The hoodie is an amazing object. It's one of those timeless objects that we hardly think of, because they work so well that they're part of our lives. We call them "humble masterpieces."
Majica s kapuljačom je zadivljujuć predmet. To je jedan od onih bezvremenskih predmeta o kojima rijetko mislimo, jer nas tako dobro služe da su postali dio naših života. Zovemo ih "skromna remek-djela."
[Small thing.] [Big idea.]
[Mala stvar.] [Velika ideja.]
[Paola Antonelli on the Hoodie]
[Paola Antonelli o majici s kapuljačom]
The hoodie has been -- even if it was not called so -- it's been an icon throughout history for good and for bad reasons. The earliest ones that we can trace are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome. The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks that were wearing garments that were cape-like, with hoods attached, so therefore, "hoodies." Ladies in the 17th century would wear hoodies to kind of hide themselves when they were going to meet their lovers. And then, of course, there's the legend, there's fantasy. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the grim reaper. There's the image of the hoodie connected to the executioner. So there's the dark side of the hoodie.
Majica s kapuljačom bila je -- čak i ako je nisu tako zvali -- bila je ikona kroz povijest zbog dobrih i loših razloga. Najraniji tragovi koje imamo su iz antičke Grčke i drevnog Rima. U srednjem vijeku, vidite puno redovnika koji su nosili odjevne predmete slične plaštevima, s kapuljačama, zato, "majice s kapuljačom". Dame u 17. stoljeću nosile bi majice s kapuljačom kako bi se nekako sakrile dok idu na sastanke s ljubavnicima. I naravno, tu su legende, tu je svijet fantazije. Tu je slika majice s kapuljačom povezane sa žeteocem smrti. Postoji slika majice s kapuljačom povezane s krvnicima. To je tamna strana majice s kapuljačom.
The modern incarnation of the hoodie -- a garment that's made usually of cotton jersey, that has a hood attached with a drawstring; sometimes it has a marsupial pocket -- was introduced in the 1930s by Knickerbocker Knitting Company. Now it's called Champion. It was meant to keep athletes warm. Of course, though, it was such a functional, comfortable garment that it was very rapidly adopted by workmen everywhere. And then, around the 1980s, it also gets adopted by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders, and it takes on this kind of youth street culture. It was, at the same time, super-comfortable, perfect for the streets and also had that added value of anonymity when you needed it. And then we have Mark Zuckerberg, who defies convention of respectable attire for businesspeople. But interestingly, it's also a way to show how power has changed. If you're wearing a two-piece suit, you might be the bodyguard. The real powerful person is wearing a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.
Moderna inkarnacija majice s kapuljačom -- predmeta koji je najčešće od pamuka, koji ima kapuljaču s vezicom; ponekad ima džep nalik tobolcu -- uveden je 1930. od strane Knickerbocker Knitting Company. Sada se zove Champion. Trebala je pomoći sportašima da se utople. Naravno, to je bio toliko funkcionalan i udoban odjevni predmet, da je ubrzo posvuda prihvaćen od strane radnika. I onda je, u osamdesetima, također prihvaćen od strane hip-hopa, breakdancera, skejtera i preuzima tu uličnu kulturu mladih. Bio je, u isto vrijeme, super udoban, savršen za ulice i također je imao tu dodanu vrijednost anonimnosti, kada je ona bila potrebna. I onda imamo Marka Zuckerberga, koji se opire konvenciji dolične odjeće za poslovne ljude. Ali zanimljivo, to je također način da se pokaže kako se moć promijenila. Ako nosite dvodjelno odijelo, možda ste tjelesni čuvar. Moćna osoba nosi majicu s kapuljačom, majicu i traperice.
It's easy to think of the physical aspects of the hoodie. You can immediately think of wearing the hood up, and you feel this warmth and this protection, but at the same time, you can also feel the psychological aspects of it. I mean, think of donning a hoodie, all of a sudden, you feel more protected, you feel that you are in your own shell.
Lako je misliti o fizičkim aspektima majice s kapuljačom. Možete odmah pomisliti na to kako ste navukli kapuljaču i osjećate njenu toplinu i zaštitu, ali u isto vrijeme, osjećate i psihološke aspekte. Zamislite da je navučete i odjednom se osjećate zaštićenije, osjećate da imate svoj oklop.
We know very well what the hoodie has come to signify in the past few years in the United States. When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old African-American kid, was shot by a neighborhood vigilante, and Million Hoodie Marches happened all over the United States, in which people wore hoodies with the hood up and marched in the streets against this kind of prejudice. It doesn't happen that often for a garment to have so much symbolism and history and that encompasses so many different universes as the hoodie.
Znamo što je majica s kapuljačom počela simbolizirati u posljednjih nekoliko godina u SAD-u. Kada je Trayvon Martin, afroamerički 17-ogodišnjak, upucan od strane člana dobrovoljnog udruženja za građansku zaštitu, došlo je do marševa Million Hoodie diljem SAD-a, gdje su ljudi nosili majice s kapuljačama na glavi i marširali ulicama protiv takvih predrasuda. Ne događa se često da odjevni predmet ima toliko simbolike i povijesti i da obuhvaća toliko različitih svjetova, kao majica s kapuljačom.
So, like all garments, especially all truly utilitarian garments, it is very basic in its design. But at the same time, it has a whole universe of possibilities attached.
Tako, kao svi odjevni predmeti, osobito vrlo uporabljivi odjevni predmeti, vrlo je jednostavna u dizajnu. Ali, u isto vrijeme, u sebi sadrži čitav univerzum mogućnosti.