger. Ovo je hamburger od 30 sati. Mi pravimo sve dijelove ovog hamburgera. U salatu je ubrizgan tečni dim. Takođe imamo objašnjenja kako se pravi pecivo. Tu je i gljiva, kečap -- i tako dalje, i tako dalje.
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here. The popcorn is illustrating a key thing in physics. Isn't that beautiful? We have a very high-speed camera, which we had lots of fun with on the book. The key physics principle here is when water boils to steam it expands by a factor of 1,600. That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn. So it's a great illustration of that.
Sada pažljivo gledajte. Ovo su kokice. Objasniću ovdje. Kokice ilustruju jednu od ključnih stvari u fizici. Zar ovo nije prelijepo. Imamo veoma brzu kameru, s kojom smo se mnogo zabavljali radeći na knjizi. Ključno načelo fizike ovdje je kada voda ključa i prelazi u paru ona se proširi za faktor od 1,600. To je ono što se dešava sa vodom unutar kokica. Tako da je ovo odlična ilustracija toga.
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual. We have a chapter on gels. And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI, I thought, well, let's put in a recipe for a ballistics gelatin. Well, if you have a high-speed camera, and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around, pretty soon somebody does this. (Gasps) Now the amazing thing here is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot. The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down, it falls back down as a nice block.
Sada ću završiti sa videom koji je pomalo nebičan. Imamo poglavlje o gelovima. I pošto ljudi gledaju Mythbusterse i CSI, pomislio sam, pa, hajde da damo i recept za balistički želatin. Pa, ako imate brzu kameru, i ako pri ruci imate komad balističkog želatina, veoma brzo neko uradi ovo. (Uzdasi) Ono što je ovdje nevjerovatno je to što bi balistički žele trebao simulirati šta se događa sa ljudskim mesom kada vas upucaju -- zato vas ne bi trebali upucati. Druga nevjerovatna stvar je, kada se ovaj balistički želatin smiri, padne dole kao fini blok.
Anyway, here's the book. Here it is. 2,438 pages. And they're nice big pages too. (Applause) A friend of mine complained that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen, so there's a sixth volume that has washable, waterproof paper.
U svakom slučaju, evo knjige. Evo je. 2,435 stranica. I to su lijepe velike stranice takođe. (Aplauz) Jedan od mojih prijatelja se požalio da je prevelika i prelijepa da bi ju držali u kuhinji, tako da postoji i šesti tom koji je napravljen od vodootpornog papira koji možete prati.
(Applause)
(Aplauz)