The hoodie is an amazing object. It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of, because they work so well that they're part of our lives. We call them "humble masterpieces."
帽衫是非常神奇的东西。 是那种早已悄悄融入我们的生活, 几乎被我们遗忘了的 无数物件之一。 我们称它们为 “谦虚的杰作”。
[Small thing.] [Big idea.]
【小物件】 【大点子】
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
【保拉·安东内利——帽衫】
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so -- it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons. The earliest ones that we can trace are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome. The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached, so therefore, "hoodies." Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers. And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner. So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
帽衫 ——就算以前 它不叫这个名字—— 不论好坏,它都一直是 历史的风向标。 我们可追溯的最早的帽衫, 起源于古希腊和古罗马。 中世纪时,很多修士会穿 带帽兜的披肩式袍子, 所以就有了“帽衫”这个名字。 17世纪的女性也穿帽衫, 目的是在与情人见面时隐蔽自己。 当然,有各种各样的传说和臆想, 有穿着帽衫拿着镰刀的死神, 还有穿着帽衫的刽子手。 那是帽衫历史中黑暗的一面。
The modern incarnation of the hoodie -- a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey, that has a hood attached with a drawstring; sometimes it has a marsupial pocket -- was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company. Now it's called Champion. It was meant to keep athletes warm. Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere. And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders, and it takes on this kind of youth street culture. It was, at the same time, super-comfortable, perfect for the streets and also had that added value of anonymity when you needed it. And then we have Mark Zuckerberg, who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople. But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed. If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard. The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
帽衫在现代的化身—— 通常是由棉布制成的运动衫, 后面带着一个边沿被 细绳贯通的帽子: 有时它前面还有一个口袋—— 上世纪30年代,Knickerbocker Knitting 公司把这种衣服推行到市场上。 现在公司改名为“Champion”。 帽衫曾是为运动员保暖而设计的。 但因为其功能多样,且十分舒适, 在世界各地的工人 群体中迅速风靡起来。 到了上个世纪80年代左右, 帽衫也在嘻哈说唱文化爱好者, 以及滑板爱好者中流行起来, 并在这种年轻的 街头文化中占据了一席之地。 同时,帽衫极舒适的特点, 也非常适合街头穿着, 并在你需要的时候,添加了一份 隐藏身份的色彩。 然后还有马克·扎克伯格, 一个挑衅商业人士习以为常的 正式着装风俗的人。 有趣的是,帽衫也成为了一种 展示权力转变的方式。 如果你身穿整套西服, 那估计你是一名保镖。 真正执掌大权的是那个 穿着T恤及帽衫,还有牛仔裤的人。
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie. You can immediately think of wearing the hood up, and you feel this warmth and this protection, but at the same time, you can also feel the psychological aspects of it. I mean, think of donning a hoodie, all of a sudden, you feel more protected, you feel that you are in your own shell.
穿好帽衫时的样子很容易想象, 你可以马上就体验到 戴上帽衫帽子的感觉, 那种温暖和安全感, 与此同时, 你也能感受到心理上的感觉。 我的意思是,想象着 穿了上一件帽衫, 突然间就有一种受到保护的感觉, 感觉自己在自己的保护壳里面。
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify in the past few years in the United States. When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid, was shot by a neighborhood vigilante, and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States, in which people wore hoodies with the hood up and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice. It doesn't happen that often for a garment to have so much symbolism and history and that encompasses so many different universes as the hoodie.
我们清楚地知道,帽衫 在美国的过去几年里, 有着什么样的意义。 当一个17岁的美国非裔的孩子 塔拉万·马丁(Trayvon Martin) 被一个治安维护者枪杀时, 全美国有上百万 穿着帽衫的人进行游行示威, 这些人戴上帽衫的帽子, 在街上游行示威来抵制这种偏见。 一种服饰蕴含了 如此重大的意义和历史, 这并不常见, 更何况是像帽衫这样 所涉及的领域 如此广泛的服装,
So, like all garments, especially all truly utilitarian garments, it is very basic in its design. But at the same time, it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
就像所有的服装一样, 尤其是所有实用至上的服装, 它拥有着最普通的设计。 但与此同时, 在它身上又蕴藏着无数的可能性。