Hi. My name is Cameron Russell, and for the last little while, I've been a model. Actually, for 10 years. And I feel like there's an uncomfortable tension in the room right now because I should not have worn this dress.
Hai, nama saya Cameron Russell dan selama beberapa tahun ini, saya merupakan seorang peragawati. Sebenarnya, untuk 10 tahun. Saya rasa ada sedikit ketegangan dalam dewan ini sekarang kerana saya tak sepatutnya pakai gaun ini.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
So luckily, I brought an outfit change. This is the first outfit change on the TED stage, so you guys are pretty lucky to witness it, I think. If some of the women were really horrified when I came out, you don't have to tell me now, but I'll find out later on Twitter.
Nasib baik saya ada bawa baju salin. Pertama kali, ada babak salin baju di pentas TED. Jadi, saya kira anda agak beruntung untuk saksikannya. Jika ada wanita yang takut bila saya tampil, tak perlu cakap sekarang sebab saya akan temuinya nanti di Twitter.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
I'd also note that I'm quite privileged to be able to transform what you think of me in a very brief 10 seconds. Not everybody gets to do that. These heels are very uncomfortable, so good thing I wasn't going to wear them. The worst part is putting this sweater over my head, because that's when you'll all laugh at me, so don't do anything while it's over my head. All right.
Saya juga sedar yang saya agak bernasib baik kerana dapat mengubah apa yang anda fikirkan terhadap saya dalam masa sesingkat 10 saat. Bukan semua orang dapat lakukannya. Kasut tumit tinggi ini sangat tak selesa, lebih baik saya tanggalkannya. Bahagian paling teruk ialah memakai baju panas ini sebab anda akan gelakkan saya Jadi, jangan buat apa-apa semasa ia di kepala saya. Baik.
So, why did I do that? That was awkward.
Jadi, kenapa saya buat begitu? Ia terasa janggal.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
Well --
Jadi--
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
Hopefully not as awkward as that picture. Image is powerful, but also, image is superficial. I just totally transformed what you thought of me, in six seconds. And in this picture, I had actually never had a boyfriend in real life. I was totally uncomfortable, and the photographer was telling me to arch my back and put my hand in that guy's hair. And of course, barring surgery, or the fake tan that I got two days ago for work, there's very little that we can do to transform how we look, and how we look, though it is superficial and immutable, has a huge impact on our lives.
Harapnya tidak sejanggal gambar itu. Imej sangat hebat. Namun, imej juga sekadar luaran. Saya baru sahaja berubah kepada apa yang anda fikirkan dalam masa 6 saat. Dan dalam gambar ini, saya tak pernah ada langsung teman lelaki sebenarnya. Saya sangat tak selesa dan jurugambar tetap suruh saya untuk lentikkan badan dan letakkan tangan pada rambut lelaki itu. Selain pembedahan dan tan palsu yang saya dapatkan dua hari yang lalu untuk kerja, tak banyak dapat kita ubah rupa kita. Walaupun rupa paras itu cumalah luaran dan tidak berubah, tapi ia mempunyai impak yang besar dalam hidup kita.
So today, for me, being fearless means being honest. And I am on this stage because I am a model. I am on this stage because I am a pretty, white woman, and in my industry, we call that a sexy girl. I'm going to answer the questions that people always ask me, but with an honest twist.
Hari ini bagi saya, jadi tidak takut itu bermaksud menjadi jujur. Dan saya berada di pentas ini kerana saya seorang peragawati. Saya di pentas ini kerana saya orang putih yang cantik. Dalam industri saya, kami gelarnya wanita seksi. Saya akan menjawab persoalan yang sering ditanyakan tapi dengan kejujuran.
So the first question is, how do you become a model? I always just say, "Oh, I was scouted," but that means nothing. The real way that I became a model is I won a genetic lottery, and I am the recipient of a legacy, and maybe you're wondering what is a legacy. Well, for the past few centuries we have defined beauty not just as health and youth and symmetry that we're biologically programmed to admire, but also as tall, slender figures, and femininity and white skin. And this is a legacy that was built for me, and it's a legacy that I've been cashing out on. And I know there are people in the audience who are skeptical at this point, and maybe there are some fashionistas who are like, "Wait. Naomi. Tyra. Joan Smalls. Liu Wen." And first, I commend you on your model knowledge. Very impressive.
