So I'm going to tell you a little bit about reimagining food. I've been interested in food for a long time. I taught myself to cook with a bunch of big books like this. I went to chef school in France. And there is a way the world both envisions food, the way the world writes about food and learns about food. And it's largely what you would find in these books. And it's a wonderful thing. But there's some things that have been going on since this idea of food was established.
Dakle, pričat ću vam malo o ponovnom osmišljavanju hrane. Interesira me hrana već duže vrijeme. Naučio sam kuhati pomoću hrpe velikih knjiga poput ove. Otišao sam u školu za kuhare u Francuskoj. I postoji način na koji svijet i zamišlja hranu, način na koji svijet piše o hrani i uči o hrani. A to je većinom ono što biste našli u tim knjigama. I to je prekrasna stvar. Ali događaju se neke stvari otkada je ideja hrane postavljena.
In the last 20 years, people have realized that science has a tremendous amount to do with food. In fact, understanding why cooking works requires knowing the science of cooking -- some of the chemistry, some of the physics and so forth. But that's not in any of those books. There's also a tremendous number of techniques that chefs have developed, some about new aesthetics, new approaches to food. There's a chef in Spain named Ferran Adria. He's developed a very avant-garde cuisine. A guy in England called Heston Blumenthal, he's developed his avant-garde cuisine. None of the techniques that these people have developed over the course of the last 20 years is in any of those books. None of them are taught in cooking schools. In order to learn them, you have to go work in those restaurants. And finally, there's the old way of viewing food is the old way.
U posljednjih 20 godina, ljudi su shvatili kako je znanost jako povezana s hranom. Zapravo, shvaćanje zašto kuhanje funkcionira, zahtjeva znanje o znanosti kuhanja -- nešto kemije, nešto fizike i tako dalje. Ali to nije u nijednoj od ovih knjiga. Postoji ujedno i ogroman broj tehnika koje su kuhari razvili, neke o novoj estetici, neke nove pristupe hrani. Postoji kuhar u Španjolskoj zvan Ferran Adria. On je razvio veoma avangardnu kuhinju; čovjek u Engleskoj zvan Heston Blumenthal, on je razvio svoju avangardnu kuhinju. Nijedna od tih tehnika koju su ti ljudi razvili u posljednjih 20 godina nije u ijednoj od ovih knjiga. Nijedna od njih se ne podučava u kuharskim školama. Ukoliko ih želite naučiti, morate otići raditi u te restorane. I na kraju, postoji stari način gledanja hrane i to je stari način.
And so a few years ago -- fours years ago, actually -- I set out to say, is there a way we can communicate science and technique and wonder? Is there a way we can show people food in a way they have not seen it before? So we tried, and I'll show you what we came up with. This is a picture called a cutaway. This is actually the first picture I took in the book. The idea here is to explain what happens when you steam broccoli. And this magic view allows you to see all of what's happening while the broccoli steams. Then each of the different little pieces around it explain some fact.
I stoga prije nekoliko godina -- zapravo, prije četiri godine -- otišao sam kako bih otkrio, postoji li način na koji možemo komunicirati znanost i tehniku i čudo? Postoji li način na koji možemo pokazati hranu ljudima na koji je oni još nikada prije nisu vidjeli? Stoga smo pokušali i pokazati ću vam do čega smo došli. Ova slika je zvana raščišćivanje. Ovo je zapravo prva slika koju sam snimio u knjizi. Ideja je ovdje objasniti što se događa kada parite brokulu. A ovaj magičan pogled vam omogućava da vidite sve što se događa kada se brokula pari. Zatim svaki mali različiti komadić oko nje objašnjava neku činjenicu.
And the hope was two-fold. One is you can actually explain what happens when you steam broccoli. But the other thing is that maybe we could seduce people into stuff that was a little more technical, maybe a little bit more scientific, maybe a little bit more chef-y than they otherwise would have. Because with that beautiful photo, maybe I can also package this little box here that talks about how steaming and boiling actually take different amounts of time. Steaming ought to be faster. It turns out it isn't because of something called film condensation, and this explains that.
A nada je bila dvostruka. Prvo možete zapravo objasniti što se događa kada parite brokulu. A druga stvar je bila kako možda možemo zavesti ljude da ih privuku stvari koje su više tehničke, možda malo znanstvene, možda malo više kuharske nego što bi to inače bile. Jer s tom prekrasnom fotografijom, možda mogu upakirati i ovu malu kutiju ovdje koja priča o tome kako parenje i vrenje zahtjevaju različito vrijeme. Parenje bi trebalo biti brže. Ispostavlja se kako nije zbog nečega što se zove kondenzacija filma, a ovo to objašnjava.
Well, that first cutaway picture worked, so we said, "Okay, let's do some more." So here's another one. We discovered why woks are the shape they are. This shaped wok doesn't work very well; this caught fire three times. But we had a philosophy, which is it only has to look good for a thousandth of a second.
