We're living in difficult times because, on one hand, thanks to connectivity, we can see the most beautiful sides of humanity but, on the other hand, also the ugliest: hunger, violence, war, hatred, intolerance; daily scenes that, when we come home at the end of the day, we feel that everything is kind of lost.
我们生活在困难的时代。 因为,一方面,多亏了互联网, 我们可以看见人性中最美好的一面; 但是另一方面, 也看见了最丑陋的一面: 饥饿,暴力,战争,仇恨,偏执。 日常的场景是 当我们结束一天回到家时, 感到一切都怅然若失。
But it's not, because it's precisely at home where we might find one of the most infallible tools to fight for the nutritional, emotional and environmental well-being of our planet. Where at home? Well, in the kitchen. I'll tell you why with three stories.
但是也并不一定都是这样。 因为,在家里我们可能会发现 一种最可靠的工具之一。 它可以为我们的星球 争取营养、情感和环境的福祉。 它在家的哪里呢? 在厨房。 我用三个故事来讲讲为什么。
The first one: I'm from Lima, a product of mixed bloods, as you can see: my mother, a daughter of the coastal area, aristocratic and viceregal, and my father, a son of the Andes, the Incas, from Cuzco. So in my home, the Andes and the coastal area, which are historically confrontational, ended up together because of love, as happened to most people from Lima, descendants of diverse backgrounds: Africans with people from the Amazons, Japanese with Andeans, Chinese with Italians.
第一, 我是利马人。 如你所见,我是个混血。 我妈妈来自沿海地区, 拥有官衔的贵族血统; 我爸爸来自安第斯山脉, 是库斯科的印加人。 所以,我的家庭 是历史上一直是敌人关系的 安第斯与沿海地区人一起 相爱而诞生的。 大多数的利马人血统都很多样: 非洲人和亚马逊土著, 日本人与安第斯人, 中国人与意大利人。
Like this love story, for example: the daughter of a prosperous Cantonese store owner fell in love playing on the streets of the port of Callao in Lima with the son of a famous Genovese pastry chef from Italy. In the beginning, their parents were totally against their love, so they decided to run away to create their home. It's there that they discover their biggest differences. Where? On the table. She discovers that she really loved the fried rice that her father used to make for her in the wok. And he loved his grandmother's slow-cooked risotto. She wanted to add soy sauce to everything.
就像这个爱情故事, 走在利马的卡亚俄港口的 富裕的广东店主女儿 爱上了一个意大利热那亚 出身的著名面包师的儿子。 即使起初他们的父母强烈反对, 他们还是私奔并组建了自己的家。 一起生活的两个人 开始发现两个人的不同之处。 是什么呢?就在饭桌上。 女儿发现她真的很想念 爸爸以前为她做的炒饭。 而男人想念奶奶用小火煮熟的烩饭。 女人想所有的食物都放酱油。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
And he wanted to add Parmesan cheese to everything.
男人想所有的食物都放帕尔马奶酪。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
In the end, they come to an agreement: They cook their rice in the wok, but they slow cook it.
最后,两个人达成一致: 用炒锅做饭, 可是用小火来烩。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
They add a little bit of Parmesan cheese and a little bit of soy sauce. And a new dish is born: the Peruvian rice with seafood, which has a little bit from one, and a little bit from the other -- like all the dishes in our cuisine with that magical seal of a Peru that, for many centuries, received millions of people who had the dream of building their lives in our country. They were not received in ghettos or separated, but integrated, joined together, and, at least in the kitchen, learned to build bountiful bridges of love and peace. The message from Peru is clear: nothing bad can happen to us; only good things will occur when we embrace our diversity.
放一点帕尔玛奶酪, 又放一点酱油。 就这样,新的料理诞生了: 就是秘鲁海鲜饭, 取一点点这个,也取一点点那个—— 就像我们所有的菜式, 带有一种秘鲁的魔法印记, 代表着数世纪以来, 接受了数百万人们,他们怀揣着 在我们国家创造自己生活的梦想。 他们并没有被送到贫民区, 或者被隔离, 而是被整合,融合到一起, 而且,至少在厨房里, 学习建造了一座座爱与和平的桥梁。 秘鲁的信息非常明确: 包容多样性并没有不好的; 只有好事情发生。
The second story is about me, a chef. I started my training in Paris, as a student, where I also had the good fortune of meeting my wife, Astrid, who I convinced to come to Peru, to make our dream come true: a small restaurant, a nice restaurant that would support our family. This was our first restaurant: Astrid and Gastón. This was the 90s, and during the 90s -- as was happening with cuisines across most of the world -- we were living under the influence of the French haute cuisine, in a world where the local public would also always prefer anything that came from abroad, rather than from our own land. Maybe that's the reason why when we came home, even though we had a lot of customers every day, we didn't feel fulfilled.
