My name is Jon Gray. They call me "The Dishwasher." I cofounded Ghetto Gastro, a Bronx-based collective that works at the intersection of food, design and art. We create experiences that challenge people's perceptions of the Bronx, the place that I call home.
我叫乔恩·格雷。 他们都叫我“洗碗工”。 我是 "贫民区美食" Ghetto Gastro 的联合创始人, 它是一个位于布朗克斯区的集体, 专注于美食、设计和艺术的交集。 我们创造不同的体验, 改变人们对布朗克斯—— 也就是我的家的看法。
It's a funny thing. I just touched down in Vancouver from Paris a few days ago. We took over the Place Vendôme with the Bronx Brasserie. Oui oui, chérie.
说来有趣, 我几天前刚从巴黎飞回温哥华。 我们用 Bronx Brasserie 占领了旺多姆广场。 (法语)没错没错,亲爱的。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
It's wild, because in Paris, they have this saying, "le Bronx," which means something is in disarray or a problem. That's the Place Vendôme. We shut it down one time.
这是件疯狂的事, 因为在巴黎有个说法 “le Bronx"(布朗克斯), 意思是某件事有问题 或者处于无序的状态中。 这是旺多姆广场。 我们曾一度让它关门。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
This lingo came into play when the Bronx was burning, and movies like "The Warriors" and "Fort Apache" still make an impression. Some may disagree, but I believe the Bronx was designed to fail. The power broker was a joker. Robert Moses, instead of parting the Red Sea, he parted the Bronx with a six-lane highway and redlined my community. My great-grandparents had a home on Featherbed Lane, and contrary to the name, they couldn't get a good night's rest due to the constant blasting and drilling that was necessary to build the cross-Bronx expressway a block away. I consider these policy decisions design crimes.
这种用语诞生于布朗克斯区纵火案猖獗 的 70 年代(此处添加了译者注), 人们也都还记得《战士帮》《阿帕奇要塞》 【注:均为 80 年代初布朗克斯犯罪电影】 这类电影。 有的人或许不予赞同, 但我认为,布朗克斯的城市规划 从根本上杜绝了它成长的可能。 权力掮客是一介小丑。 【注:《权利掮客》是罗伯特·摩西的传记名】 罗伯特·摩西并没有劈开红海, 【注:罗伯特·摩西是20世纪纽约城市规划师】 而是用六车道高速公路 隔开了布朗克斯, 将我的社区列入"重点观察对象"。 我的曾祖父母住在 菲瑟贝德(意为“羽毛床道”)上, 可与这个名字相反, 他们没法睡一晚好觉, 因为在一个街区外, 为了修建跨布朗克斯高速, 爆破与打钻的声音 不绝于耳。 我认为,这些政策决定 是设计犯罪。
(Applause)
(掌声)
Being the resilient people that we are uptown, out of the systematic oppression hip-hop culture rose from the rubble and the ashes like a phoenix. Hip-hop is now a trillion-dollar industry, but this economic activity doesn't make it back to the Bronx or communities like it.
作为上城区出身的 坚韧的人们, 为了反抗系统性的压迫, 嘻哈文化如同凤凰, 从瓦砾与灰烬中浴火重生。 嘻哈现在已是价值上万亿的产业, 然而其经济活动 却未能反哺布朗克斯, 或者其他与布朗克斯相似的社区。
Let's take it back to 1986. I was born in the heart of the AIDS crisis, the crack epidemic and the War on Drugs. The only thing that trickled down from Reaganomics was ghettonomics: pain, prison and poverty.
让我们重回 1986 年。 我出生的时候正值 艾滋病危机高峰, 同时还有快客可卡因流行, 以及禁毒战争。 里根经济学的涓滴效应 只带来了贫民窟经济: 痛苦、牢狱、贫穷。
I was raised by brilliant, beautiful and accomplished black women. Even so, my pops wasn't in the picture, and I couldn't resist the allure of the streets. Like Biggie said, you're either slinging crack rock or you got a wicked jump shot. Don't get it twisted, my jumper was wet.
养育我的是聪慧、美丽、 事业有成的黑人女性。 即便如此,我的老爹 并未担起家庭的重责, 而我也不能抗拒 街头的诱惑。 就像大个子(声名狼藉先生)所说的, “你不是把快客卖, 就是跳投得贼帅。” 别搞错了,我打球很牛逼。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
My shit was wet.
