We're living in difficult times because, on one hand, thanks to connectivity, we can see the most beautiful sides of humanity but, on the other hand, also the ugliest: hunger, violence, war, hatred, intolerance; daily scenes that, when we come home at the end of the day, we feel that everything is kind of lost.
我們正生活在一個 充滿矛盾的時代, 因為,在一方面, 歸功於網路連結, 我們得以看見人性中 最美好的一面; 但在另一方面, 我們也看到最醜陋的一面: 飢餓、暴力、戰爭、仇恨、偏執; 這是每天都有的景象: 當我們在日暮時分回到家時, 我們感到悵然若失。
But it's not, because it's precisely at home where we might find one of the most infallible tools to fight for the nutritional, emotional and environmental well-being of our planet. Where at home? Well, in the kitchen. I'll tell you why with three stories.
但並非如此, 正是因為在家中,我們才能夠找到 這堪稱萬無一失的武器, 協助我們,為世界上的營養健康、 情緒健康以及環境保護而戰。 在家中的哪裡呢? 在廚房裡。 我將用三個故事 來告訴各位為什麼。
The first one: I'm from Lima, a product of mixed bloods, as you can see: my mother, a daughter of the coastal area, aristocratic and viceregal, and my father, a son of the Andes, the Incas, from Cuzco. So in my home, the Andes and the coastal area, which are historically confrontational, ended up together because of love, as happened to most people from Lima, descendants of diverse backgrounds: Africans with people from the Amazons, Japanese with Andeans, Chinese with Italians.
第一個故事: 我來自利馬, 如各位所見,我是混血兒: 我的母親是貴族總督的女兒, 來自海岸地區, 我的父親是安地斯山脈 庫斯科印加人的兒子。 所以,在我家裡, 在歷史上針鋒相對的 安地斯山脈和海岸地區, 最後因為愛而結合在一起。 在利馬,大部分人也都是 多樣化背景的後裔: 非洲人和來自亞馬遜的人、 日本人和安地斯人、 中國人和義大利人。
Like this love story, for example: the daughter of a prosperous Cantonese store owner fell in love playing on the streets of the port of Callao in Lima with the son of a famous Genovese pastry chef from Italy. In the beginning, their parents were totally against their love, so they decided to run away to create their home. It's there that they discover their biggest differences. Where? On the table. She discovers that she really loved the fried rice that her father used to make for her in the wok. And he loved his grandmother's slow-cooked risotto. She wanted to add soy sauce to everything.
就像這個愛情故事: 一個富有的廣東籍的 商店老闆的女兒, 在利馬的卡亞俄港口的 街道上玩耍時, 愛上了來自義大利熱那亞的 知名糕餅師傅的兒子。 一開始,他們的父母 極力反對他們相愛。 所以他們決定私奔, 去創造他們自己的家。 正是在成家之後,他們才發現了 兩人之間最大的差異。 在哪裡?在餐桌上。 她發現,爸爸以前用 鐵鍋為她做的炒飯, 早已令她一往情深。 而他則對奶奶慢煮的 意大利燴飯垂涎欲滴。 她吃什麼都要加醬油。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
And he wanted to add Parmesan cheese to everything.
他則是煮什麼都要加帕爾馬干酪。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
In the end, they come to an agreement: They cook their rice in the wok, but they slow cook it.
最終,他們達成協議: 他們用鐵鍋煮飯, 但要慢慢煮。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
They add a little bit of Parmesan cheese and a little bit of soy sauce. And a new dish is born: the Peruvian rice with seafood, which has a little bit from one, and a little bit from the other -- like all the dishes in our cuisine with that magical seal of a Peru that, for many centuries, received millions of people who had the dream of building their lives in our country. They were not received in ghettos or separated, but integrated, joined together, and, at least in the kitchen, learned to build bountiful bridges of love and peace. The message from Peru is clear: nothing bad can happen to us; only good things will occur when we embrace our diversity.
他們會加一點帕爾馬干酪, 還有一點醬油。 一道新菜出爐了: 秘魯海鮮飯。 有一點點這個,一點點那個—— 就像我們所有的菜餚一樣, 都有秘魯的魔法印記。 數世紀來,秘魯接納了數百萬的人, 他們夢想著在我們的國家裡 打造自己的生活。 他們並沒有被送到貧民區, 或是被隔離。 而是與大家融合在一起, 而且,至少在廚房裡, 學會了築起一座座 愛與和平的橋樑。 來自秘魯的訊息很清楚明確: 壞事不會發生在我們身上; 當我們欣然接受彼此的 多樣性時,只有好事會發生。
The second story is about me, a chef. I started my training in Paris, as a student, where I also had the good fortune of meeting my wife, Astrid, who I convinced to come to Peru, to make our dream come true: a small restaurant, a nice restaurant that would support our family. This was our first restaurant: Astrid and Gastón. This was the 90s, and during the 90s -- as was happening with cuisines across most of the world -- we were living under the influence of the French haute cuisine, in a world where the local public would also always prefer anything that came from abroad, rather than from our own land. Maybe that's the reason why when we came home, even though we had a lot of customers every day, we didn't feel fulfilled.