第二个是作为厨师的我的故事。 我在巴黎作为学生开始学习烹饪, 在那我非常幸运得遇到了 我的老婆,阿斯特丽德, 我说服了她来到了秘鲁, 来实现我们的梦想:开一个小饭馆, 一个可以维持我们家庭生活的 漂亮的饭馆。 这是我们的第一个饭馆,叫做 Astrid and Gastón 。 当时是九十年代, 而那时候——和世界 大部分地方的烹饪状况一样—— 我们受到法国高级烹饪法的影响, 在这里,相比本地食物, 当地居民总是更喜欢外国的食物。 有可能因为这个缘故, 虽然每天来我们饭店的人非常多, 回到家我们还是感觉不满足。
We'd hear that little voice saying: "Does it make sense to have a French restaurant, run by a German and a Peruvian, in a city that is not in France, but in Peru?"
我们好像听到很小的声音在说: 一个德国人和一个秘鲁人 在秘鲁,而不是法国 开一个法国菜馆, 这样有什么意义?
(Laughter)
(笑声)
The answer would come years later, at the beginning of this century, when two important events took place. First, the world was becoming connected through internet. As a result, countries started to value the diversity of their people, and Peru was one of them. Second, the Peruvian economy began to experience a steady growth after the defeat of the Shining Path. It was the perfect timing for my generation of cooks and chefs to begin to work together; to move past egos, vanities and distrust, and to remove any competition between us in order to work for those who didn't have a voice: the cooks in the corners, the cooks in the markets, the small farmers in the Amazon, in the Andes, on the coast, the artisanal fishermen on the Pacific -- all historically forgotten or underappreciated. Thanks to this movement, we began to envision an opportunity to build a space of mutual trust, an environment of trust that would allow us to work toward collective goals that were much more important and transcendental. Thanks to this movement, we started to imagine a Peruvian cuisine that would bring a new message of a magical and seductive Peru to the world, with Peruvian restaurants that spread all over the world transformed into vibrant embassies promoting our culture and our products every day and convincing the world's tourists to come and visit Peru.
过了几年,在二十一世纪初 我才找到了答案, 因为这时候发生了两件重要的事情。 第一,因为互联网这个世界连接为一了。 结果就是,各个国家 开始重视人们的多样性, 而秘鲁就是其中之一。 第二,秘鲁共产党被击败了之后, 秘鲁的经济也逐渐开始稳步增长。 对于我们这代的厨师来说, 正是个完美的时机。 我们开始合作, 摆脱过去的自负、虚荣和不信任, 消除我们彼此间的竞争。 为了那些曾经无法发声的人们努力: 街角的厨师们,市场里的厨师们, 亚马逊,安第斯, 沿岸地区的小规模农民们, 太平洋的渔夫们—— 所有被历史遗忘 和被低估的人们。 多亏这些变化, 我们开始预见了这样一个机遇, 可以创建互相信任的空间, 一个允许我们朝着更为 重要和超越的集体目标努力的 充满信任的环境。 也多亏了这个举动, 我们开始想象这样的秘鲁烹饪, 带给世界一个新的, 神奇而诱人的秘鲁。 秘鲁的餐厅会在全世界各个地方, 成为一个个充满活力的领事馆, 把秘鲁的文化与商品介绍给大家, 吸引全世界的观光客们来到秘鲁。
In the beginning, as it usually happens, they thought we were crazy utopians. "Ceviche? As important as a French dish?"
当然一开始, 人们以为我们是疯狂的空想主义者。 “酸橘汁腌鱼?(秘鲁菜) 那玩意和法国料理一样重要?”
(Laughter)
(笑声)
"Using our cooking, an insignificant and day-to-day event, as a tool to promote the image of our country to the world, or as a key to unify a nation?"
“用烹饪—— 一个微不足道的日常行为 来向全世界宣传国家形象? 或者作为国家统一的关键?”
"No, that's impossible," they'd say.
“不,不可能。”,很多人说。
But, it happened. Today, the Peruvian cuisine is in people's hearts all over the world. Thanks to that, something very important happened -- even more important than the presence of ceviche today on menus of famous restaurants in Paris; or that Peruvian cuisine is now, without doubt, at the same level as those other great cuisines of the world; or that Lima has become a hotspot for tourists thanks to the virtues of its gastronomy, creating opportunities and jobs for many people.
