You might be wondering why I'm wearing sunglasses, and one answer to that is, because I'm here to talk about glamour. So, we all think we know what glamour is. Here it is. It's glamorous movie stars, like Marlene Dietrich. And it comes in a male form, too -- very glamorous. Not only can he shoot, drive, drink -- you know, he drinks wine, there actually is a little wine in there -- and of course, always wears a tuxedo. But I think that glamour actually has a much broader meaning -- one that is true for the movie stars and the fictional characters, but also comes in other forms.
Možda se pitate zašto nosim naočare za sunce, a jedan od odgovora na to je da sam ovde da govorim o glamuru. Svi mislimo da znamo šta je glamur. Evo ga. To su glamurozne filmske zvezde, poput Marlen Ditrih. Postoji i u muškom obličju; vrlo je glamurozan. Ne samo da može da puca, vozi, pije - znate, on pije vino, tu zapravo ima malo vina - i naravno, uvek nosi smoking. Međutim, ja smatram da glamur u stvari ima mnogo šire značenje, jedno koje važi za filmske zvezde i izmišljene likove, ali takođe se javlja i u drugim oblicima.
A magazine? Well, it's certainly not this one. This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips. Sex tips are not glamorous. And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm, is not glamorous either. But there is a glamour of industry. This is Margaret Bourke-White's -- one of her pictures she did. Fantastic, glamorous pictures of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places. And there's the mythic glamour of the garage entrepreneur. This is the Hewlett-Packard garage. We know everyone who starts a business in a garage ends up founding Hewlett-Packard. There's the glamour of physics. What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe, grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene -- he has other kinds of glamour.
Časopis? Pa, sigurno nije ovaj. Ovo je najmanje glamurozan časopis na trafici; sve sami saveti o seksu. Saveti vezani za seks nisu glamurozni. A ni Dru Barimur, pored njenog divnog šarma, nije glamurozna. Međutim, postoji glamur industrije. Ovo je jedna od slika koju je uradila Margaret Burk-Vajt. Fantastične, glamurozne slike čeličana, fabrika hartije i raznih glamuroznih industrijskih mesta. Tu je i mitski glamur preduzetnika u garaži. Ovo je Hjulet-Pakard garaža. Znamo da svako ko započne posao u garaži na kraju zasnuje Hjulet-Pakard. Postoji glamur fizike. Šta može biti glamuroznije od razumevanja čitavog univerzuma, velikog sjedinjenja? Uzgred, pomaže ako ste Brajan Grin; on poseduje druge vrste glamura.
And there is, of course, this glamour. This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space -- and not the alien-style glamour, but the nice, clean, early '60s version. So what do we mean by glamour? Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means is you can look in the dictionary. And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary, in this case the 1913 dictionary. Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning, and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it. You had "a" glamour. It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour." Glamour was a literal magic spell. Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today, but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies and to some extent, Celtic magic. And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century, it started to take on this other kind of deception -- this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with, an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified. But still, glamour is an illusion. Glamour is a magic spell. And there's something dangerous about glamour throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell on you, it was not in your self-interest -- it was to get you to act against your interest.
Naravno, postoji i ovaj glamur. Ovo je vrlo, vrlo glamurozno - glamur svemira, i to ne glamur u stilu vanzemaljaca, već fina, čista verzija iz ranih '60-ih godina. Dakle, šta podrazumevamo pod glamurom? Pa, jedna od stvari koju možete učiniti ako hoćete da znate šta glamur znači je da ga potražite u rečniku. Zapravo, mnogo više pomaže ako potražite u vrlo starom rečniku, u ovom slučaju rečniku iz 1913. godine, jer je glamur vekovima imao vrlo specifično značenje i ta reč je zapravo različito korišćena u odnosu na to kako je mi zamišljamo. Tada ste imali određeni glamur. Nije to bio glamur kao osobina; „glamur bacate“. Glamur je bukvalno bio magija. Ne u metaforičnom smislu koji koristimo danas, već doslovno čarolija vezana za veštice i Cigane, a do izvesne mere i za keltsku magiju. Tokom godina, uoči preokreta 20. veka, počeo je da poprima ovo druge obličje varke, tu definiciju za bilo kakvo površno interesovanje ili povezanost sa objektom kroz koje on deluje varljivo uveličano i glorifikovano. Ipak, glamur je iluzija. Glamur je začaranost. Nešto opasno u vezi sa glamurom provlači se kroz veći deo istorije. Kada veštice bace magične čini na vas, to nije u vašem interesu, već da vas nateraju da postupate protiv svojih interesa.