第二個故事是關於我的, 我是個廚師。 我在巴黎以學生身份 開始接受訓練。 在那裡,我很幸運地遇到了 我的太太阿斯特麗德。 我說服了她跟我一起來到秘魯, 在這裡實現我們的夢想: 開一間可以維持家人 生活的、漂亮的小餐廳。 這是我們的第一間餐廳, 名字是「阿斯特麗德與加斯頓」。 當時是 90 年代。 在 90 年代——和全世界大部分 地方的烹飪發展的狀況一樣—— 我們受到法國高級烹飪術的薰陶。 在這個世界裡, 比起當地的食物, 當地的民眾總是偏愛 任何來自外國的食物, 也許這就是為什麽 即使我們每天都有很多客人, 但當我們回到家中時, 我們仍然不滿足。
We'd hear that little voice saying: "Does it make sense to have a French restaurant, run by a German and a Peruvian, in a city that is not in France, but in Peru?"
我們聽見有個微小的聲音在說: 「這說得過去嗎? 一間由德國人和秘魯人 經營的法國餐廳, 不是開在法國,而是在秘魯?」
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
The answer would come years later, at the beginning of this century, when two important events took place. First, the world was becoming connected through internet. As a result, countries started to value the diversity of their people, and Peru was one of them. Second, the Peruvian economy began to experience a steady growth after the defeat of the Shining Path. It was the perfect timing for my generation of cooks and chefs to begin to work together; to move past egos, vanities and distrust, and to remove any competition between us in order to work for those who didn't have a voice: the cooks in the corners, the cooks in the markets, the small farmers in the Amazon, in the Andes, on the coast, the artisanal fishermen on the Pacific -- all historically forgotten or underappreciated. Thanks to this movement, we began to envision an opportunity to build a space of mutual trust, an environment of trust that would allow us to work toward collective goals that were much more important and transcendental. Thanks to this movement, we started to imagine a Peruvian cuisine that would bring a new message of a magical and seductive Peru to the world, with Peruvian restaurants that spread all over the world transformed into vibrant embassies promoting our culture and our products every day and convincing the world's tourists to come and visit Peru.
多年之後,在這個世紀初 答案才出現。 那時,發生了兩大事件。 第一,網際網路讓世界得以連結。 結果就是,許多國家開始 重視其人民的多樣性, 秘魯也是其中之一。 第二,在秘魯共產黨被擊敗後, 秘魯的經濟開始穩步增長。 那個時間點很完美, 讓我這一代的主廚和廚師 開始同心協力地工作; 超越自我、虛榮以及懷疑, 並排除我們之間的任何競爭。 這樣才能為那些沒有 辦法發聲的人而努力: 在街角的廚師、在市場的廚師、 在亞馬遜、安地斯山脈 及海岸地區的小農、 太平洋上的個體漁民—— 在歷史上,他們都被遺忘了, 或是沒有受到應有的賞識。 因為這項運動,我們開始構思 一個能夠建立相互 信任的空間的機會, 一個讓我們能夠 為了共同的目標而努力的環境, 去達成更重要且更卓越的目標。 歸功於這項運動, 我們開始想像一種秘魯菜餚, 能夠傳遞一個新的訊息, 讓世界都看到有魔力的、迷人的秘魯。 讓全世界各地的秘魯餐廳, 轉變成為充滿生氣的大使館, 每天都在推動我們的 文化和我們的產品, 說服全世界的遊客來造訪秘魯。
In the beginning, as it usually happens, they thought we were crazy utopians. "Ceviche? As important as a French dish?"
一開始,並不意外, 他們認為我們是 腦袋壞掉的空想家。 「秘魯的酸醃生魚? 和法國菜一樣重要?」
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
"Using our cooking, an insignificant and day-to-day event, as a tool to promote the image of our country to the world, or as a key to unify a nation?"
「用我們的烹飪, 這樣日常的小事, 來作為一種工具, 向全世界推廣我們國家的形象, 或是作為讓國家團結的關鍵?」
"No, that's impossible," they'd say.
他們會說:「不,那不可能。」
But, it happened. Today, the Peruvian cuisine is in people's hearts all over the world. Thanks to that, something very important happened -- even more important than the presence of ceviche today on menus of famous restaurants in Paris; or that Peruvian cuisine is now, without doubt, at the same level as those other great cuisines of the world; or that Lima has become a hotspot for tourists thanks to the virtues of its gastronomy, creating opportunities and jobs for many people.