然而,它确实发生了。 现在秘鲁烹饪存在于 全世界人们的心中。 多亏于此, 重要的事发生了,甚至重要于 在巴黎餐馆菜单上出现酸橘汁腌鱼, 或者秘鲁餐馆如今毋庸置疑 与世界上其他伟大的烹饪旗鼓相当, 或者由于美食的优势 利马已经成为了旅游热门, 那就是,它为很多人 创造了工作与机遇。
The most important thing that we achieved was to build a deep sense of confidence and belief in our identity, and a space of union amongst Peruvians that moves us when we see our cuisine recognized around the world. It's true that for a long time, we were told that it'd be better if we denied our origins -- that to be valued, we must act like Europeans or Americans. As a result, full of fear, we hid this love from our parents, to protect it. But finally, today we can celebrate proudly, with confidence and in peace, our multicultural identity. The message in this second story also emphasizes the idea that cooking can be a tool for happiness and well-being if we embrace our multicultural identity.
我们最重要的成就是 为我们的身份树立了 深刻的信心和信念, 并且,当我们看到 我们的烹饪被世界认可时, 秘鲁人之间的团结使我们感动。 的确,很长一段时间, 我们被告知要否定自己的出身, 而被看重的, 是我们必须得像 欧洲人或者北美人行事。 结果,由于害怕, 我们向父母隐瞒了这份热爱, 为了守护它。 而如今,我们终于可以 伴随着自信,在和平中 自豪地庆祝我们多元文化的身份。 第二个故事也强调了这一点, 当拥抱我们的多元文化身份时, 烹饪可以是令我们快乐和幸福的工具。
The third story does not bring very good news. From the Industrial Revolution until now, we have been forced into a lifestyle that prompts us to consume products we don't really need. Products that are also cut off from the rational use of our ingredients and environment -- but that marketing campaigns have led us to believe we couldn't happily live without them. Today, for example, this has culminated in more people dying due to obesity than due to hunger. In developed cities, more people die by suicide than by crime. In the case of Peru, despite a growing economy, there's malnutrition and anemia in places that export their own food, while the Amazon and our seas are being destroyed and overfished. Here is where cooking can help us again -- not just in Peru, but all over the world. How? By placing cooking at the heart of our homes, at the center of everything, with information and education. Because with information and education, we can make the right decisions about what to cook and what to eat so we can find a new balance, in which we can all live in harmony. A new harmony between health and enjoyment, between small producers and the big industries, between the local culture and the environment, between local products and universal products. That's precisely the reason why we have to place cooking at the heart of our homes. Because if we take this message to every home, if cooking becomes important again in each home, the effects in the market and in many other activities would be massive and powerful.
第三个故事并没有带来太好的消息。 工业革命以后, 我们被迫进入一种生活方式, 促使我们消费 我们并非真正需要的产品。 那些产品 并不使用合理的材料,不考虑环境, 然而市场营销者们让我们相信 如果不用那个产品, 我们就没法幸福地生活。 如今,比如说,这点已经导致 更多人由于肥胖而不是饥饿而死。 在发达的都市里, 更多的人死于自杀,而非犯罪。 以秘鲁为例, 尽管经济正在增长, 但在出口自己的食物的地方 出现了营养不良和贫血的问题, 而亚马逊河和我们的海洋 正在被破坏和过度捕捞。 这时候烹饪又可以帮助我们—— 这不止于秘鲁,乃至全世界。 该怎么做呢? 让我们视烹饪为家庭的中心, 所有事情的中心, 再加上信息与教育。 通过正确的信息与教育, 我们可以就烹饪和饮食 做出正确的决定, 我们能找到使所有人 和谐生存的新的平衡。 在健康与快乐之间的平衡, 小规模生产者与 大规模产业间的平衡, 当地文化和环境的平衡, 当地商品与进口商品间的平衡。 这正是我们 让烹饪成为家庭的核心的原因。 如果各个家庭接收到这个信息, 如果烹饪再次成为每个家庭重要的部分, 这对市场与其他活动的影响力 是非常强大的。
Maybe some are thinking the same thing as those other people who thought that Peruvian cuisine would never be in the hearts of people around the world. I can imagine them thinking: How can we relay to the public a message explaining that a balanced meal cooked in their home kitchen is the best tool to fight inequality and disease and to help save the environment? How can we convince politicians to write global public policies following this idea? It looks impossible. How can we achieve this? To be honest, we don't know.
