I went to Spain a few months ago and I had the best foie gras of my life. The best culinary experience of my life. Because what I saw, I'm convinced, is the future of cooking. Ridiculous, right? Foie gras and the future of cooking. There's not a food today that's more maligned than foie gras, right? I mean, it's crucified. It was outlawed in Chicago for a while. It's pending here in California, and just recently in New York. It's like if you're a chef and you put it on your menu, you risk being attacked. Really, it happened here in San Francisco to a famous chef.
几个月前我去了趟西班牙 在那里我吃到了今生吃过最好吃的鹅肝酱 这是我一生中最美妙的饮食经验 因为我相信我看到了饮食文化的未来 莫名其妙,对吗? 鹅肝酱和饮食文化的未来 在今日的饮食文化中,没有比鹅肝酱更敏感的话题了 几乎没人敢碰 在芝加哥甚至有一阵子是违法的 加利福尼亚州还没有决定,纽约刚公布法令 感觉像是如果一个厨师把鹅肝酱放上菜单 就有被攻击的危险 真的,它才刚发生在旧金山一位知名厨师身上
I'm not saying that there's not a rationale for being opposed to foie gras. The reasons usually just boil down to the gavage, which is the force feeding. Basically you take a goose or a duck and you force feed a ton of grain down its throat. More grain in a couple of weeks than it would ever get in a lifetime. Its liver expands by eight times. Suffice to say it's like -- it's not the prettiest picture of sustainable farming.
我不是说反对鹅肝酱 是不合理的 人们反对的是强制喂食 你抓着鹅,或是鸭 然后把大量的谷物往它脖子里倒 这两个礼拜的谷物等于它们一生的食量 于是它们的肝脏胀大了八倍 简单来说,这不是一个美好的景象
The problem for us chefs is that it's so freakin' delicious. (Laughter) I mean, I love the stuff. It is fatty, it's sweet, it's silky, it's unctuous. It makes everything else you put it with taste incredible. Can we produce a menu that's delicious without foie gras? Yes, sure. You can also bike the Tour de France without steroids, right? (Laughter) Not a lot of people are doing it. And for good reason. (Laughter)
问题是,对厨师来说,它实在超级无敌好吃 (笑声) 我是说,我爱死它了 它油而不腻,带着丝般的甜味 它让所有东西都变得好吃 我们可以创造一个零鹅肝的可口菜单吗? 当然可以 就像你也可以不使用类固醇参加环法自行车赛啊 (笑声) 没什么人这样做 这是有原因的 (笑声)
So several months ago, a friend of mine sent me this link to this guy, Eduardo Sousa. Eduardo is doing what he calls natural foie gras. Natural foie gras. What's natural about foie gras? To take advantage of when the temperature drops in the fall, geese and ducks gorge on food to prepare for the harsh realities of winter. And the rest of the year they're free to roam around Eduardo's land and eat what they want. So no gavage, no force feeding, no factory-like conditions, no cruelty.
几个月前,有个朋友介绍一个人给我 Eduardo Sousa。 Eduardo 做得是全天然的肥鹅肝 全天然的肥鹅肝 肥鹅肝有可能是天然的吗? 他等到秋天天气变冷时 鹅和鸭开始大量进食 为冬天做准备 其它时候它们漫游在 Eduardo 的农场上 随意吃自己喜欢的 没有任何的强制喂食 没有工厂、残忍虐待
And it's shockingly not a new idea. His great-granddad started -- Patería de Sousa -- in 1812. And they've been doing it quietly ever since. That is until last year, when Eduardo won the Coup de Coeur, the coveted French gastronomic prize. It's like the Olympics of food products. He placed first for his foie gras. Big, big problem. As he said to me, that really pissed the French off. (Laughter) He said it sort of gleefully.
