Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time. Like walking on water, like flying. I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.
衝浪就像是突然加速 然後同時滑行 像在水上行走、像飛翔 其實就是與一個自然現象合而為一吧
[Small thing. Big idea.]
[小東西,大思維]
The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking. How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off? But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment. It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others.
衝浪板需要很多人體工學上的考量 我要怎麼站在上面?要怎麼不滑倒? 但同時 它又得真的能用在水上 衝浪板一定要同時考量到 衝浪者的許多面向 水流及物理學等等
A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam, which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass. There often is also a stringer, a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger. The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front. That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is. The tail affects performance. Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference.
衝浪板主要是由一種 類似泡綿的成分所組成 因此才能讓板子浮起來 而板子的表面材質是樹脂 環氧樹脂,有時是玻璃纖維 通常衝浪板還會有一條縱樑 也就是貫穿中央的木頭 能增加衝浪板的強度 板弧就是板頭的弧度 板弧相當重要 因為它決定你能衝什麼樣的浪 能衝多高的浪 板尾影響了衝浪表現 不同的板尾會使衝浪板有不同的性能 所以這和個人偏好比較有關
Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii. So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked. Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it. It becomes an illegal activity. It becomes counterculture.
我們對於衝浪的了解 可追溯到公元前 1200 年 由大溪地人將衝浪帶入夏威夷 大概在西元 1780 年 當庫克船長抵達夏威夷時 他被海面上的景象所迷住了 上百個男人、女人、小孩都裸體衝浪 但隨著喀爾文教派的傳教士抵達 衝浪被污名化 衝浪因此變成了違法活動 更成了一種次文化
The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku. He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912. Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing. Imagine, people had never seen surfing before. Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.
現代衝浪之父是一位夏威夷人 杜克·卡哈納莫庫 (Duke Kahanamoku) 他是位傑出的游泳健將 曾於西元 1912 年 贏得奧林匹克金牌 他雖因游泳而周遊列國 但卻帶著衝浪板 向世人展示衝浪技術 試想,當時的人從未見過衝浪 突然有個遠道而來的人 竟然站在水面上滑行
He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards. Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards. Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.
他回到夏威夷 並開始製作更多的衝浪板 二戰前 你會看到又大、又笨重的木製衝浪板 二戰後 有了新製材和新技術 因此衝浪板變得更輕 更容易入手、更便宜 但它仍是一個客製的東西 是專門替某人或某個特定的衝浪地點 所量身打造的
It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper. There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.
衝浪者和製板人之間的關係 是共生共存的 有太多不同的因素 會影響到衝浪板 在水面上滑行的效能
A longboard is typically used on smaller waves. The riding has a lot of style. You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.
例如,長板特別適合小浪 駕乘的姿勢也有很多種 你可以走交叉步 讓腳趾超過板頭,然後做板頭駕乘
A shortboard will be faster. They're harder to ride, they sink under the body. Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors, and really, how I want to put myself in the water. It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity. The draw may be because water is so elusive. You can't fight it, you can't change it.
短板的速度會更快 更難駕乘,且浮力比人體還小 衝浪板設計即是在物理因素 和使用者體驗之間取得交會點 衝浪是一種表達方式 也是一項體能活動 海水是如此難以捉摸 也許這就是它吸引人之處 你不能反抗、改變大海
The best I can do is recognize what it does. The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water. The elements are changing. The wind is coming up. You have to be in symbiosis with the environment. You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you. And yet, it's so short. Five, eight, 15 seconds. It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.
唯一能做的就是辨識它的動向 浪也許會越來越大 當你在海上時,也許會突然洶湧 海上因素隨時都在改變 也許要起風了 你必須和整個環境是共生的 你得眼觀四面的同時 也要感受所有在你身邊發生的事情 然而,這過程非常短暫 只有 5、8、15 秒 雖然稍縱即逝 但是大海會呼喚你回來