Well of course, in the 20th century, glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood. And this is Hedy Lamarr. Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous, all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter) But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy -- about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it. There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement associated with creating this Hollywood glamour. There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts. You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up. So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star. And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time -- they call them false color.
Naravno, u 20. veku, glamur je dobio ovo drugačije značenje koje se vezuje za Holivud. Ovo je Hedi Lamar. Hedi Lamar je rekla: „Svako može izgledati glamurozno. Sve što treba da radite je da sedite i izgledate glupo.“ (Smeh) Međutim, zapravo, uz dužno poštovanje prema Hedi - o kojoj ćemo više čuti kasnije - to uključuje mnogo više stvari. Došlo je do ogromne količine tehničkih dostignuća vezanih za stvaranje ovog holivudskog glamura. Pojavilo se mnoštvo retušera, stručnjaka za osvetljenje i šminku. Možete otići u muzej holivudske istorije u Holivudu i videti Maks Faktorove specijalne sobe koje je farbao različitim bojama u zavisnosti od tena zvezde koju je trebalo da šminka. Dakle, imate taj izuzetno stilizovani portret nečega što nije sasvim sa ove planete - to je portret zvezde. Zapravo, mi stalno viđamo glamurizovane fotografije zvezda. Nazivaju ih lažne boje.
Glamour is a form of falsification, but falsification to achieve a particular purpose. It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film. And it involves a great deal of technique. It's not -- glamour is not something -- you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are. Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous. There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization," and it's not just the case for people. Glamour doesn't have to be people. Architectural photography -- Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration, took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House. Architectural photography is extremely glamorous. It puts you into this special, special world. This is Alex Ross's comic book art, which appears to be extremely realistic, as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art. Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.
Glamur je oblik falsifikovanja, ali falsifikovanja da bi se postigla određena svrha. Ona može biti da se zvezda obasja ili možda da se proda film. To uključuje mnogo tehnike. Glamur nije nešto što... ne probudite se ujutru glamurozni. Ko god da ste. Čak ni Nikol Kidman se ne probudi ujutru glamurozna. Tu je proces „idealizacije, veličanja i dramatizacije“, a to ne važi samo za ljude. Glamur ne mora da podrazumeva ljude. Arhitekturna fotografija - Džulijus Šulman, koji je govorio o preobražavanju, uslikao je ovu fenomenalnu, čuvenu sliku Kaufmanove kuće. Arhitekturna fotografija je izuzetno glamurozna. Odvodi vas u neki posebni svet. Ovo je umetnost stripova Aleksa Rosa, koja deluje veoma realistično. Kao deo svog stila, daje vam neku vrstu realizma u svojoj umetnosti stripa, osim što svetlo ne može biti ovakvo u stvarnom svetu.
When you stack people in rows, the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground -- but not in the world of glamour. What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb in the table of contents of New York magazine, which was telling us that glamour is back -- glamour is all about transcending the everyday. And I think that that's starting to get at what the core that combines all sorts of glamour is. This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia. And I don't know who she is either, but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel. It's a very glamorous portrait. Why is it glamorous? It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful -- but that does not make you glamorous, that only makes you beautiful. She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent, and those are the central qualities of glamour. You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward. She's not looking away from you exactly, but you have to mentally imagine her world. She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture. Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous. That's glamour: that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.
Kada poređate ljude u redove, oni u pozadini deluju manje od onih u prvom planu, ali ne i u svetu glamura. U čemu se sastoji glamur - ovo sam preuzela iz sažetog prikaza u sadržaju časopisa Njujork, koji nam je saopštavao da se glamur vratio - glamur se svodi na prevazilaženje svakodnevnog. Mislim da to počinje da dopire do suštine koja spaja sve vrste definicija glamura. Ovo je potret svete Apolonije koji je naslikao Filipino Lipi 1543. godine. Ne znam ni ko je ona, ali ovo je za 16. vek ekvivalentno supermodelu. To je vrlo glamurozni portret. Zašto je glamurozan? Glamurozan je, pre svega, zato što je ona prelepa, ali to vas ne čini glamuroznim, to vas samo čini lepim. Ona je graciozna, misteriozna i uzvišena, a to su glavna svojstva glamura. Ne vidite joj oči; gledaju na dole. Pogled joj baš i ne skreće od vas, ali morate u glavi da zamislite njen svet. Podstiče vas na razmišljanje o tom višem svetu kome ona pripada, gde može biti sasvim spokojna dok drži gvozdeni instrument kojim su je mučili do smrti. „Stradanje Hristovo“ Mela Gibsona - to nije glamurozno. Ovo jeste glamur - Mikelanđelova „Pjeta“ na kojoj je Marija istih godina kao Isus i oboje su izvanredno srećni i zadovoljni.