屌炸天。
(Applause)
(掌声)
But when I turned 15, I started selling weed, I didn't finish high school, the New York Board of Education banned me from all of those, but I did graduate to selling cocaine when I turned 18. I did well. That was until I got jammed up, caught a case, when I was 20. I was facing 10 years. I posted bail, signed up at the Fashion Institute, I applied the skills that I learned in the streets to start my own fashion brand. My lawyer peeked my ambition, so he suggested that the judge grant me a suspended sentence. For once in my life, a suspension was a good thing.
但当我 15 岁时, 我开始卖大麻, 就没能念完高中, 因为纽约教育局不让我毕业, 不过我 18 岁时开始卖可卡因。 我还挺成功的。 直到二十岁时, 被条子抓进了局子。 面临十年牢狱之灾。 我得到保释, 报名进了时装设计学院, 我将在街头学到的技能 用于开创自己的时装品牌上。 我的律师发现了我的志向, 他向法官建议给我缓刑。 人生中第一次, 暂令停缓成了件好事。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Over the course of two years and many court dates, my case got dismissed. Both of my brothers have done jail time, so escaping the clutches of the prison industrial system didn't seem realistic to me. Right now, one of my brothers is facing 20 years. My mother put in great effort in taking me out to eat, making sure we visited museums and traveled abroad, basically exposing me to as much culture as she could.
经过了两年时间,多次出庭, 告我的案子被驳回了。 我的两位兄弟都蹲过监狱, 所以躲过监狱产业系统的魔爪这件事 对我来说有些不真实。 现在,我的一个兄弟 还面临着二十年刑期。 我的母亲付出了很多努力 带我们出去吃饭, 去参观博物馆, 出国旅游, 总之就是尽她所能 让我充分接受文化熏陶。
I remembered how as a kid, I used to take over the dinner table and order food for everybody. Breaking bread has always allowed me to break the mold and connect with people.
我还记得我小时候, 曾经负责我们的饭桌, 为所有人点菜。 分享面包总能帮我破冰, 与他人建立联系。
Me and my homie Les, we grew up on the same block in the Bronx, two street dudes. He happened to be a chef. We always discussed the possibility of doing something in the food game for the benefit of our neighborhood. Les had just won the food show "Chopped." Our homie Malcolm was gearing up to run a pastry kitchen at Noma, yeah, world's best Noma in Copenhagen, you know the vibes. My man P had just finished training in I-I-Italy, Milano to be exact. We decided the world needed some Bronx steasoning on it, so we mobbed up and formed Ghetto Gastro.
我和我的好哥们雷斯 在布朗克斯的同一个街区长大, 两个街头小子。 他碰巧是位厨师。 我们总会讨论是否可能 在餐饮产业做出一番名堂, 造福我们的邻里。 雷斯刚刚在美食节目 《厨艺大战(Chopped)》中夺得桂冠。 我们的哥们儿马尔科姆整装待发, 准备在诺玛餐厅经营糕点厨房, 没错,位于哥本哈根的全球 最佳餐厅诺玛,那里的气氛你懂的。 我的老友 P 刚刚结束 在意大利的培训, 准确说来是在米兰。 我们觉得世界需要一些 布朗克斯的调味, 所以我们结伙组建了 "贫民区美食"。
(Applause)
(掌声)
While I'm aware our name makes a lot of people uncomfortable, for us "ghetto" means home. Similar to the way someone in Mumbai or Nairobi might use the word "slum," it's to locate our people and to indict the systems of neglect that created these conditions.
虽说我清楚我们的名字 会让很多人感到不适, 但对于我们来说 “ghetto”(贫民区)意味着家。 就像孟买或内罗毕的某人 使用“slum”(贫民窟)这个词的方式, 这是为了找到我们的人民, 以及对造成这些状况的 系统性忽视提出控诉。
(Applause)
(掌声)
So what is Ghetto Gastro? Ultimately, it's a movement and a philosophy. We view the work we do as gastrodiplomacy, using food and finesse to open borders and connect culture. Last year in Tokyo, we did a Caribbean patty, we do jerk wagyu beef, shio kombu. We remixed the Bronx classic with the Japanese elements. And for Kwanzaa, we had to pay homage to our Puerto Ricans, and we did a coconut charcoal cognac coquito. Dímelo!