这是个惊人的新做法 从他的曾祖父开始 - Patria de Sousa 从1812年开始,他们不动声色地这样做 直到去年 当 Eduardo 赢了法国厨艺界的 ”一见钟情“奖 那是食材的奥林匹克奖 他得到鹅肝酱的第一名 问题大了 他告诉我,法国人非常生气 (笑声) 他愉快地告诉我
It was all over the papers. I read about it. It was in Le Monde. "Spanish chef accused ... " -- and the French accused him. "Spanish chef accused of cheating." They accused him of paying off the judges. They implicated actually, the Spanish government, amazingly. Huh, amazing. A huge scandal for a few weeks. Couldn't find a shred of evidence. Now, look at the guy. He doesn't look like a guy who's paying off French judges for his foie gras. So that died down, and very soon afterward, new controversy. He shouldn't win because it's not foie gras. It's not foie gras because it's not gavage. There's no force feeding. So by definition, he's lying and should be disqualified.
它占满了报纸头条 我也读到了。在世界报上 ”西班牙厨师被控告……“法国人控告他 “西班牙厨师被控告有作弊嫌疑” 他们怀疑他收买了评审 他们暗示这是西班牙政府做的 惊人吧 这个巨大的丑闻持续了几个礼拜 没人能找到证据 看看他 他怎么也不像一个会拿钱收买法国评审的人 为了他的鹅肝酱 风波慢慢平息,很快地 新的争议出现了 他不能赢因为那不是鹅肝酱 因为他没有使用强制喂食法 所以那不能算是鹅肝酱 因为定义不同,他说了谎而且应该取消资格
As funny as it sounds, articulating it now and reading about it -- actually, if we had talked about it before this controversy, I would have said, "That's kind of true." You know, foie gras by definition, force feeding, it's gavage, and that's what you get when you want foie gras. That is, until I went to Eduardo's farm in Extremadura, 50 miles north of Seville, right on the Portugal border. I saw first-hand a system that is incredibly complex and then at the same time, like everything beautiful in nature, is utterly simple. And he said to me, really from the first moment, my life's work is to give the geese what they want. He repeated that about 50 times in the two days I was with him. I'm just here to give the geese what they want. Actually, when I showed up he was lying down with the geese with his cell phone taking pictures of them like his children in the grass. Amazing. He's really just in love with -- he's at one with -- he's the goose whisperer. (Laughter)
虽然现在想想,或读到会觉得有点好笑 事实上,如果我们在争议发生前谈论此事 我会说,那不是真的 鹅肝酱一定得使用强制喂食法 这就是你吃鹅肝酱所得到的 直到我去了 Eduardo 位在艾斯马度华的农场 在塞维尔50英里的北方,葡萄牙边境 我亲眼见到一个非常复杂的系统 同时也非常美丽而自然 它非常简单 他告诉我,从我见到他的第一刻起 我只是给这些鹅它们想要的 在我与他在一起的这两天,他重复了50次 我只是给这些鹅它们想要的 事实上,我到的时候他正躺在地上 用手机拍摄他的鹅 像他在草地上的孩子 非常神奇。 他深爱着这些 - 他就是 所谓的“从一鹅终” (笑声)
And when I was speaking to him, you know, I thought, like I'm speaking to you now, right, but sort of in the middle of my questions, my excited questions, because the more I got to know him and his system, the more exciting this whole idea became. He kept going like this to me. And I thought, OK, excited Jew from New York, right? I'm talking a little too aggressively, whatever, so you know, I slowed down. And finally, by the end of the day I was like, Ed-uar-do, you know like this? But he was still going like this. I figured it out. I was speaking too loudly. So I hushed my voice. I kind of like asked these questions and chatted with him through a translator in kind of a half whisper. And he stopped doing this. And amazingly, the geese who were on the other side of the paddock when I was around -- "Get the hell away from this kid!" -- when I lowered my voice, they all came right up to us. Right up to us, like right up to here. Right along the fence line.