Glamour invites us to live in a different world. It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant -- that's why, often in these glamour shots, the person is not looking at the audience, it's why sunglasses are glamorous -- but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person. In some sense, there has to be something like us. So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous. God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent, omniscient -- too far above us. And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms. As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people, but it has to have this transcendent quality. What is it about Superman? Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous, one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.
Glamur nas poziva da živimo u drugačijem svetu. Istovremeno mora biti misteriozan, pomalo udaljen - zato često na ovim glamuroznim slikama osoba ne gleda u publiku, zato su naočare za sunce glamurozne - ali i ne tako udaljene od nas da se ne možemo poistovetiti sa osobom. Na neki način, tu mora da postoji nešto slično nama. Stoga, kako ja kažem, u religioznoj umetnosti, Bog nije glamurozan. Bog ne može biti glamurozan jer je Bog svemoćan, sveznajuć - previše iznad nas. Ipak, u religijskoj umetnosti videćete da će sveci ili Devica Marija često biti prikazani - ne uvek - u glamuroznom obličju. Kao što sam rekla ranije, glamur se ne mora odnositi na ljude, ali mora da ima to transcendentno svojstvo. Šta je to u vezi sa Supermenom? Pored stila Aleksa Rosa, koji je veoma glamurozan, jedna stvar vezana za Supermena je da čini da verujete da čovek može da leti.
Glamour is all about transcending this world and getting to an idealized, perfect place. And this is one reason that modes of transportation tend to be extremely glamorous. The less experience we have with them, the more glamorous they are. So you can do a glamorized picture of a car, but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic. You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside. The notion is that it's going to transport you, and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane, who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough. The story is about where you're arriving, or thinking about where you're arriving. And this sense of being transported is one reason that we have glamour styling. This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous because we associate it with movies of that period, but because, in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.
Glamur podrazumeva prevazilaženje ovog sveta i dolaženje do idealizovanog, savršenog mesta. To je jedan od razloga zbog kojeg oblici prevoza mogu biti izuzetno glamurozni. Što manje iskustva imamo sa njima, utoliko su glamurozniji. Tako možete napraviti glamuroznu sliku automobila, ali ne možete glamuroznu sliku saobraćaja. Možete napraviti glamuroznu sliku aviona, ali ne unutrašnjosti. Ideja je u tome da će vas prevoziti, a priča nije o nekom tipu ispred vas u avionu, koji ima nepristojnog klinca ili jak kašalj. Priča je o tome gde stižete ili o razmišljanju o tome gde stižete. Prevoženje u ovom smislu je jedan od razloga zbog kojih imamo glamurozni stil. Ova vrsta aerodinamičnog stila nije glamurozna samo zato jer ga povezujemo sa filmovima iz tog perioda, već zato što nas, svojom aerodinamičnošću, odvozi iz svakodnevnice.
The same thing -- arches are very glamorous. Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous. Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous. I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous because, to me, it captures the whole promise of the academic contemplative life -- but maybe that's because I went to Princeton. Anyway, skylines are super glamorous, city streets -- not so glamorous. You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality. The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous. There are few things more glamorous than the horizon -- except, possibly, multiple horizons. Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat -- you just see the possibilities. In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier." There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today, after a few centuries.
Ista stvar - svodovi su veoma glamurozni. Svodovi sa obojenim staklom - još glamurozniji. Stepenice koje se krivudavo udaljavaju od vas su glamurozne. Nekako smatram ovu sliku stepenica naročito glamuroznom jer, prema mom mišljenju, ona oslikava čitavo to obećanje akademskog života u razmišljanju, ali možda je to zato što sam išla na Prinston. Uglavnom, gradski pejzaži su izuzetno glamurozni, a gradske ulice baš i nisu glamurozne. Znate, kad zaista stignete u ovaj grad, to postaje stvarnost. Horizont i otvoreni put su vrlo, vrlo glamurozni. Malo je glamuroznijih stvari od horizonta, osim, možda, više horizonata. Naravno, ovde ne osećate hladnoću niti vrućinu; vidite samo mogućnosti. Da bi vam glamur pošao za rukom, potrebno vam je renesansno svojstvo sprecature, a to je termin kojeg je skovao Kastiljone u svojoj knjizi „Knjiga o dvoraninu“. Evo neglamurozne verzije onoga kako ona izgleda danas,
And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art.
nekoliko vekova kasnije.
