It is often said that the stories of history are written by its victors, but if this is true, what becomes of the downtrodden, and how can they ever hope to aspire for something greater if they are never told the stories of their own glorious pasts?
Često se kaže da priče iz istorije pišu pobednici, ali ukoliko je ovo istina, šta se dešava sa ugnjetavanima i kako oni mogu da se nadaju da teže ka nečemu većem ukoliko im nisu pričali priče o njihovoj sopstvenoj slavnoj prošlosti?
Ostensibly, I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing, but within the folds of ancient fabrics and modern textiles, I have found a higher calling. Through my work as a designer, I've discovered the importance of providing representation for the marginalized members of our society, and the importance of telling the most vulnerable among us that they no longer have to compromise themselves just so they can fit in with an uncompromising majority. It turns out that fashion, a discipline many of us consider to be trivial, can actually be a powerful tool for dismantling bias and bolstering the self-images of underrepresented populations.
Prividno stojim ispred vas samo kao izrađivač odeće, ali u naborima, drevnim materijalima i modernom tekstilu ja sam našao više zvanje. Putem mog rada kao dizajnera, otkrio sam važnost da omogućim predstavljanje za marginalizovane članove našeg društva i važnost pričanja i najosetljivijima među nama da više ne moraju da kompromituju sebe samo da bi se uklopili u beskompromisnu većinu. Ispada da moda, disciplina za koju mnogi od nas smatraju da je trivijalna, može zapravo biti moćan alat za raskrinkavanje pristrasnosti i poboljšanja sopstvene slike nedovoljno zastupljenih populacija.
My interest in using design as a vehicle for social change happens to be a personal one. As a Nigerian American, I know how easily the term "African" can slip from being an ordinary geographic descriptor to becoming a pejorative. For those of us from this beautiful continent, to be African is to be inspired by culture and to be filled with undying hope for the future. So in an attempt to shift the misguided perceptions that many have about the place of my birth, I use design as a means to tell stories, stories about joy, stories about triumph, stories about perseverance all throughout the African diaspora.
Moje interesovanje za korišćenje dizajna kao vozila za društvenu promenu slučajno je lične prirode. Kao nigerijski Amerikanac, znam kako lako termin „afrički“ može skliznuti od toga da je uobičajen geografski opisni termin do toga da postane pogrdan. Za one među nama sa ovog prelepog kontinenta, biti Afrikanac znači biti inspirisan kulturom i biti ispunjen besmrtnom nadom za budućnost. Pa, u pokušaju da promenim pogrešne percepcije koje mnogi imaju o mestu mog rođenja, koristim dizajn kao sredstvo da pričam priče, priče o radosti, priče o trijumfu, priče o istrajnosti svuda širom afričke dijaspore.
I tell these stories as a concerted effort to correct the historical record, because, no matter where any of us is from, each of us has been touched by the complicated histories that brought our families to a foreign land. These histories shape the way we view the world, and they mold the biases we carry around with us. To combat these biases, my work draws aesthetics from different parts of the globe and crafts a narrative about the importance of fighting for inclusivity. By refashioning images from classic European art and marrying them with African aesthetics, I am able to recast people of color in roles of prominence, providing them with a degree of dignity they didn't have in earlier times. This approach subverts the historically accepted narrative of African inferiority, and it serves as inspiration for people of color who have grown wary of seeing themselves depicted without sophistication and without grace.
Pričam ove priče kao objedinjeni napor da ispravim istorijski zapis, zato što, bez obzira na to odakle je bilo ko od nas, svakog od nas su dotakle komplikovane istorije koje su dovele naše porodice u stranu zemlju. Ove istorije oblikuju način na koji vidimo svet i one su kalupi pristrasnosti koje nosimo sa sobom. Kako bi pobedio te pristrasnosti, moj rad privlači estetiku iz različitih delova sveta i gradi narativ o važnosti borbe za inkluziju. Promenom slika iz klasične evropske umetnosti i njihovim venčanjem sa afričkom estetikom, uspeo sam da spojim obojene ljude sa uglednim ulogama, pruživši im stepen dostojanstva koje oni nisu imali ranije. Ovaj pristup podriva istorijski prihvaćene priče o afričkoj inferiornosti i služi kao inspiracija obojenim ljudima kojima je dosta da viđaju sebe prikazane bez sofisticiranosti i bez gracioznosti.