Dakle, ta prva pročišćena slika je funkcionirala, stoga smo rekli, "U redu, hajdemo učiniti više." Stoga je ovdje još jedna. Otkrili smo zašto wokovi imaju oblik koji imaju. Wok ovog oblika ne funkcionira jako dobro; ovo se zapalilo tri puta. Ali naša filozofija je govorila kako mora dobro izgledati samo jednu tisućinku sekunde.
(Laughter)
(Smijeh)
And one of our canning cutaways. Once you start cutting things in half, you kind of get carried away, so you see we cut the jars in half as well as the pan. And each of these text blocks explains a key thing that's going on. In this case, boiling water canning is for canning things that are already pretty acidic. You don't have to heat them up as hot as you would something you do pressure canning because bacterial spores can't grow in the acid. So this is great for pickled vegetables, which is what we're canning here.
I jedna od naših konzerviranih pročišćenih slika. Jednom kada počnete rezati stvari napola, nekako se zanesete pa vidite kako smo izrezali staklenke na pola kao i tavu. A svaki od ovih blokova teksta objašnjava ključnu stvar koja se događa. U ovom slučaju, konzerviranje vode koja ključa je za konzerviranje stvari koje su već prilično kisele. Ne morate ih jako zagrijati kao što biste zagrijali nešto što je konzervirano pod pritiskom, jer spore bakterija ne mogu rasti u kiselini. Dakle, to je odlično za ukiseljeno povrće, što je ono što konzerviramo ovdje.
Here's our hamburger cutaway. One of our philosophies in the book is that no dish is really intrinsically any better than any other dish. So you can lavish all the same care, all the same technique, on a hamburger as you would on some much more fancy dish. And if you do lavish as much technique as possible, and you try to make the highest quality hamburger, it gets to be a little bit involved. The New York Times ran a piece after my book was delayed and it was called "The Wait for the 30-Hour Hamburger Just Got Longer." Because our hamburger recipe, our ultimate hamburger recipe, if you make the buns and you marinate the meat and you do all this stuff, it does take about 30 hours. Of course, you're not actually working the whole time. Most of the time is kind of sitting there.
Ovdje je naš presjek hamburgera. Jedna od naših filozofija u knjizi je kako niti jedno jelo nije intrinzično išta bolje nego bilo koje drugo jelo. Dakle, možete usmjeriti istu skrb, istu tehniku na hamburger kao što biste to napravili na puno otmjenijem jelu. A ukoliko i posvetite tome tehnike koliko je to moguće i pokušate napraviti hamburger najviše kvalitete, dolazi se do malenog uključivanja. New York Times je objavio članak nakon što je objavljivanje moje knjige odgođeno i nazvan je "Čekanje za 30 satnim hamburgerom se upravo produžilo". Jer naš recept za hamburger, naš ultimativni recept za hamburger, ukoliko napravite peciva i marinirate meso i napravite sve te stvari, zahtjeva 30 sati. Naravno, zapravo ne radite cijelo to vrijeme. Većinu vremena samo sjedite tamo.
The point of this cutaway is to show people a view of hamburgers they haven't seen before and to explain the physics of hamburgers and the chemistry of hamburgers, because, believe it or not, there is something to the physics and chemistry -- in particular, those flames underneath the burger. Most of the characteristic char-grilled taste doesn't come from the wood or the charcoal. Buying mesquite charcoal will not actually make that much difference. Mostly it comes from fat pyrolyzing, or burning. So it's the fat that drips down and flares up that causes the characteristic taste.
Poanta ovog presjeka je pokazati ljudima pogled na hamburgere koje još nikada prije nisu vidjeli i objasniti fiziku hamburgera i kemiju hamburgera, jer, vjerovali ili ne, postoji nešto u fizici i kemiji, naročito, ti plamenovi ispod hamburgera. Većina karakteristika okusa roštilja ne dolazi od drva ili ugljena za roštilj. Kupovanje mesquite ugljena neće zapravo napraviti toliku razliku. Većina dolazi od same pirolizacije ili gorenja. Dakle, masnoća koja pada dolje i gori je ta koja stvara karakterističan okus.
Now you might wonder, how do we make these cutaways? Most people assume we use Photoshop. And the answer is: no, not really; we use a machine shop. And it turns out, the best way to cut things in half is to actually cut them in half. So we have two halves of one of the best kitchens in the world. (Laughter) We cut a $5,000 restaurant oven in half. The manufacturer said, "What would it take for you to cut one in half?" I said, "It would have to show up free." And so it showed up, we used it a little while, we cut it in half.