It makes things look effortless. You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress -- she just looks completely natural. And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies, how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue. Of course, they covered that with make-up, because Lara Croft did all those same stunts -- but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura. "To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort": And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour. Glamour is about editing. How do you create the sense of transcendence, the sense of evoking a perfect world? The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this -- I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world. We don't tell you all the grubby details.
Sprecatura je umetnost koja skriva umetnost. Čini da stvari izgledaju kao da u njih nije uložen trud. Ne razmišljate o tome kako se Nikol Kidman snalazi u toj haljini; ona izgleda sasvim prirodno. Sećam se da sam čitala, nakon filmova o Lari Kroft, kako bi Anđelina Džoli došla kući potpuno plava od modrica. Naravno, to su pokrivali šminkom, jer je Lara Kroft izvodila iste te akrobacije, ali ona ne dobija modrice, jer ima sprecaturu. „Sakriti umetnost i učiniti da sve što je urađeno ili rečeno izgleda kao da je bez napora.“ Ovo je jedan od ključnih aspekata glamura. Glamur je vezan za uređivanje. Kako da stvorite taj utisak transcedentnosti, utisak evociranja savršenog sveta? Utisak toga da život može biti bolji, mogu se prikloniti ovome - mogu biti savršena osoba, mogu se priključiti tom savršenom svetu. Nećemo vam reći sve neugledne detalje.
Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year. This is underneath Jeff's desk. This is what the real world of computers, lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like. But if you look in a catalog -- particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home -- it looks like this. There are no cords. Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail -- you can usually figure out where they hid the cord. But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp, you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter) And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras, you don't get to live in the world without cords. You have to have mystery and you have to have grace. And there she is -- Grace. This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever. Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window," the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world? And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.
Ovo mi je ljubazno pozajmio Džef Bezos, od prošle godine. Ovo se nalazi ispod Džefovog stola. Ovako izgleda stvarni svet kompjutera, lampi, raznih elektronskih uređaja. Međutim, ako pogledate katalog - naročito katalog modernih, prelepih predmeta za vaš dom, to izgleda ovako. Nema kablova. Pogledajte sledeći put kada dobijete ove kataloge poštom - obično možete da otkrijete gde su sakrili kabl. Međutim, uvek postoji ta iluzija da, ako kupite ovu lampu, živećete u svetu bez kablova. (Smeh) Isto važi i u slučaju ako kupite ovaj laptop ili ovaj kompjuter, ali čak i u ovo bežično doba, ne možete živeti u svetu bez kablova. Morate imati misterioznost i gracioznost. Evo i nje - Grejs. Ovo je najglamuroznija slika ikada, prema mom mišljenju. Deo toga je što, u filmu „Prozor u dvorište“, postavlja se pitanje da li je ona previše glamurozna da bi živela u njegovom svetu? Odgovor je ne, ali naravno, to je samo film.
Here's Hedy Lamarr again. And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time. Translucence is glamorous -- that's why all these people wear pearls. It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent -- not transparent, not opaque. It invites us into the world but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture. And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person, maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot, because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous. It has that sense of going up and away, and yet you never think about how you would really trip if you were -- particularly going down. And of course glass block has that sense of translucence. So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure but glamour's really partly about meaning. All individuals and all cultures have ideals that cannot possibly be realized in reality.
Evo ponovo Hedi Lamar. Znate, ovaj način prekrivanja glave je izuzetno glamurozan jer, kao i naočare za sunce, istovremeno sakriva i otkriva. Prozračnost je glamurozna - zato svi ti ljudi nose perle. Zato su proizvodi od stakla glamurozni. Glamur je prozračan - ne providan, ne taman. On nas poziva u svet, ali nam ne daje potpuno jasnu sliku. Mislim da, ako je Grejs Keli najglamuroznija osoba, možda je spiralno stepenište sa staklenim kockama najglamuroznija slika enterijera, jer je spiralno stepenište izuzetno glamurozno. Daje utisak da ide gore i udaljava se, a ipak nikada ne pomišljate o tome kako biste zaista pali, naročito pri silaženju. Naravno, staklene kocke daju taj utisak prozračnosti. Dakle, ova sesija treba da bude o čistom zadovoljstvu, ali glamur se delom odnosi na značenje. Svi pojedinci i sve kulture imaju ideale koje je nemoguće ostvariti u realnosti.
