The hoodie is an amazing object. It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of, because they work so well that they're part of our lives. We call them "humble masterpieces."
Duks sa kapuljačom je zadivljujuć predmet. To je jedan od onih bezvremenih predmeta na koji retko kad pomislimo, jer funkcionišu veoma dobro kao sastavni deo naših života. Nazivamo ih „skromnim remek-delima“.
[Small thing.] [Big idea.]
[Mala stvar.] [Velika ideja.]
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
[Paola Antoneli o duksu sa kapuljačom]
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so -- it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons. The earliest ones that we can trace are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome. The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached, so therefore, "hoodies." Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers. And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner. So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
Duks sa kapuljačom je predstavljao, iako nije tako nazvan, ikonu tokom istorije, iz dobrih i loših razloga. Najraniji za koji znamo potiče iz antičke Grčke i antičkog Rima. Tokom srednjeg veka vidimo dosta monaha koji su nosili delove odeće poput plašta sa prišivenim kapuljačama, te odatle i „duksevi sa kapuljačom“. Dame su u 17.veku nosile duks sa kapuljačom kao način da se sakriju kada bi se nalazile sa svojim ljubavnicima. A, naravno, tu je i legenda i mašta. Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom koji je povezan sa Smrću. Postoji i prikaz duksa sa kapuljačom koji je povezan sa dželatom. Dakle, postoji i tamna strana duksa sa kapuljačom.
The modern incarnation of the hoodie -- a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey, that has a hood attached with a drawstring; sometimes it has a marsupial pocket -- was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company. Now it's called Champion. It was meant to keep athletes warm. Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere. And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders, and it takes on this kind of youth street culture. It was, at the same time, super-comfortable, perfect for the streets and also had that added value of anonymity when you needed it. And then we have Mark Zuckerberg, who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople. But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed. If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard. The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
Moderno oličenje duksa sa kapuljačom - komada odeće koji je obično napravljen od pamučnog džempera i ima prišivenu kapuljaču sa učkurom, ponekad i džep kao kod torbara - predstavila je 1930-ih „Kompanija za izradu muških tri-četvrt pantalona“. Danas se zove „Čempion“. Bio je namenjen da greje sportiste. Naravno, između ostalog, bio je to toliko funkcionalan i udoban komad odeće da su ga radnici svuda veoma brzo prihvatili. A zatim, oko 1980-ih, takođe su ga prihvatili hip-hop i B-boy pokreti, skejteri, i tako postaje deo ulične kulture mladih. Bio je, u isto vreme, izuzetno udoban, savršen za ulice, a imao je i tu dodatnu prednost anonimnosti kada je bila potrebna. A zatim imamo i Marka Zakerberga, koji prkosi prihvaćenom pravilu uglednog odevanja kod poslovnih ljudi. Ali, zanimljivo je što je to i način da se pokaže koliko se moć promenila. Ako nosiš dvodelno odelo, možda si telohranitelj. Moćna osoba je zapravo ona koja nosi duks sa kapuljačom, majicu i pantalone.
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie. You can immediately think of wearing the hood up, and you feel this warmth and this protection, but at the same time, you can also feel the psychological aspects of it. I mean, think of donning a hoodie, all of a sudden, you feel more protected, you feel that you are in your own shell.
Lako je zamisliti fizičke aspekte duksa sa kapuljačom. Možete odmah zamisliti kako nosite kapuljaču i odmah imate taj topli osećaj zaštite, a u isto vreme možete osetiti i psihološku stranu toga. Hoću reći, zamislite kako oblačite duks sa kapuljačom i odjednom, osećate se zaštićeno osećate kao da ste u sopstvenoj školjci.
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify in the past few years in the United States. When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid, was shot by a neighborhood vigilante, and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States, in which people wore hoodies with the hood up and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice. It doesn't happen that often for a garment to have so much symbolism and history and that encompasses so many different universes as the hoodie.
Svi vrlo dobro znamo šta je duks sa kapuljačom počeo da označava poslednjih godina u Sjedinjenim Američkim Država. Kada su Trejvona Martina, 17-godišnjeg dečaka afričko-američkog porekla, upucali osvetnici iz kraja i kada se Milionski marš kapuljača desio širom Sjedinjenih Američkih Država, u kome su ljudi nosili duks sa podignutom kapuljačom i marširali ulicama protiv ove vrste nepravde. Ne događa se tako često da jedan komad odeće ima toliko simbolizma i istorije i da obuhvata toliko različitih svetova kao što je duks sa kapuljačom.
So, like all garments, especially all truly utilitarian garments, it is very basic in its design. But at the same time, it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
Pa, kao i kod svih komada odeće, pogotovo kod onih zaista korisnih komada odeće, dizajn mu je veoma jednostavan. Ali, u isto vreme, ima ceo svet povezanih mogućnosti.