Sada se možda pitate, kako napravimo ove presjeke? Većina ljudi pretpostavlja kako koristimo Photoshop. A odgovor je: ne, ne zapravo, koristimo trgovinu strojevima. I ispostavlja se kako je najbolji način rezanja stvari napola da ih se zapravo izreže na pola. Dakle, imamo dvije polovice jedne od najboljih kuhinja na svijetu. (Smijeh) Razrezali smo 5.000 US$ vrijednu pećnicu u restoranu na pola. Proizvođač je rekao, "Što vam treba da je razrežete na pola?" Rekao sam, "Trebala bi biti besplatna." I kako se pojavila, malo smo je koristili, prerezali smo je na pola.
Now you can also see a little bit how we did some of these shots. We would glue a piece of Pyrex or heat-resistant glass in front. We used a red, very high-temperature silicon to do that. The great thing is, when you cut something in half, you have another half. So you photograph that in exactly the same position, and then you can substitute in -- and that part does use Photoshop -- just the edges. So it's very much like in a Hollywood movie where a guy flies through the air, supported by wires, and then they take the wires away digitally so you're flying through the air.
Sada možete isto tako vidjeti kako smo uslikali neke od tih slika. Zalijepili bismo dio Pyrexa ili vatrostalnog stakla sprijeda. Koristili smo crveni, silikon vrlo visoke temperature kako bismo to napravili. Odlična stvar je kada prerežete nešto na pola, imate drugu polovicu. Dakle, to možete fotografirati u potpuno istoj poziciji i zatim to možete zamijeniti -- i za taj dio se koristi Photoshop -- samo rubovi. Dakle, to je više poput Hollywoodskog filma gdje čovjek leti kroz zrak, žice ga podržavaju i zatim digitalno uklone žice tako da vi letite kroz zrak.
In most cases, though, there was no glass. Like for the hamburger, we just cut the damn barbecue. And so those coals that kept falling off the edge, we kept having to put them back up. But again, it only has to work for a thousandth of a second. The wok shot caught fire three times. What happens when you have your wok cut in half is the oil goes down into the fire and whoosh! One of our cooks lost his eyebrows that way. But hey, they grow back.
U većini slučaja ipak nije bilo stakla. Kao i za hamburger, samo smo prerezali vražji roštilj. I tako taj ugljen koji je padao s rubova, morali smo ga stavljati natrag gore. Ali opet, mora samo funkcionirati tisućinku sekunde. Prizor woka se zapalio tri puta. Ono što se dogodi kada prerežete wok na pola je da ulje padne dolje na vatru i vuuuuš! Jedan od naših kuhara je na taj način izgubio svoje obrve. Ali, hej, one narastu natrag.
In addition to cutaways, we also explain physics. This is Fourier's law of heat conduction. It's a partial differential equation. We have the only cookbook in the world that has partial differential equations in it. But to make them palatable, we cut it out of a steel plate and put it in front of a fire and photographed it like this. We've got lots of little tidbits in the book. Everybody knows that your various appliances have wattage, right? But you probably don't know that much about James Watt. But now you will; we put a biography of James Watt in. It's a little couple paragraphs to explain why we call that unit of heat the watt, and where he got his inspiration. It turned out he was hired by a Scottish distillery to understand why they were burning so damn much peat to distill the whiskey.
Uz presjeke, isto tako objašnjavamo fiziku. Ovo je Fourierov zakon provođenja vrućine. To je djelomična diferencijalna jednadžba. Imamo jedinu kuharicu na svijetu koja u sebi ima djelomične diferencijalne jednadžbe. Ali kako bi ih učinili ukusnima, izrezali smo ga iz čeličnog tanjura i stavili ispred vatre i fotografirali to ovako. Imamo puno tih malih sitnica u knjizi. Svi znaju kako vaši razni uređaji imaju potrošnju u vatima, točno? Ali vjerojatno ne znate toliko puno o Jamesu Wattu. Ali sada ćete znati; stavili smo u nju biografiju Jamesa Watta. To je par malih odlomaka kako bi objasnili zašto tu jedinicu topline zovemo watt i otkuda mu ta inspiracija. Ispostavilo se kako se zaposlio u škotskoj destileriji kako bi shvatio zašto su sagorijevali toliko mnogo treseta kako bi destilirali whiskey.
We also did a lot of calculation. I personally wrote thousands of lines of code to write this cookbook. Here's a calculation that shows how the intensity of a barbecue, or other radiant heat source, goes as you move away from it. So as you move vertically away from this surface, the heat falls off. As you move side to side, it moves off. That horn-shaped region is what we call the sweet spot. That's the place where the heat is even to within 10 percent. So that's the place where you really want to cook. And it's got this funny horn-shaped thing, which as far as I know, again, the first cookbook to ever do this. Now it may also be the last cookbook that ever does it. You know, there's two ways you can make a product. You can do lots of market research and do focus groups and figure out what people really want, or you can just kind of go for it and make the book you want and hope other people like it.
