My name is Jon Gray. They call me "The Dishwasher." I cofounded Ghetto Gastro, a Bronx-based collective that works at the intersection of food, design and art. We create experiences that challenge people's perceptions of the Bronx, the place that I call home.
我是喬恩格雷, 大家叫我「洗碗機」。 我是 Ghetto Gastro 的共同創辦人, 它是一個位於布朗克斯的集團, 涉獵的領域包括 食物、設計,和藝術。 我們創造出來的體驗 會挑戰布朗克斯人的感知, 布朗克斯是我的家。
It's a funny thing. I just touched down in Vancouver from Paris a few days ago. We took over the Place Vendôme with the Bronx Brasserie. Oui oui, chérie.
有件事很有趣。 幾天前,我才從巴黎飛到溫哥華。 我們用布朗克斯餐館 佔領了芳登廣場。 (法文)是的,親愛的。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
It's wild, because in Paris, they have this saying, "le Bronx," which means something is in disarray or a problem. That's the Place Vendôme. We shut it down one time.
這很狂野,因為在巴黎有一種說法: 「(法文)le Bronx」, 意思是某件事很混亂或很麻煩。 這是芳登廣場。 我們一度讓它停業。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
This lingo came into play when the Bronx was burning, and movies like "The Warriors" and "Fort Apache" still make an impression. Some may disagree, but I believe the Bronx was designed to fail. The power broker was a joker. Robert Moses, instead of parting the Red Sea, he parted the Bronx with a six-lane highway and redlined my community. My great-grandparents had a home on Featherbed Lane, and contrary to the name, they couldn't get a good night's rest due to the constant blasting and drilling that was necessary to build the cross-Bronx expressway a block away. I consider these policy decisions design crimes.
出現這種方言說法 正是布朗克斯在燃燒的時候, 像《殺神輓歌》 和《要塞風雲》這類電影 仍讓人印象深刻。 有些人可能不同意, 但我相信布朗克斯 就是被設計要失敗的。 權力經紀人是個小丑。 羅伯摩西並沒有把紅海分開成兩半, 而是用六線道的公路 將布朗克斯分開, 把我的社區劃分出來。 我的曾祖父母在費勒貝 (意思:羽毛床)巷有間房子, 和巷名相反, 他們得不到一夜好眠, 因為經常會有無法避免的 巨大響聲和鑽孔聲, 因為建造穿越布朗克斯之 高速公路的工程 就在一個街區之外。 我認為這些政策決策 是設計犯罪。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
Being the resilient people that we are uptown, out of the systematic oppression hip-hop culture rose from the rubble and the ashes like a phoenix. Hip-hop is now a trillion-dollar industry, but this economic activity doesn't make it back to the Bronx or communities like it.
我們是住在上城區 (住宅區)恢復力較強的人, 在有系統的壓迫之外, 嘻哈文化從瓦礫和灰燼之中興起, 就像鳳凰一樣。 嘻哈現在是個價值上兆美元的產業, 但這種經濟活動並沒有 回到布朗克斯 或和它類似的社區。
Let's take it back to 1986. I was born in the heart of the AIDS crisis, the crack epidemic and the War on Drugs. The only thing that trickled down from Reaganomics was ghettonomics: pain, prison and poverty.
咱們回到 1986 年。 我出生在愛滋病危機、 快克流行和毒品戰爭的中心。 唯一從雷根經濟學滲下來的, 就是貧民區經濟學: 痛苦、監獄,和貧窮。
I was raised by brilliant, beautiful and accomplished black women. Even so, my pops wasn't in the picture, and I couldn't resist the allure of the streets. Like Biggie said, you're either slinging crack rock or you got a wicked jump shot. Don't get it twisted, my jumper was wet.
養育我的是聰明、漂亮、 有成就的黑人女性。 即便如此,我的成長過程沒有爸爸, 且我無法抗拒街頭的誘惑。 如聲名狼藉先生說的, 你若不是在販售快克, 就是有很棒的跳投。(歌詞) 別誤解,我的跳投很準。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
My shit was wet.
