Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time. Like walking on water, like flying. I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.
冲浪就像是突然加速, 同时开始滑行。 像在水上行走,像飞翔。 我觉得就好像与自然合二为一。
[Small thing. Big idea.]
【小事物,大智慧】
The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking. How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off? But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment. It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others.
冲浪板需要许多人体工程学上的思考。 我该怎么站?怎么站得稳? 但同时, 它又得兼顾水上的环境。 一个冲浪板得同时考量到 冲浪者的许多方面, 还有水流和物理学等等。
A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam, which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass. There often is also a stringer, a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger. The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front. That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is. The tail affects performance. Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference.
冲浪板的主要组成部分是泡沫, 这使冲浪板可以浮起来, 冲浪板的表面是由树脂, 环氧基树脂,有时是 玻璃纤维组成的材质。 通常冲浪板还有一根纵梁, 也就是贯穿中央的木头, 能增强冲浪板的强度。 板弧就是板头的弧度, 板弧很重要,因为它决定了 你可以冲什么样的海浪, 能冲多高的浪。 板尾则影响冲浪的表现。 不同的板尾会让 冲浪板展现不同的性能, 所以这和个人偏好比较有关。
Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii. So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked. Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it. It becomes an illegal activity. It becomes counterculture.
我们对于冲浪的了解, 可以追溯到公元 1200 年, 由大溪地人将冲浪带至夏威夷。 所以当库克船长在西元 1780 年左右到达夏威夷时, 他被海面上数百人的景象迷住了, 男女老少都裸着冲浪。 直到加尔文主义的基督教传教士抵达, 将之污名化, 冲浪因此成了违法活动。 变成一种亚文化。
The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku. He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912. Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing. Imagine, people had never seen surfing before. Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.
现代冲浪之父叫杜克 · 卡哈纳莫库 (Duke Kahanamoku)的夏威夷人。 他是一位非凡的游泳健将, 曾于 1912 年赢得奥运会金牌。 他走遍世界展示他的泳姿, 同时也将冲浪板展现于世人。 想象一下,大家从未见过冲浪运动。 但突然间,从远方来了一个人, 可以就这样站在水上划水。
He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards. Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards. Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.
他回到夏威夷, 从此当地人开始制作更多的冲浪板。 二战前, 冲浪板还是厚重巨大的木板。 二战后, 有了新材料和新科技, 因此冲浪板变得更轻, 更易携带,也更便宜, 但它仍然是一个定制物品, 一件为专人,或某个特定的冲浪点 所量身打造的物品。
It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper. There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.
冲浪手和冲浪板型设计师间 更像是共生的关系。 影响冲浪板在水中的 运动性能的 因素实在是太多了。
A longboard is typically used on smaller waves. The riding has a lot of style. You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.
比如长板特别适合小浪。 也有不同的冲浪姿势。 你可以在板上走交叉步, 脚趾超过板头,做一个板头驾乘。
A shortboard will be faster. They're harder to ride, they sink under the body. Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors, and really, how I want to put myself in the water. It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity. The draw may be because water is so elusive. You can't fight it, you can't change it.
短板则更快。 更难驾驭,浮力小。 板型设计就涉及到 这些不同的物理因素, 以及,我自己在水中 想要什么样的体验。 冲浪是一项体育运动, 也是一种自我表达。 海水是如此令人难以捉摸, 也许这就是它吸引人的地方。 你没法对抗大海,也没法改变它。
The best I can do is recognize what it does. The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water. The elements are changing. The wind is coming up. You have to be in symbiosis with the environment. You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you. And yet, it's so short. Five, eight, 15 seconds. It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.
唯一能做的就是去辨识它的动向, 一个浪可能越来越大, 当你在海上时,或许会突然汹涌。 海面因素在时刻变化着, 可能要起风了。 你必须与这些环境因素共生。 你需要观察,感受 所有在你周边发生的事情。 然而,这个过程很短暂。 只有 5、8、15 秒。 虽然转瞬即逝, 但大海依然呼唤你回来。