Isto tako smo puno kalkulacija proveli. Osobno sam napisao tisuća linija koda kako bi napisao ovu kuharicu. Ovdje je izračun koji pokazuje kako intenzitet roštilja, ili drugi izvor zračenja topline, se miče kako se odmičete od njega. Dakle, kako se vertikalno odmičete od te površine, vrućina se smanjuje. Kako se pomičete na stranu, ona nestaje. Ovu regiju u obliku roga zovemo slatka točka. To je mjesto gdje je vrućina čak i unutar 10 posto. Dakle, to je mjesto gdje doista želite kuhati. I ima tu smiješnu stvar u obliku roga koja je, koliko ja znam, prva kuharica u kojoj je to ikada zapisano. Sada bi to mogla biti i posljednja kuharica koja će to ikada i imati. Znate, postoje dva načina kako izraditi proizvod. Možete provesti puno istraživanja tržišta i raditi s fokus grupama i dokučiti što ljudi doista žele ili jednostavno možete samo krenuti za time i izraditi knjigu koju želite i nadati se kako će se i drugima svidjeti.
Here's a step-by-step that shows grinding hamburger. If you really want great hamburger, it turns out it makes a difference if you align the grain. And it's really simple, as you can see here. As it comes out of the grinder, you just have a little tray, and you just take it off in little passes, build it up, slice it vertically. Here's the final hamburger. This is the 30-hour hamburger. We make every aspect of this burger. The lettuce has got liquid smoke infused into it. We also have things about how to make the bun. There's a mushroom, ketchup -- it goes on and on.
Ovdje je prikazan korak-po-korak način mljevenja hamburgera. Ukoliko doista želite odličan hamburger, ispostavlja se kako ima razlike u pravilnom poravnanju zrna. I to je doista jednostavno, kao što možete i vidjeti ovdje. Kako izlazi iz stroja za mljevenje, imamo samo mali pladanj i samo ga uzimate kako dolazi, gomilate ga, narežete ga vertikalno. Ovdje je konačni hamburger. Ovo je hamburger od 30 sati. Pravimo svaki aspekt ovog hamburgera. U zelenu salatu je ubrizgan tekući dim. Isto tako imamo savjet o tome kako napraviti pecivo. Imamo gljivu, kečap -- popis se nastavlja.
Now watch closely. This is popcorn. I'll explain it here. The popcorn is illustrating a key thing in physics. Isn't that beautiful? We have a very high-speed camera, which we had lots of fun with on the book. The key physics principle here is when water boils to steam it expands by a factor of 1,600. That's what's happening to the water inside that popcorn. So it's a great illustration of that.
Sada gledajte pozorno. Ovo je kokica. Ovdje ću to objasniti. Kokica ilustrira ključnu stvar u fizici. Nije li to lijepo. Imamo vrlo brzu kameru, s kojom smo imali jako puno zabave radeći na kuharici. Ključni princip fizike ovdje je kada voda proključa do pare ona se proširi multiplikatorom od 1.600. To je ono što se događa s vodom unutar te kokice. Dakle, to je odlična ilustracija toga.
Now I'm going to close with a video that is kind of unusual. We have a chapter on gels. And because people watch Mythbusters and CSI, I thought, well, let's put in a recipe for a ballistics gelatin. Well, if you have a high-speed camera, and you have a block of ballistics gelatin lying around, pretty soon somebody does this. (Gasps) Now the amazing thing here is that a ballistics gelatin is supposed to mimic what happens to human flesh when you get shot -- that's why you shouldn't get shot. The other amazing thing is, when this ballistics gelatin comes down, it falls back down as a nice block.
Sada, završiti ću s videom koji je na neki način neobičan. Imamo poglavlje o gelovima. I zato jer ljudi gledaju Mythbustere i CSI, pomislio sam, pa, stavimo to u recept za balističku želatinu. Pa, ako imate brzu kameru i imate blok balističke želatine koja leži okolo, prilično brzo netko to radi. (Dahtanje) Sada, nevjerojatna stvar ovdje je kako bi balistička želatina trebala oponašati što se događa ljudskom tkivu kada vas upucaju -- zato nemojte da vas upucaju. Druga nevjerojatna stvar je, kada se balistička želatina istroši, padne dolje kao lijepi blok.
Anyway, here's the book. Here it is. 2,438 pages. And they're nice big pages too. (Applause) A friend of mine complained that this was too big and too pretty to go in the kitchen, so there's a sixth volume that has washable, waterproof paper.
Uglavnom, ovdje je knjiga. Evo je. 2.438 strana. A ujedno su to i velike stranice. (Pljesak) Moj prijatelj se žalio kako je to preveliko i prelijepo da se stavi u kuhinju, stoga je ovdje šesto izdanje koje ima vodootporni papir koji se može prati.
(Applause)
(Pljesak)