有人可能会这么想, 就像以前也有人这么想过, 秘鲁烹饪永远不会 进入全世界人民的心中。 我可以想象他们的想法: 我们可以怎样回复大众 来解释在家里烹饪的 一个均衡的膳食 是击败不平等与疾病 并且还能保护环境的最好的武器? 我们得怎样才能说服政治家们 按照这个想法书写全球公共策略? 好像不可能啊。 得怎么办? 说实话,我们也不知道。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
That's the reason why, for a long time, chefs from around the world have been working together, each of us in our own field, to reach the goal of spreading this message -- and not waiting for the governments. For example, here in New York, Dan Barber, in his Blue Hill, very close to New York City, has been fighting for a long time to show that a diverse and sustainable agriculture can produce food and products of high quality at a massive scale for all families -- and they can be delicious, accessible, healthy, friendly and sustainable. Or in France, the great chef Alain Ducasse in his Hôtel Plaza Athénée, on Avenue Montaigne, the most luxurious of Paris, decided to remove meat from his menu without fearing that his sometimes capricious clients might leave -- because he's aware of the negative impact that excessive meat consumption has on the environment and is convinced that by sending a coherent discourse from his restaurant, his message can reach many more homes. Or in Peru, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, a great chef and a good friend, who goes to the farthest corner of the Amazon looking for ingredients, traditions and craftsmanship, because he believes that by bringing them back to his restaurant he can convince the 10 million inhabitants of Lima that using these products will bring prosperity to these communities, while also showing respect and giving value to their cultural identity.
全世界的厨师为了找答案, 从以前开始就齐心合作, 在各自的位置, 不再等待政府的作为, 而是我们自己发出声音。 例如,这位纽约的厨师 丹·堡本(Dan Barber), 在纽约附近的他自己的蓝山餐厅, 从很久前就开始了战斗, 展示了一个多样化和可持续的农业 可以为许多家庭 大规模生产高质量的食品和产品—— 而且是美味,方便,健康, 友好且可持续的。 另一个例子,在巴黎蒙田大道上 豪华雅典娜广场酒店的伟大厨师, 奥尔伦 · 迪卡斯(Alain Ducasse), 决定在他的菜单上去掉了肉类, 他一点也不害怕时而反复无常的客户 可能会离开—— 因为他意识到过多的肉类消耗对环境 会有不好的影响, 深信通过从他的餐厅传递这样的信息, 他的想法会传到更多家庭。 在秘鲁,我的好朋友、好厨师, 培德路 · 米凯尔 · 斯皮雅皮奴 (Pedro Miguel Schiaffino), 为了寻找食材,传统和工艺, 竟然去到了亚马逊最远的角落, 因为他相信如果把这些带到他的餐厅, 可以说服数千万利马人们 使用这些食材 将为这些社区带来繁荣, 同时为他们的文化认同感 表示尊重并赋予价值。
All over the world, chefs are joining forces thanks to their cooking, just like our parents joined at the table because of their love. Just as it happened with that generation of chefs in Peru that one day decided to work together to promote their culture. Just as it's happening now. We're convinced that we can't wait for others to do it. So we've decided to act, because thanks to the media and the popularity of the professional kitchen in the world today, as chefs, we know that we can do a lot to help spread this message of placing cooking at the center of our home. In this way, sometime in the near future, each and every family, home and person with good information can pick ingredients that will help to recuperate our health and environment, to fight inequality, and moreover, to recover that emotional peace that we need.
在世界各地, 大厨们的烹饪使他们齐心协力, 就像我们的父母因为爱 一起坐在餐桌上。 就像秘鲁那一代厨师一样 某一天决定共同努力, 弘扬自己的文化。 就像现在正在发生的一样。 我们坚信无法再等待其他人开始做。 所以,我们决定行动, 由于媒体的发达 和当今世界上专业厨房的普及, 作为厨师,我们知道可以做很多 来帮助传播将烹饪 放在我们家中心的信息。 这样,不久的将来, 每个家和个人, 都能够以正确的信息 选择能改善我们健康与环境的食材, 消除不平等, 更能恢复我们所需的那种情感和平。
This is the power of cooking, one of the most infallible tools to achieve our well-being.
这就是烹饪的力量, 实现我们福祉的最可靠工具之一。
Thank you.
谢谢。
(Applause)
(掌声)