当我和他谈话的时候,你知道 就像我现在和你说话一样 但在我兴奋地向他提问的时候 因为我越认识他和他的姐妹 我就越对这个新知感到兴奋 他多我做这个动作 我想,哦,一个来自纽约的兴奋犹太人 或许我有点太激进了,但没关系 于是我慢了下来 终于,在一天快结束时,我说 Eduardo,这是什么意思? 但他仍然做着一样的动作 我终于懂了 我说话太大声了 于是我降低声音 我经过一个翻译员,问他这些问题 轻声细语地 他不再做这个手势了 神奇的是,那些刚刚站得离我们很远的鹅 “不要靠近那些孩子!” 当我降低声音,它们围了上来 围到了这里 沿着栅栏线
And fence line was amazing in itself. The fence -- like this conception of fence that we have it's totally backward with him. The electricity on this fiberglass fence is only on the outside. He rewired it. He invented it. I've never seen it. Have you? You fence in animals. You electrify the inside. He doesn't. He electrifies only the outside. Why? Because he said to me that he felt like the geese -- and he proved this actually, not just a conceit, he proved this -- the geese felt manipulated when they were imprisoned in their little paddocks. Even though they were imprisoned in this Garden of Eden with figs and everything else. He felt like they felt manipulated. So he got rid of the electricity, he got rid of current on the inside and kept it on the outside, so it would protect them against coyotes and other predators.
连栅栏线本身也很神奇 我们概念里的栅栏 与他的概念正好是相反的 玻璃纤维栅栏上 是向外的一圈通电 于是他重新设计发明 我从来没有看过,你有吗? 你把动物围住,向内通电 他不是 他把栅栏外面通电 为什么? 因他说他认为这些鹅 这不只是一个想法,他证明了 当这些鹅住在栅栏中,它们会感觉自己被监禁 就算是被监禁在这个伊甸园一样美好的地方 到处都是无花果 他认为它们感觉自己受控 于是他把电关掉 把向内的电流关上 只保留了向外的电流 让通电栅栏可以保护它们不受小野狼和其它天敌
Now, what happened? They ate, and he showed me on a chart, how they ate about 20 percent more feed to feed their livers. The landscape is incredible. I mean, his farm is incredible. It really is the Garden of Eden. There's figs and everything else there for the taking. And the irony of ironies is because Extremadura, the area -- what does Extremadura mean? Extra hard land, right? Extra difficult. Extra hard. But over four generations, he and his family have literally transformed this extra hard land into a tasting menu. Upgrades the life for these geese. And they are allowed to take whatever they want.
然后呢? 它们大吃。他给我看图表 它们多吃了百分之二十,喂肥它们的肝 这景色非常神奇 他的牧场非常神奇 感觉就像伊甸园一样 有无花果和其它食物供应 讽刺中的讽刺是,这个叫艾斯马度华的地方 艾斯马度华是什么意思? 艾斯马度华是“硬地”的意思 非常坚硬的土地。 但在他的家庭住了四代以后 这块“硬地”变成了可口的菜单 鹅的生活改善了 它们可以随心所欲的吃自己想吃的
Another irony, the double irony is that on the figs and the olives, Eduardo can make more money selling those than he can on the foie gras. He doesn't care. He lets them take what they want and he says, "Usually, it's about 50 percent. They're very fair." The other 50 percent, he takes and he sells and he makes money on them. Part of the income for his farm. A big part of his income for his farm. But he never controls it. They get what they want, they leave the rest for me and I sell it.