我連拉屎都很準。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
But when I turned 15, I started selling weed, I didn't finish high school, the New York Board of Education banned me from all of those, but I did graduate to selling cocaine when I turned 18. I did well. That was until I got jammed up, caught a case, when I was 20. I was facing 10 years. I posted bail, signed up at the Fashion Institute, I applied the skills that I learned in the streets to start my own fashion brand. My lawyer peeked my ambition, so he suggested that the judge grant me a suspended sentence. For once in my life, a suspension was a good thing.
但我十五歲時開始販售大麻, 我沒有讀完高中, 紐約市教育局禁止我去上任何高中, 但我在十八歲時升級去販售古柯鹼。 我生意很好, 直到二十歲被逮捕。 我面臨的是十年徒刑。 我提交了保釋金, 報名了時尚設計商業學院, 我把我在街頭學到的技能用上去, 創立了我自己的時尚品牌。 我的律師窺見我的野心, 他建議法官判我暫緩監禁(緩刑)。 我人生中就這麼一次, 暫緩是件好事。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
Over the course of two years and many court dates, my case got dismissed. Both of my brothers have done jail time, so escaping the clutches of the prison industrial system didn't seem realistic to me. Right now, one of my brothers is facing 20 years. My mother put in great effort in taking me out to eat, making sure we visited museums and traveled abroad, basically exposing me to as much culture as she could.
經過了兩年的時間 及許多上法庭的日子之後, 我的案件被撤回。 我的兩位兄弟都坐過牢, 所以,逃離監獄產業體制的魔爪 對我來說不像是真的。 現在,我的其中一位兄弟 面臨二十年徒刑。 我母親做了很多努力, 帶我去出吃飯, 確保我們參觀博物館, 到國外旅行, 基本上就是盡可能 讓我接觸更多文化。
I remembered how as a kid, I used to take over the dinner table and order food for everybody. Breaking bread has always allowed me to break the mold and connect with people.
我記得小時候 接管為所有人點餐的任務。 和別人一起進餐 一直都讓我能夠打破常規, 和人們連結。
Me and my homie Les, we grew up on the same block in the Bronx, two street dudes. He happened to be a chef. We always discussed the possibility of doing something in the food game for the benefit of our neighborhood. Les had just won the food show "Chopped." Our homie Malcolm was gearing up to run a pastry kitchen at Noma, yeah, world's best Noma in Copenhagen, you know the vibes. My man P had just finished training in I-I-Italy, Milano to be exact. We decided the world needed some Bronx steasoning on it, so we mobbed up and formed Ghetto Gastro.
我和我的好兄弟萊斯 在布朗克斯的同一個街區長大, 兩個街頭小鬼。 他剛好是大廚。 我們總是在討論有沒有可能 在食物領域中做點什麼, 為我們的鄰坊謀福利。 萊斯剛在食物節目 《Chopped》中獲勝。 我們的好兄弟麥爾肯準備好 要在 Noma 餐廳經營點心廚房, 是的,世界最佳餐廳, 哥本哈根的 Noma,你們知道的。 我兄弟 P 剛在「義大利」完成訓練, 明確來說是米蘭。 我們認為,世界需要 一點布朗克斯調味, 所以我們集結起來, 成立了 Ghetto Gastro。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
While I'm aware our name makes a lot of people uncomfortable, for us "ghetto" means home. Similar to the way someone in Mumbai or Nairobi might use the word "slum," it's to locate our people and to indict the systems of neglect that created these conditions.
雖然我知道我們的名字 會讓許多人感到不舒服, 但「Ghetto(貧民區)」 就是我們的家。 就類似在孟買或是奈洛比的人 會用「貧民窟(slum)」這個詞, 它是在找出我們的族群所在, 和起訴造成這些狀況的忽略體制。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
So what is Ghetto Gastro? Ultimately, it's a movement and a philosophy. We view the work we do as gastrodiplomacy, using food and finesse to open borders and connect culture. Last year in Tokyo, we did a Caribbean patty, we do jerk wagyu beef, shio kombu. We remixed the Bronx classic with the Japanese elements. And for Kwanzaa, we had to pay homage to our Puerto Ricans, and we did a coconut charcoal cognac coquito. Dímelo!