但它確實發生了。 現今,在全世界, 秘魯菜已經深入人心。 多虧如此,很重要的事情發生了—— 其重要性甚至勝過 現今秘魯酸醃生魚出現在 巴黎知名餐廳的菜單上; 現今秘魯菜餚無疑已經可以 與世界上其他最棒的菜餚並駕齊驅; 或是利馬成為遊客造訪的熱門景點, 感謝這種美食的優點, 為許多人創造出機會和工作。
The most important thing that we achieved was to build a deep sense of confidence and belief in our identity, and a space of union amongst Peruvians that moves us when we see our cuisine recognized around the world. It's true that for a long time, we were told that it'd be better if we denied our origins -- that to be valued, we must act like Europeans or Americans. As a result, full of fear, we hid this love from our parents, to protect it. But finally, today we can celebrate proudly, with confidence and in peace, our multicultural identity. The message in this second story also emphasizes the idea that cooking can be a tool for happiness and well-being if we embrace our multicultural identity.
我們最大的成就 是讓大家對於我們的身分 建立起很深的信心和信念, 以及一個讓秘魯人能團結的空間, 當我們看見我們的菜餚在全世界 被認可時,會因此深受感動。 的確,長久以來, 別人都告訴我們,否認我們的 出身會對我們會比較好—— 若要被重視, 我們必須學歐洲人或美國人。 結果,因為充滿了恐懼, 我們不讓父母知道這股熱愛, 並用這種方式來保護它。 但最終,我們現在可以驕傲地 帶著信心,以和平的方式, 讚頌我們多文化的身份。 第二個故事的訊息 也強調了一個想法: 烹飪可以成為一種工具, 若我們擁抱多文化身份 就能藉助它得到快樂以及幸福。
The third story does not bring very good news. From the Industrial Revolution until now, we have been forced into a lifestyle that prompts us to consume products we don't really need. Products that are also cut off from the rational use of our ingredients and environment -- but that marketing campaigns have led us to believe we couldn't happily live without them. Today, for example, this has culminated in more people dying due to obesity than due to hunger. In developed cities, more people die by suicide than by crime. In the case of Peru, despite a growing economy, there's malnutrition and anemia in places that export their own food, while the Amazon and our seas are being destroyed and overfished. Here is where cooking can help us again -- not just in Peru, but all over the world. How? By placing cooking at the heart of our homes, at the center of everything, with information and education. Because with information and education, we can make the right decisions about what to cook and what to eat so we can find a new balance, in which we can all live in harmony. A new harmony between health and enjoyment, between small producers and the big industries, between the local culture and the environment, between local products and universal products. That's precisely the reason why we have to place cooking at the heart of our homes. Because if we take this message to every home, if cooking becomes important again in each home, the effects in the market and in many other activities would be massive and powerful.
第三個故事帶來的 並不是很好的消息。 從工業革命到現在, 我們被迫轉變了生活方式, 它會刺激我們去消費 我們其實並不需要的產品。 這些產品也使得人們 極不合理地使用 我們的原料和環境—— 但行銷活动讓我們相信 若沒有它們, 我們的生活就不會快樂。 現今,舉例來說, 一個很嚴重的現象是: 比起飢餓,過度肥胖 造成了更多人死亡。 在發達城市中, 比起被害致死,更多人死於自殺。 至於秘魯的狀況, 儘管經濟在成長, 仍然有營養不良和貧血發生在 那些當地食物出口地, 而亞馬遜河和我們的海洋 正在被破壞,被過度捕撈。 在這種狀況下, 烹飪也可以協助我們—— 不止是在秘魯,放之四海而皆準。 怎麼做? 讓烹飪成為每個家庭的中心, 成為一切的中心, 透過資訊和教育的協助。 因為有了資訊和教育之後, 我們就能做出正確的決策, 決定要煮什麼、要吃什麼, 這樣我們就能找到新的平衡, 在新的平衡中, 大家都能和諧地生活。 在健康與享樂之間的新和諧, 在小生產商和大型產業之間的新和諧, 在本地文化和環境之間的新和諧, 在本地產品和全球產品之間的新和諧。 正是因為這個理由, 我們才必須要把烹飪 放在每個家庭的中心。 因為若我們把這個訊息 帶到每一家中, 若在每一家中烹飪都能 再度擁有重要的地位, 那麽在市場中和許多其他活動中的效應 將會非常強大。
Maybe some are thinking the same thing as those other people who thought that Peruvian cuisine would never be in the hearts of people around the world. I can imagine them thinking: How can we relay to the public a message explaining that a balanced meal cooked in their home kitchen is the best tool to fight inequality and disease and to help save the environment? How can we convince politicians to write global public policies following this idea? It looks impossible. How can we achieve this? To be honest, we don't know.