还有另一个意外 那些拿来喂鹅的无花果和橄榄 如果 Eduardo 卖掉它们 会比肥鹅肝本身更值钱 但他不在乎 他让它们想吃什么就吃什么,他说 ”大概会吃掉一半吧,它们很公平的。“ 他把另外的一半卖掉赚钱 他牧场收入的一部分 很大的一部分 但他从来不控制那些鹅 它们可以吃自己想吃的 我再把它们留给我的卖掉
His biggest obstacle, really, was the marketplace, which demands these days bright yellow foie gras. That's how I've been trained. You want to look and see what good foie gras is, it's got to be bright yellow. It's the indication that it's the best foie gras. Well, because he doesn't force feed, because he doesn't gavage tons of corn, his livers were pretty grey. Or they were. But he found this wild plant called the Lupin bush. The Lupin bush, it's all around Extremadura. He let it go to seed, he took the seeds, he planted it on his 30 acres, all around. And the geese love the Lupin bush. Not for the bush, but for the seeds. And when they eat the seeds, their foie gras turns yellow. Radioactive yellow. Bright yellow. Of the highest quality foie gras yellow I've ever seen. (Laughter)
他最大的困难在市场 市场需求是又黄又亮的鹅肝酱 我也是被这样训练的 如果你要知道好的鹅肝酱是什么样子 一定得是亮黄色的 它证明那是最好的鹅肝酱 因为他不强制喂食 因为他不强喂大量的玉米 他的鹅肝酱是灰色的 应该说,本来是 他后来找到了一种叫羽扁豆的野生植物 艾斯马度华上到处都是这种羽扁豆 他等它结种,他取得种子以后 把它种在附近30公顷的土地上 鹅非常喜欢羽扁豆 不是它的叶子,而是它的种子 当它们吃下这些种子,鹅肝便变黄 荧光黄 亮黄色 我见过最好的肥鹅肝黄 (笑声)
So I'm listening to all this, you know, and I'm like, is this guy for real? Is he making some of this up? Is he like, you know -- because he seemed to have an answer for everything, and it was always nature. It was never him. And I was like, you know, I always get a little, like, weirded out by people who deflect everything away from themselves. Because, really, they want you to look at themselves, right? But he deflected everything away from his ingenuity into working with his landscape.
我听着他说,心想 他是说真的吗?还是编出来的? 他好像有一切解答 而且永远保持天然 而不是人造。 我有点 - 你知道 我总觉得那些对成果却之不恭的人很奇怪 他们要的不是自我表现吗? 但他从未提到他对他的农场 所做的这些独出心裁的发明
So it's like, here I am, I'm on the fence about this guy, but increasingly, eating up his every word. And we're sitting there, and I hear [clapping] from a distance, so I look over. And he grabs my arm and the translator's, and ducks us under a bush and says, "Watch this." "Shush," he says again for the 500th time to me. "Shush, watch this." And this squadron of geese come over. [Clapping] And they're getting louder, louder, louder, like really loud, right over us. And like airport traffic control, as they start to go past us they're called back -- and they're called back and back and back. And then they circle around. And his geese are calling up now to the wild geese. [Clapping] And the wild geese are calling down. [Clapping] And it's getting louder and louder and they circle and circle and they land. And I'm just saying, "No way." (Laughter) No way.