所以,Ghetto Gastro 是什麼? 最終,它是一種運動、一種哲學。 我們認為我們做的是貧民區外交, 用食物和手腕 來打開邊界和連結文化。 去年,在東京, 我們做了加勒比海小餡餅, 我們做了和牛肉乾, 海帶乾。 我們將布朗克斯經典 和日本元素混合。 至於非洲寬札節, 我們得要向波多黎各人致敬, 做了 椰子炭烤干邑白蘭地雞尾酒。
(Laughter)
你好!
(笑聲)
This here is our Black Power waffle with some gold leaf syrup. Make sure you don't slip on the drip.
這裡的是我們的黑色力量鬆餅, 加上一些金葉糖漿。 千萬不要滴下來之後踩到滑跤。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
Here we got the 36 Brix plant-based velato. Strawberry fields, you know the deal. Compressed watermelon, basil seeds, a little bit of strawberries up there. Back to the Bronx Brasserie, you know we had to hit them in the head with that caviar and cornbread.
這是白利糖度為 36 的植物性油。 你們知道的「草莓田」。 濃縮西瓜、 羅勒種子、 上面放一點點的草莓。 回到布朗克斯餐館, 我們端出魚子醬佐玉米麵包。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
(Applause)
(掌聲)
We also practice du-rag diplomacy.
我們也進行長尾頭巾外交。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
Because, we don't edit who we are when we do our thing. Due to our appearance, we often get mistaken for rappers or athletes. It happened here last year at TED. This dude ran down on me and asked me when I was going to perform. How about now?
因為在我們努力時 不會去改變自己是誰。 因為我們的外表, 我們常被誤認為是 饒舌歌手或運動員。 去年在 TED 這裡發生過。 有個傢伙碰到我, 問我是否要去表演。 現在如何?
(Applause)
(掌聲)
So you see, we've been bringing the Bronx to the world but now we focus on bringing the world to the Bronx. We just opened our spot, an idea kitchen where we make and design products, create content --
所以,要知道, 我們把布朗克斯帶向世界, 但現在,我們的焦點是 把世界帶到布朗克斯。 我們剛開了一間店, 一間點子廚房, 我們在那裡製作、設計產品, 創造內容——
(Music)
(音樂)
and host community events. The intention is to build financial capital and creative capital in our hood.
還主辦社區活動。 目的是在我們的鄰坊 建立金融資本和創意資本。
We're also collaborating with world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura on a refettorio in the Bronx. A refettorio is a design-focused soup kitchen and community center. You see the vibes.
我們也和世界知名的大廚 馬西默博圖拉合作, 在布朗克斯開一家餐廳。 它是以設計為主軸的 慈善廚房和社區中心。 你們知道的。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
The recent outpouring of grief about the murder of rapper and entrepreneur Nipsey Hussle is largely due to the fact that he decided to stay and evolve in place, rather than leave his hood. After his death, some may see this decision as foolish, but I'm making that same decision every day: to live in the Bronx, to create in the Bronx, to invest in the Bronx.
最近,饒舌歌手和企業家 尼普西哈塞爾被謀殺的事件, 引來大量的悲痛與哀悼, 主要是因為他決定要 留下來在這個地方成長, 而不是離開他的鄰坊。 在他死後,有些人可能 會認為他的決定很愚蠢, 但我每天也在做同樣的決定: 住在布朗克斯, 在布朗克斯創作, 投資布朗克斯。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
At Ghetto Gastro, we don't run from the word "ghetto," and we don't run from the ghetto. Because at the end of the day, Ghetto Gastro is about showing you what we already know: the hood is good.
在 Ghetto Gastro, 我們不會逃避貧民區這個詞, 我們不會逃避貧民區。 因為,到頭來, Ghetto Gastro 的重點是在 呈現出我們已經知道的: 我們的鄰坊很好。
(Applause)
(掌聲)
Thank you.
謝謝。
(Applause)
(掌聲)