The hoodie is an amazing object. It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of, because they work so well that they're part of our lives. We call them "humble masterpieces."
兜帽上衣是樣很了不起的東西。 它是種不受時間影響的東西, 我們幾乎不會去思考它, 因為它被用得很好, 已經是我們生活的一部分。 我們稱它為「謙虛的大作」。
[Small thing.] [Big idea.]
〔小東西。〕 〔大點子。〕
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
〔保拉安特那利談兜帽上衣〕
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so -- it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons. The earliest ones that we can trace are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome. The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached, so therefore, "hoodies." Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers. And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner. So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
兜帽上衣一直是── 即使以前沒有被這麼稱呼── 一直是歷史上的代表性象徵, 理由有好的也有不好的。 我們能追溯到最早的兜帽上衣, 是在古希臘和古羅馬的時候。 在中世紀,會看到很多僧侶 穿著像斗篷一樣的衣服, 上面連著兜帽, 因此,叫做「兜帽上衣」。 十七世紀的女性會穿兜帽上衣, 目的是在去見愛人時 隱藏自己的面孔。 當然,還有傳奇,還有幻想。 兜帽上衣的形象和死神連結在一起。 兜帽上衣的形象和 行刑者連結在一起。 兜帽上衣也有黑暗的一面。
The modern incarnation of the hoodie -- a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey, that has a hood attached with a drawstring; sometimes it has a marsupial pocket -- was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company. Now it's called Champion. It was meant to keep athletes warm. Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere. And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders, and it takes on this kind of youth street culture. It was, at the same time, super-comfortable, perfect for the streets and also had that added value of anonymity when you needed it. And then we have Mark Zuckerberg, who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople. But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed. If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard. The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
到了現代的兜帽上衣, 通常是棉質針織的衣服, 上面連著有拉繩的兜帽; 有時前方會有袋鼠口袋── 這是三〇年代由 Knickerbocker 織品公司推出的, 就是現在的 Champion 運動服公司。 它的目的是要幫運動員保暖。 當然,因為這種衣服功能好又舒服, 它很快就被各地的工匠採用。 接著,在八〇年代, 穿兜帽上衣的人還包括 跳嘻哈和街舞的男孩、玩滑板的人, 它變成了年輕街頭文化的一種流行。 同時,它也超舒服好穿, 很適合在街上穿, 它還有匿名的附加價值, 若你需要的話。 接著有馬克祖克柏, 他公然反對在大會議上 商業人士要盛裝打扮的習俗。 有趣的是,這也是展現出權力 已經轉換了的一種方式。 若你穿兩件式西裝,你可能是保鑣。 真正有權力的人,穿的是 兜帽上衣搭配T恤和牛仔褲。
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie. You can immediately think of wearing the hood up, and you feel this warmth and this protection, but at the same time, you can also feel the psychological aspects of it. I mean, think of donning a hoodie, all of a sudden, you feel more protected, you feel that you are in your own shell.
思考兜帽上衣的 實體面向是很容易的。 你馬上就可以想到把兜帽戴上, 你能感到溫暖以及受保護的感覺, 但同時, 你也可以感受到它的心理面向。 想像穿著兜帽上衣, 突然間,你就覺得比較受保護, 你覺得你在自己的保護殼當中。
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify in the past few years in the United States. When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid, was shot by a neighborhood vigilante, and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States, in which people wore hoodies with the hood up and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice. It doesn't happen that often for a garment to have so much symbolism and history and that encompasses so many different universes as the hoodie.
我們都很清楚,在美國,過去幾年 兜帽變得很有重要意義。 當十七歲的非裔美國孩子 特雷沃恩馬丁 被街坊的義警射殺, 全美展開了百萬兜帽上衣大遊行, 人們會穿著兜帽上衣並把兜帽戴上, 在街上遊行,抗議這種歧視。 這種事不常發生, 很少會有一種服裝能有 這麼多象徵性及歷史意義, 且包含了這麼多不同的領域, 兜帽上衣做到了。
So, like all garments, especially all truly utilitarian garments, it is very basic in its design. But at the same time, it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
所以,如同所有服裝, 特別是真正實用的服裝, 兜帽上衣的設計很基本。 但同時, 它又有著無限的可能性。