我就坐在那里,有些狐疑的 但渐渐地被说服 我们就坐在那里,我听见不远处……的声音 他抓住我和翻译员的手臂 拉着我们躲到树丛里,他说“你看。” “嘘!”他再次提醒我 “嘘,你看。“ 一队鹅飞了过来 (击掌) 声音越来越大,越来越大,就在我们后方 当它们飞跃我们,感觉就像站在飞机跑道上 它们被叫了回来 - 被一次次地叫了回来 它们绕着飞 他的鹅呼唤着野鹅 (击掌) 野鹅被叫了下来 (击掌) 它们绕着绕着,越来越大声 然后它们降落 我心想,”这怎么可能。“ (笑声) 怎么可能。
And I look at Eduardo, who's near tears looking at this, and I say, "You're telling me that your geese are calling to the wild geese to say come for a visit?" And he says, "No, no, no. They've come to stay." They've come to stay? (Laughter) It's like the DNA of a goose is to fly south in the winter, right? I said that. I said "Isn't that what they're put on this Earth for? To fly south in the winter and north when it gets warm?" He said, "No, no, no. Their DNA is to find the conditions that are conducive to life. To happiness. They find it here. They don't need anything more." They stop. They mate with his domesticated geese, and his flock continues. Think about that for a minute. It's brilliant, right? Imagine -- I don't know, imagine a hog farm in, like, North Carolina, and a wild pig comes upon a factory farm and decides to stay. (Laughter)
我看着 Eduardo,他眼眶含泪 我说“你是说你的鹅在跟这些野鹅说 来拜访我们一下?” 他说“不,不 它们是来住的。” 它们要留在这里? (笑声) 野鹅的基因应该是冬天往南飞啊 我说,“这不是就是它们来到世界上的目的吗? 冬天往南,温暖再往北飞?” 他说,“不,不,不。 它们的基因是为自己找到一个 快乐生存的方法 它们在这里找到了 它们一无所缺了。” 它们留下。它们和他的家鹅交配 他的鹅群继续着 想一想 这不是很妙吗? 想象在一个猪棚中 在北卡罗来纳州好了 野猪跑进了一个农业工厂 决定定居 (笑声)
So how did it taste? I finally got to taste it before I left. He took me to his neighborhood restaurant and he served me some of his foie gras, confit de foie gras. It was incredible. And the problem with saying that, of course, is that you know, at this point it risks hyperbole really easily. And I'd like to make a metaphor, but I don't have one really. I was drinking this guy's Kool-Aid so much, he could have served me goose feathers and I would have been like, this guy's a genius, you know? I'm really in love with him at this point.
究竟吃起来怎样呢? 在我离开前我终于品尝到了 他带我去附近的一家餐厅 他给了我一些鹅肝酱 那真是太美妙了。 这么说的问题在 听上去可能有些夸张 我很希望有个合适的比喻,但我没有 我喝了太多他给我灌的迷汤 他就算给我吃鹅毛我也会说 这家伙是个天才,你知道 我那时简直爱上他了
But it truly was the best foie gras of my life. So much so that I don't think I had ever really had foie gras until that moment. I'd had something that was called foie gras. But this was transformative. Really transformative. And I say to you, I might not stick to this, but I don't think I'll ever serve foie gras on my menu again because of that taste experience with Eduardo. It was sweet, it was unctuous. It had all the qualities of foie gras, but its fat had a lot of integrity and a lot of honesty.
但那的确是我吃过最好吃的鹅肝 到了一种,我认为我从来没有真正吃过鹅肝 只是一些叫做鹅肝的东西 那改变了我,真的改变了我 我对各位说,虽然有可能不会履行 但我想我不会再把鹅肝放到菜单上 因为和 Eduardo 的那次美食经验 它甜美,不油腻 它拥有肥鹅肝该有的一切 但这些脂肪里却充满着诚实和尊严
And you could taste herbs, you could taste spices. And I kept -- I said, you know, I swear to God I tasted star anise. I was sure of it. And I'm not like some super taster, you know? But I can taste things. There's 100 percent star anise in there. And he says, "No." And I ended up like going down the spices, and finally, it was like, OK, salt and pepper, thinking he's salted and peppered his liver. But no. He takes the liver when he harvests the foie gras, he sticks them in this jar and he confits it. No salt, no pepper, no oil, no spices. What?
你可以吃到香草,你可以吃到香料 我发誓我吃到了八角茴香 我很确定 我不是那种舌头很灵的人,你知道 但我还是尝得出来 我百分之百确定那里有八角茴香的味道 他说“没有。“ 我努力尝出不同香料 终于,我说,好,盐和胡椒 想着他应该在鹅肝里放了盐和胡椒吧 但没有 它把肥鹅肝拿出来 放进罐子里 做浓缩,渍料处理 没有盐,没有胡椒,没有油,没有香料 没有香料?