They have contradictions, they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other -- whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose to our lives as cultures and as individuals. And the way we deal with that is we displace them -- we put them into a golden world, an imagined world, an age of heroes, the world to come. And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object. The white picket fence, the perfect house. The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen. You know, you buy that Viking range, this is what your kitchen will look like. The perfect love life -- symbolized by the perfect necklace, the perfect diamond ring. The perfect getaway in your perfect car. This is an interior design firm that is literally called Utopia. The perfect office -- again, no cords, as far as I can tell. And certainly, no, it doesn't look a thing like my office. I mean, there's no paper on the desk. We want this golden world. And some people get rich enough, and if they have their ideals -- in a sort of domestic sense, they get to acquire their perfect world.
Imaju protivrečnosti, podržavaju principe koji se međusobno ne podudaraju - šta god da je u pitanju, a ipak, ti ideali daju značenje i svrhu našim životima kao kulturama i pojedincima. Sa tim izlazimo na kraj tako što ih premeštamo, smeštamo ih u zlatni svet, izmišljeni svet, doba heroja, svet koji će tek uslediti. A u životu pojedinca, često to vezujemo za neke predmete. Bela drvena ograda, savršena kuća, savršena kuhinja - nema računa na radnoj površini u savršenoj kuhinji. Ako kupite taj aparat „Vikinškog ranga“, ovako će vam izgledati kuhinja. Savršen ljubavni život, simbolizovan savršenom ogrlicom, savršenim dijamantskim prstenom. Savršeno bekstvo u vašem savršenom automobilu. Ovo je firma za unutrašnji dizajn koja se doslovno zove Utopija. Savršena kancelarija - ponovo, nema žica, bar kako mi se čini. Naravno, nimalo ne izgleda kao moja kancelarija. Mislim, nema papira na stolu. Želimo ovaj zlatni svet. Neki ljudi se dovoljno obogate, i ako imaju svoje ideale u nekakvom domaćem smislu, imaju mogućnost da steknu svoj savršen svet.
Dean Koontz built this fabulous home theater, which is -- I don't think accidentally -- in Art Deco style. That symbolizes this sense of being safe and at home. This is not always good, because what is your perfect world? What is your ideal, and also, what has been edited out? Is it something important? "The Matrix" is a movie that is all about glamour. I could do a whole talk on "The Matrix" and glamour. It was criticized for glamorizing violence, because, look -- sunglasses and those long coats, and, of course, they could walk up walls and do all these kinds of things that are impossible in the real world. This is another Margaret Bourke-White photo. This is from Soviet Union. Attractive. I mean, look how happy the people are, and good-looking too. You know, we're marching toward Utopia.
Din Kunc je sagradio ovaj fantastični kućni bioskop, koji je, ne bih rekla slučajno, u stilu art deko. Ovo simbolizuje osećaj da ste bezbedni i da ste kod kuće. To nije uvek dobro, jer koji je vaš savršeni svet? Šta je vaš ideal i šta je izbačeno? Da li je to nešto važno? „Matriks“ je film koji je u potpunosti vezan za glamur. Mogla bih da održim ceo govor vezan za „Matriks“ i glamur. Kritikovali su ga zbog glamurizovanja nasilja, jer, vidite, naočare za sunce i ti dugački kaputi i, naravno, mogli su da šetaju po zidovima i rade najrazličitije stvari koje su nemoguće u stvarnom svetu. Evo još jedne fotografije Margaret Burk-Vajt. Ovo je iz Sovjetskog Saveza. Privlačno. Mislim, vidite kako su ovi ljudi srećni, a i lepo izgledaju. Znate, koračamo ka Utopiji.
I'm not a fan of PETA, but I think this is a great ad. Because what they're doing is they're saying, your coat's not so glamorous, what's been edited out is something important. But actually, what's even more important than remembering what's been edited out is thinking, are the ideals good? Because glamour can be very totalitarian and deceptive. And it's not just a matter of glamorizing cleaning your floor. This is from "Triumph Of The Will" -- brilliant editing to cut together things. There's a glamour shot. National Socialism is all about glamour. It was a very aesthetic ideology. It was all about cleaning up Germany, and the West, and the world, and ridding it of anything unglamorous. So glamour can be dangerous.