那么 Ghetto Gastro 究竟是什么呢? 归根结底,它是一个运动, 一种哲学。 我们将我们的工作 视为美食外交, 用食物和手艺 开拓边界,联结文化。 去年在东京, 我们做了加勒比肉饼, 和牛牛肉干, 盐昆布。 我们将布朗克斯的经典 与日本元素进行了混合。 而在宽扎节, 【注:一个非裔美国人节日】 为了向波多黎各朋友致敬, 我们做了椰子木炭干邑鸡尾酒。 (西语) 嘿!
(Laughter)
(笑声)
This here is our Black Power waffle with some gold leaf syrup. Make sure you don't slip on the drip.
这是我们的黑色力量华夫饼, 【注:与“黑人权力”双关】 淋上了金箔糖浆。 别在金丝上滑脱了。 【注:drip 为嘻哈歌曲常用俚语】
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Here we got the 36 Brix plant-based velato. Strawberry fields, you know the deal. Compressed watermelon, basil seeds, a little bit of strawberries up there. Back to the Bronx Brasserie, you know we had to hit them in the head with that caviar and cornbread.
这是我们的 36 Brix 植物原料制冰淇淋。 【注:名字由冰淇淋糖度系数衍生而来】 俗称草莓田。 压缩西瓜, 罗勒籽, 上面加一点草莓。 我们回到布朗克斯餐厅, 要用鱼子酱和玉米面包给他们当头一棒。 【注:法餐和美国非裔经典食物】
(Laughter)
(笑声)
(Applause)
(掌声)
We also practice du-rag diplomacy.
我们还采用“嘻哈头巾外交”。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Because, we don't edit who we are when we do our thing. Due to our appearance, we often get mistaken for rappers or athletes. It happened here last year at TED. This dude ran down on me and asked me when I was going to perform. How about now?
因为我们在做自己的事时 不会对我们的身份进行修饰。 因为我们的样貌, 我们经常被误以为是 说唱歌手或者运动员。 去年在 TED 就发生了这样的事情。 有个家伙跑来问我, 什么时候我会表演? 要不要现在来一段?
(Applause)
(掌声)
So you see, we've been bringing the Bronx to the world but now we focus on bringing the world to the Bronx. We just opened our spot, an idea kitchen where we make and design products, create content --
所以很明显, 我们已经致力于 把布朗克斯带给世界, 但现在,我们正专注于 把世界带到布朗克斯。 我们的店刚刚开张, 一个概念厨房, 在这里我们制作、设计产品, 创造内容、
(Music)
(音乐)
and host community events. The intention is to build financial capital and creative capital in our hood.
并举办社区活动。 我们的目的是,在我们的地盘儿 积累金融资本以及创意资本。
We're also collaborating with world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura on a refettorio in the Bronx. A refettorio is a design-focused soup kitchen and community center. You see the vibes.
我们也和世界知名大厨 马西莫·波图拉合作, 在布朗克斯 经营食堂(refettorio)。 Reffettorio 食堂是一个专注于 设计的流动厨房与社区中心。 就是这种氛围。
(Applause)
(掌声)
The recent outpouring of grief about the murder of rapper and entrepreneur Nipsey Hussle is largely due to the fact that he decided to stay and evolve in place, rather than leave his hood. After his death, some may see this decision as foolish, but I'm making that same decision every day: to live in the Bronx, to create in the Bronx, to invest in the Bronx.
最近对于说唱歌手、企业家 尼普西·哈塞尔的谋杀案 涌现出的悲痛, 很大程度是因为 他决定留下在原处发展, 而不是离开他的家。 在他死后,有些人或许会觉得 这个决定是愚蠢的, 但我每天都在做出 同样的决定: 在布朗克斯生活, 在布朗克斯创造, 为布朗克斯投资。
(Applause)
(掌声)
At Ghetto Gastro, we don't run from the word "ghetto," and we don't run from the ghetto. Because at the end of the day, Ghetto Gastro is about showing you what we already know: the hood is good.
在 Ghetto Gastro, 我们不会逃避“贫民窟”这个词, 也不会从贫民窟逃跑。 因为在最后, Ghetto Gastro 想做的 是向你们展现我们已熟知的一点: 我们这地儿 一切都很好。
(Applause)
(掌声)
Thank you.
谢谢大家。
(Applause)
(掌声)