We went back out for the final tour of the farm, and he showed me the wild pepper plants and the plants that he made sure existed on his farm for salinity. He doesn't need salt and pepper. And he doesn't need spices, because he's got this potpourri of herbs and flavors that his geese love to gorge on. I turned to him at the end of the meal, and it's a question I asked several times, and he hadn't, kind of, answered me directly, but I said, "Now look, you're in Spain, some of the greatest chefs in the world are -- Ferran Adria, the preeminent chef of the world today, not that far from you. How come you don't give him this? How come no one's really heard of you?" And it may be because of the wine, or it may be because of my excitement, he answered me directly and he said, "Because chefs don't deserve my foie gras." (Laughter) And he was right. He was right.
我们最后一次回到农庄 他给我们看那些野生的胡椒 以及他种来保持土地咸度的植物 他不需要盐或胡椒 也不需要香料,因为他的鹅就吃他 种的这些混合香草 饭后我转向他 问他一个我反复问他 他却没有正面回答的问题 我说“你在西班牙, 这里有全世界最好的厨师 Ferran Adria,当代最好的厨师,就在你附近 为什么你没有给他这个? 为什么你默默无名?” 可能是因为酒的关系 可能是因为我的兴奋 他直接回答我说:因为厨师配不上我的肥鹅肝。 (笑声) 他说的是对的 是对的
Chefs take foie gras and they make it their own. They create a dish where all the vectors point at us. With Eduardo it's about the expression of nature. And as he said, I think fittingly, it's a gift from God, with God saying, you've done good work. Simple. I flew home, I'm on the flight with my little black book and I took, you know, pages and pages of notes about it. I really was moved. And in the corner of one of these -- one of my notes, is this note that says, when asked, what do you think of conventional foie gras? What do you think of foie gras that 99.99999 percent of the world eats? He said, "I think it's an insult to history." And I wrote, insult to history. I'm on the plane and I'm just tearing my hair out. It's like, why didn't I follow up on that? What the hell does that mean? Insult to history.
厨师们用肥鹅肝做自己想要的 把它变成一道菜。 但我们今天所得到的这一切 都是 Eduardo 力求天然的成果 他说 这是来自上天的礼物,上天说:你做得好。 就是这样。 在回程飞机上,我打开我黑色的小笔记本 里面写满了一页又一页的笔记 我非常感动 在这些笔记的其中一个角落 我写道,当他被问到对于 今日一般人所吃的肥鹅肝 那些世界上百分之99.99999 的人所吃的肥鹅肝有什么意见? 他说“我认为那是污辱历史。” 我写着:对历史的污辱。 我在飞机上感觉悔恨万分 为什么我没追问下去? 他为什么这么说? 对历史的污辱
So I did some research when I got back, and here's what I found. The history of foie gras. Jews invented foie gras. True story. True story. By accident. They were looking for an alternative to schmaltz. Gotten sick of the chicken fat. They were looking for an alternative. And they saw in the fall that there was this natural, beautiful, sweet, delicious fat from geese. And they slaughtered them, used the fat throughout the winter for cooking. The Pharaoh got wind of this -- This is true, right off the Internet. The Pharaoh got -- (Laughter) I swear to God. (Laughter) The Pharaoh got wind of this and wanted to taste it. He tasted it and fell in love with it. He started demanding it.
于是我回去着手做了一些研究 这些是我找到的资料 肥鹅肝的历史 犹太人发明了肥鹅肝 千真万确 千真万确 是意外发现的 他们在找鸡油的替代品 因为吃腻了鸡油 他们开始找寻一些替代品 在秋天的时候他们发现了这全天然 甜美,可口的鹅脂肪 他们把鹅杀了,整个冬天就用这油来煮 法老听说了 这千真万确,我从互联网上找的 法老听 (笑声) 我对神发誓 (笑声) 埃及法老听说了,想要尝尝看 他尝了,爱上了这个滋味 他开始要求厨房提供给他
And he didn't want it just in the fall, he wanted it all year round. And he demanded that the Jews supply enough for everyone. And the Jews, fearing for their life, had to come up with an ingenious idea, or at least try and satisfy the Pharaoh's wishes, of course. And they invented, what? Gavage. They invented gavage in a great moment of fear for their lives, and they provided the Pharaoh with gavage liver, and the good stuff they kept for themselves. Supposedly, anyway. I believe that one.