Each of these culture-bending tapestries becomes a tailored garment or a silk scarf, like the one I am very coincidentally wearing right now.
Svaka od ovih tapiserija koja menja kulturu postaje skrojena odeća ili svileni šal, nalik ovom koji ja sasvim slučajno nosim upravo sada.
(Laughter)
(Smeh)
And even when surrounded in a structure of European classicism, these narratives boldly extoll the merits of African empowerment. In this way, the tools of the masters become masterworks to celebrate those who were once subservient.
Čak i kada smo okruženi strukturom evropskog klasicizma, ove priče hrabro veličaju zasluge afričkog osnaživanja. Na ovaj način, alat u rukama majstora postaje majstorski rad kako bi slavio one koji su nekada bili podređeni.
This metaphor extends beyond the realm of art and out into the real world. Whether worn by refugees or world-changing entrepreneurs, when people are allowed the freedom to present themselves in a manner that celebrates their own unique identities, a magical thing happens. We stand taller. We're more proud and self-aware because we're presenting our true, authentic selves. And those of us who are around them in turn become more educated, more open and more tolerant of their different points of view. In this way, the clothes that we wear can be a great illustration of diplomatic soft power. The clothes that we wear can serve as bridges between our seemingly disparate cultures.
Ova metafora se pruža širom oblasti umetnosti i izlazi u stvaran svet. Bilo da ih nose izbeglice ili preduzetnici koji menjaju svet, kada je ljudima dozvoljena sloboda da predstavljaju sebe na način koji slavi njihove sopstvene jedinstvene identitete, magična stvar se dešava. Mi ponosno stojimo. Ponosniji smo i samosvesniji zato što predstavljamo naše istinsko, autentično biće. I oni među nama koji se nalaze oko njih zauzvrat postaju obrazovaniji, otvoreniji i tolerantniji prema njihovim drugačijim tačkama gledišta. Na ovaj način, odeća koju nosimo može biti velika ilustracija diplomatske blage moći. Odeća koju nosimo može nam poslužiti kao most između naših naoko različitih kultura.
And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand before you as a mere maker of clothing. But my work has always been about more than fashion. It has become my purpose to rewrite the cultural narratives so that people of color can be seen in a new and nuanced light, and so that we, the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa, can traverse the globe while carrying ourselves with pride.
I tako, da, prividno stojim ispred vas kao izrađivač odeće. Ali moj rad je uvek bio nešto više od mode. Moja svrha je postala prepravljanje kulturoloških narativa tako da obojeni ljudi mogu biti viđeni pod novim i nijansiranim svetlom i da mi, ponosna deca podsaharske Afrike, možemo preći svet ponosni na sebe.
It was indeed true that the stories of history were told by its old victors, but I am of a new generation. My work speaks for those who will no longer let their futures be dictated by a troubled past. Today, we stand ready to tell our own stories without compromise, without apologies. But the question still remains: are you prepared for what you are about to hear? I hope you are, because we are coming regardless.
Zaista je istinito da priče iz istorije pričaju njeni pobednici, ali ja sam predstavnik nove generacije. Moj rad govori za one koji neće više dozvoliti da njihovu budućnost diktira problematična prošlost. Danas, stojimo spremni da pričamo naše sopstvene priče bez kompromisa, bez izvinjenja. Ali pitanje i dalje ostaje: da li ste spremni za ono što ćete da čujete? Nadam se da jeste, zato što mi dolazimo bez obzira na to.
(Applause)
(Aplauz)