也許,會有一些人 和其他那些人的想法一樣,認為 要讓秘魯菜餚在世界各地 深入人心是永遠不可能的事。 我可以想像,他們會認為: 我們要如何把訊息 傳達給大眾,解釋在家庭廚房中 自己烹煮的平衡餐點 是最好的武器, 可以對抗不平等和疾病, 並協助拯救環境? 我們要如何說服政治人物 依據這個想法來制訂 全球性的公共政策? 這看起來是不可能的。 我們要如何辦到? 老實說,我們也不知道。
(Laughter)
(笑聲)
That's the reason why, for a long time, chefs from around the world have been working together, each of us in our own field, to reach the goal of spreading this message -- and not waiting for the governments. For example, here in New York, Dan Barber, in his Blue Hill, very close to New York City, has been fighting for a long time to show that a diverse and sustainable agriculture can produce food and products of high quality at a massive scale for all families -- and they can be delicious, accessible, healthy, friendly and sustainable. Or in France, the great chef Alain Ducasse in his Hôtel Plaza Athénée, on Avenue Montaigne, the most luxurious of Paris, decided to remove meat from his menu without fearing that his sometimes capricious clients might leave -- because he's aware of the negative impact that excessive meat consumption has on the environment and is convinced that by sending a coherent discourse from his restaurant, his message can reach many more homes. Or in Peru, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, a great chef and a good friend, who goes to the farthest corner of the Amazon looking for ingredients, traditions and craftsmanship, because he believes that by bringing them back to his restaurant he can convince the 10 million inhabitants of Lima that using these products will bring prosperity to these communities, while also showing respect and giving value to their cultural identity.
這就是為什麼,長久以來, 全世界的廚師一直在同心協力, 每個人都在自己的領域中 努力將這個訊息傳達出去—— 而不是等政府來代勞。 比如,在紐約這裡, 丹 · 巴柏開了一間「藍山」餐廳, 它離紐約市非常近, 他長年來一直在奮鬥, 讓大家看到: 多樣化且永續的農業 能夠大量產出 高品質的食物和產品, 給所有的家庭—— 這些東西也可以非常好吃、 容易取得、健康、友善且永續。 或在法國,偉大主廚艾倫 · 杜卡斯 和他的「雅典娜廣場酒店」, 其位於巴黎最奢侈的 地區,蒙田大道, 他決定從菜單中移除肉類食品, 完全不害怕他那些 有時很任性的客戶 可能會離開。 因為他知道, 過度消費肉類食品對於環境 會造成負面影響, 且他深信從他的餐廳出發,以身作則, 他的訊息就能傳達到更多的家庭。 或我在秘魯的好友佩德羅 · 米格爾 · 斯基亞菲諾,一位偉大的主廚, 他去亞馬遜河最遙遠的角落, 去尋求原料、傳統以及技巧, 因為他相信,如果將 這些東西帶回他的餐廳, 他就能說服利馬的一千萬居民: 使用這些產品 能夠為這些社區帶來繁榮, 並同時對他們的文化身份 表示尊重、賦予其價值。
All over the world, chefs are joining forces thanks to their cooking, just like our parents joined at the table because of their love. Just as it happened with that generation of chefs in Peru that one day decided to work together to promote their culture. Just as it's happening now. We're convinced that we can't wait for others to do it. So we've decided to act, because thanks to the media and the popularity of the professional kitchen in the world today, as chefs, we know that we can do a lot to help spread this message of placing cooking at the center of our home. In this way, sometime in the near future, each and every family, home and person with good information can pick ingredients that will help to recuperate our health and environment, to fight inequality, and moreover, to recover that emotional peace that we need.
全世界的廚師, 透過烹飪聯合起來, 就像是我們的父母親在 餐桌上因為愛而結合。 同樣的狀況也發生在秘魯 那個世代的廚師身上, 有一天,他們決定要同心協力, 一起推動他們的文化。 正如現在所發生的這樣。 我們深信,我們絶不能傻傻 等待其他人來完成這些壯舉。 所以我們決定採取行動, 因為,要歸功於媒體 以及現今全世界 專業廚房的日益普遍, 身為廚師,我們知道我們能做很多事 來協助將這個訊息傳播開來, 希望大家把烹飪放在家庭的中心。 這麼一來,在不久的將來, 每個家庭和每個人, 只要有好的資訊, 就能夠適當選擇原料, 協助挽救我們的健康以及環境, 為了平等而戰, 此外,還能恢復我們 所需要的情緒寧靜。
This is the power of cooking, one of the most infallible tools to achieve our well-being.
這就是烹飪的力量, 若要得到幸福,烹飪絕對是 最可靠有效的工具之一。
Thank you.
謝謝。
(Applause)
(掌聲)