Riding a wave is like suddenly gaining speed and gliding at the same time. Like walking on water, like flying. I think it's really about being one with a natural phenomenon.
Jahati val je kao iznenada dobiti na brzini i kliziti u isto vrijeme. Kao hodati po vodi, kao letjeti. Mislim da se zapravo radi o stapanju s prirodnom pojavom.
[Small thing. Big idea.]
[Mala stvar. Velika ideja.]
The surfboard requires a lot of ergonomic thinking. How do I stand on it? How do I not slip off? But at the same time, it really has to work in that fluid environment. It's really considered for the rider in some areas and for water and physics in others.
Daska za surfanje zahtijeva mnogo ergonomskog razmišljanja. Kako stojim na tome? Kako da ne skliznem? Ali u isto vrijeme stvarno mora funkcionirati u tekućem okruženju. Stvarno uzima u obzir jahača u nekim područjima i vodu i fiziku u drugim.
A surfboard is made out of a core element which tends to be foam, which makes the board float, and the skin of the board is some kind of resin, epoxy, sometimes fiberglass. There often is also a stringer, a wood piece down the middle, which makes it stronger. The rocker is the curvature of the board in the front. That is important because that determines what kind of wave you will be able to take, how steep the wave is. The tail affects performance. Different tails will make the board react differently, so it's a lot about personal preference.
Daska za surfanje izrađena je od ključnog elementa što je najčešće pjena, zbog čega daska pluta, i obložena je nekom vrstom smole, epoxy smolom, ponekad staklenim vlaknom. Tu je često i uzdužna pruga, drveni komad na sredini, što je čini čvršćom. Rocker je krivina na prednjem dijelu daske. To je važno jer to određuje koju vrstu vala ćete moći podnijeti, koliko će val biti strm. Rep utječe na izvedbu. Različiti repovi će utjecati na različito reagiranje daske, tu se dosta radi o osobnom izboru.
Our understanding of surfing comes from when the Tahitians in 1200 AD brought it to Hawaii. So when James Cook arrived around 1780, he was mesmerized by hundreds of people in the water, children, women, men, surfing naked. Calvinist missionaries arrive and they're scandalized by it. It becomes an illegal activity. It becomes counterculture.
Naše razumijevanje surfanja potječe iz vremena kad su ga Tahićani 1200. po. Kr. prenijeli na Havaje. Dakle, kad je James Cook došao oko 1780., bio je očaran stotinama ljudi u vodi, djecom, ženama, muškarcima, kako surfaju goli. Dolaze kalvinistički misionari i oni su zgroženi time. To postaje ilegalna aktivnost. To postaje kontrakultura.
The father of modern surfing is a Hawaiian named Duke Kahanamoku. He is an extraordinary swimmer, wins gold at the Olympics in 1912. Goes around the world to show his swimming but brings surfboards and demonstrates surfing. Imagine, people had never seen surfing before. Suddenly, some person from a faraway place is standing on water, riding on water.
Otac modernog surfanja je Havajćanin imena Duke Kahanamoku. Izvanredan je plivač, osvaja zlato na Olimpijskim igrama 1912. Obilazi svijet da pokaže svoje plivanje, ali nosi daske za surfanje i demonstrira surfanje. Zamislite, ljudi nikad prije nisu vidjeli surfanje. Odjednom, neka osoba iz dalekog mjesta stoji na vodi, jaše na vodi.
He comes back to Hawaii, and they start to make more boards. Pre-Second World War, you're still looking at big, heavy wood boards. Post-Second World War, new materials and new technologies become available, and those make the board lighter, more accessible, cheaper, but it continues to be a custom object, something that is made specifically for a person or for a certain spot.
Vrati se na Havaje i počnu proizvoditi više daski. Prije Drugog svjetskog rata još uvijek gledate velike, teške, drvene daske. Nakon Drugog svjetskog rata novi materijali i nove tehnologije postaju dostupne i te čine daske lakšima, dostupnijima, jeftinijima, ali je i dalje predmet po mjeri, nešto što je napravljeno posebno za osobu ili za određeno mjesto.
It's a very symbiotic relationship between surfer and shaper. There's so many different criteria that affect the physics of how that surfboard is moving in water.
To je vrlo simbiozan odnos između surfera i oblikovatelja. Postoji mnogo različitih kriterija koji utječu na fiziku toga kako se daska za surfanje kreće u vodi.
A longboard is typically used on smaller waves. The riding has a lot of style. You can walk the board, put your toes over it, do a hang ten.
Dugačka daska obično se koristi na manjim valovima. Jahanje ima mnogo stila. Možete hodati po dasci, staviti prste preko nje, držati se tamo.
A shortboard will be faster. They're harder to ride, they sink under the body. Board design comes at the intersection between those physical factors, and really, how I want to put myself in the water. It's an expression as much as it is a physical activity. The draw may be because water is so elusive. You can't fight it, you can't change it.
Kratka daska će biti brža. Teže su za jahanje, potonu pod tijelom. Dizajn daske dolazi na sjecište između tih fizičkih čimbenika i zapravo, kako se želim postaviti u vodi. To je izražavanje koliko je i fizička aktivnost. Do izjednačavanja dolazi jer je voda tako neuhvatljiva. Ne možete se boriti protiv nje, ne možete je promijeniti.
The best I can do is recognize what it does. The surf may be big and getting bigger and surging while you're in the water. The elements are changing. The wind is coming up. You have to be in symbiosis with the environment. You need to look and feel for everything that's happening around you. And yet, it's so short. Five, eight, 15 seconds. It's fleeting, but you have to go back to it.
Najbolje što mogu je prepoznati što čini. Val može biti velik i postajati većim i naglo se povećati dok ste u vodi. Elementi se mijenjaju. Vjetar dolazi. Morate biti u simbiozi s okolinom. Morate gledati i osjećati sve što se događa oko vas. A ipak, traje tako kratko. Pet, osam, 15 sekundi. Brz je, ali morate mu se vratiti.