不止在秋天,他全年都要 他要求犹太人要让每个人都能吃到 担心自己生命安全的犹太人 想出了一个前所未有的点子 尝试满足埃及法老的要求 他们发明了 - 强喂法 他们是在生命威胁下发明强喂法的 他们把喂肥了的肝献给埃及法老 然后把好的部分留下给自己 应该是,至少我相信
That's the history of foie gras. And if you think about it, it's the history of industrial agriculture. It's the history of what we eat today. Most of what we eat today. Mega-farms, feed lots, chemical amendments, long-distance travel, food processing. All of it, our food system. That's also an insult to history. It's an insult to the basic laws of nature and of biology. Whether we're talking about beef cattle or we're talking about chickens, or we're talking about broccoli or Brussels sprouts, or in the case of this morning's New York Times, catfish -- which wholesale are going out of business.
这就是肥鹅肝的来源 如果我们思考 农业产业化的历史 就是我们今日食物的历史 今天我们所吃的食物大部分都是 巨型农场、集体喂食、化学改良 长距离的运送过程,工厂处理 全在我们的食物系统里 这也是对历史的污辱 对自然法则的污辱 以及对生物的污辱 无论是肉牛 鸡 花椰菜或是抱子甘蓝 或是今天早上纽约时报的报导 - 鲶鱼 的批发商的经营失利
Whatever it is, it's a mindset that is reminiscent of General Motors. It's rooted in extraction. Take more, sell more, waste more. And for the future it won't serve us. Jonas Salk has a great quote. He said, "If all the insects disappeared, life on Earth as we know it would disappear within 50 years. If human beings disappeared, life on Earth as we know it would flourish."
无论如何,这就像通用汽车 都是需索无度 拿取,贩卖,浪费 在未来这些都不再存在 Jonas Saik 说过一金句 他说“如果所有昆虫消失 我们所知道的地球万物在50年内会全部消失, 如果人类消失,地球万物会蓬勃生长。”
And he's right. We need now to adopt a new conception of agriculture. Really new. One in which we stop treating the planet as if it were some kind of business in liquidation. And stop degrading resources under the guise of cheap food. We can start by looking to farmers like Eduardo. Farmers that rely on nature for solutions, for answers, rather than imposing solutions on nature. Listening as Janine Benyus, one of my favorite writers and thinkers about this topic says, "Listening to nature's operating instructions." That's what Eduardo does, and does so brilliantly. And what he showed me and what he can show all of us, I think, is that the great thing for chefs, the great blessing for chefs, and for people that care about food and cooking, is that the most ecological choice for food is also the most ethical choice for food. Whether we're talking about Brussels sprouts or foie gras. And it's also almost always, and I haven't found an example otherwise, but almost always, the most delicious choice. That's serendipitous. Thank you. (Applause)
他是对的 我们需要接受一种新的农业概念 完全崭新 我们不能再把地球 当作一个几乎破产的公司 停止利用便宜食物之名来 浪费资源 我们可以以 Eduardo 这样的农夫为例子 农夫靠天吃饭 靠自然提供答案 与其勉强自然接受人为的解答 我最喜欢的作家和思想家 Janine Benyus 这么说 “遵照自然的使用说明” 这就是 Eduardo 所达成的 他显示给我们我们在场每个人,包括我,看的 对厨师和那些关系食物和厨艺的人们 来说最好的事是 最符合自然的食物选择 也是最符合伦理道德的食物选择 无论我们讨论的是抱子甘蓝还是肥鹅肝 几乎总是,我从未发现其它可能 这也是最美味的选择 浑然天成。 谢谢。 (掌声)