Nisam obožavatelj organizacije PETA, ali mislim da je ovo sjajna reklama, jer oni ovime poručuju: vaša bunda nije tako glamurozna, iz toga je izbačeno nešto vrlo važno. Zapravo, ono što je još važnije od podsećanja na to što je izbačeno jeste razmišljanje o tome jesu li ideali dobri, jer glamur može biti vrlo totalitaran i obmanjujuć. Ne radi se samo o glamurizovanju čišćenja vašeg poda. Ovo je iz „Trijumfa volje“ - briljantno uređeno tako da se stvari uklope. Evo glamurozne fotografije. U nacionalnom socijalizmu se sve vrti oko glamura. Bila je to vrlo estetska ideologia. Odnosila se na čišćenje Nemačke, zapada i sveta i njihovo oslobađanje od svega neglamuroznog. Dakle, glamur može biti opasan.
I think glamour has a genuine appeal, has a genuine value. I'm not against glamour. But there's a kind of wonder in the stuff that gets edited away in the cords of life. And there is both a way to avoid the dangers of glamour and a way to broaden your appreciation of it. And that's to take Isaac Mizrahi's advice and confront the manipulation of it all, and sort of admit that manipulation is something that we enjoy, but also enjoy how it happens. And here's Hedy Lamarr. She's very glamorous but, you know, she invented spread-spectrum technology. So she's even more glamorous if you know that she really wasn't stupid, even though she thought she could look stupid.
Mislim da glamur ima istinsku draž, ima istinsku vrednost. Nisam protiv glamura. Ipak, postoji neka znatiželja u stvarima koje bivaju odbačene u životnom tkanju. Ujedno postoji način da se izbegnu opasnosti glamura i način da se proširi vaše uvažavanje njega, a to je da prihvatite savet Ajzaka Mizrahija i suočite se sa manipulacijom u svemu tome i na neki način priznate da je manipulacija nešto u čemu uživamo, ali takođe uživamo i u načinu na koji se dešava. Evo i Hedi Lamar. Vrlo je glamurozna, ali, znate, ona je izumela tehnologiju raširenog spektra. Čak je i glamuroznija ako znate da zaista nije bila glupa,
David Hockney talks about how the appreciation of this
iako je mislila da može izgledati glupo.
very glamorous painting is heightened if you think about the fact that it takes two weeks to paint this splash, which only took a fraction of a second to happen. There is a book out in the bookstore -- it's called "Symphony In Steel," and it's about the stuff that's hidden under the skin of the Disney Center. And that has a fascination. It's not necessarily glamorous, but unveiling the glamour has an appeal. There's a wonderful book called "Crowns" that's all these glamour pictures of black women in their church hats. And there's a quote from one of these women, and she talks about, "As a little girl, I'd admire women at church with beautiful hats. They looked like beautiful dolls, like they'd just stepped out of a magazine. But I also knew how hard they worked all week. Sometimes under those hats there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow." And, actually, you get more appreciation for glamour when you realize what went into creating it. Thank you.
Dejvid Hokni govori o tome kako uvažavanje ove glamurozne slike pojačava ako pomislite na činjenicu da je potrebno dve nedelje da se naslika ovo prskanje vode, za koje je trebalo samo delić sekunde da bi se dogodilo. Postoji knjiga u knjižarama koja se zove „Čelična simfornija“, a bavi se stvarima koje su skrivene ispod površine Diznijevog centra, a to sa sobom nosi fascinaciju. Nije nužno glamurozno, ali razotkrivanje glamura ima draž. Postoji sjajna knjiga pod nazivom „Krune“. Tu su sve ove glamurozne slike crnkinja sa njihovim šeširima za crkvu. Tu stoji citat jedne od ovih žena, a ona govori: „Kao devojčica, divila sam se ženama u crkvi sa prelepim šeširima. Izgledale su kao prelepe lutke, kao da su upravo izašle iz časopisa. Međutim, isto tako sam znala koliko su naporno radile cele nedelje. Ponekad se ispod tih šešira nalazi puno radosti i puno tuge.“ Zapravo, više cenite glamur kada shvatite šta je sve uloženo u njegovo stvaranje. Hvala vam.