Soalan pertama adalah bagaimanakah anda menjadi peragawati? Selalunya saya jawab "Oh, saya ditawarkan," tapi itu tak menjelaskan apa-apa. Cara sebenar saya jadi peragawati adalah disebabkan genetik dan warisan. Mungkin anda tertanya-tanya apakah warisan tersebut? Beberapa abad yang lepas, kecantikan ditentukan bukan sekadar sihat atau awet muda atau dilahirkan berwajah simetri yang dikagumi tetapi juga merangkumi tubuh yang tinggi lampai, bersifat kewanitaan dan berkulit putih Inilah warisan yang dibina untuk saya yang saya mendapat keuntungan daripadanya. Saya tahu ada antara audiens yang ragu-ragu dengan kenyataan ini dan mungkin ada sesetengah fesyenista yang berkata "Tapi Naomi, Tyra, Joan Smalls, Liu Wen." Saya memuji pengetahuan anda tentang peragawati. Sangat hebat.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
But unfortunately, I have to inform you that in 2007, a very inspired NYU Ph.D. student counted all the models on the runway, every single one that was hired, and of the 677 models that were hired, only 27, or less than four percent, were non-white.
Tapi malangnya, saya perlu maklumkan anda yang pada tahun 2007, seorang pelajar kedoktoran yang hebat dari NYU, telah mengira kesemua model di pentas peragaan. Dalam 677 orang peragawati yang diambil bekerja, hanya 27 orang atau kurang daripada 4% bukan orang putih.
The next question people always ask is, "Can I be a model when I grow up?" And the first answer is, "I don't know, they don't put me in charge of that." But the second answer, and what I really want to say to these little girls is, "Why? You know? You can be anything. You could be the President of the United States, or the inventor of the next Internet, or a ninja cardiothoracic surgeon poet, which would be awesome, because you'd be the first one."
Soalan seterusnya yang sering orang tanyakan ialah "Bolehkah saya jadi peragawati bila besar nanti?" Jawapan pertama ialah, "Saya tak tahu. Bukan saya yang menguruskannya." Tapi jawapan kedua, yang saya begitu mahu beritahu kepada gadis-gadis ini ialah "Kenapa? Awak tahu? Awak boleh jadi apa sahaja. Awak boleh jadi Presiden Amerika Syarikat atau pencipta internet seterusnya, atau doktor pakar bedah jantung ninja pemuisi, yang hebat kerana anda yang pertama."
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
If, after this amazing list, they still are like, "No, no, Cameron, I want to be a model," well, then I say, "Be my boss." Because I'm not in charge of anything, and you could be the editor in chief of American Vogue or the CEO of H&M, or the next Steven Meisel. Saying that you want to be a model when you grow up is akin to saying that you want to win the Powerball when you grow up. It's out of your control, and it's awesome, and it's not a career path.
Jika selepas apa yang diberitahu ini, mereka masih berkata "Tidak Cameron. Saya mahu jadi peragawati" Saya akan balas, "Jadilah majikan saya." Sebab bukan saya yang uruskannya. Kamu boleh jadi ketua penyunting bagi American Vogue atau ketua eksekutif H&M atau Steven Meisel seterusnya. Dengan mengatakan yang anda mahu jadi peragawati bila dewasa adalah sama seperti mahu memenangi loteri apabila meningkat dewasa Ia adalah luar kawalan anda dan ianya bagus, dan ianya bukan laluan kerjaya.
I will demonstrate for you now 10 years of accumulated model knowledge, because unlike cardiothoracic surgeons, it can just be distilled right now. So, if the photographer is right there, the light is right there, like a nice HMI, and the client says, "We want a walking shot," this leg goes first, nice and long, this arm goes back, this arm goes forward, the head is at three quarters, and you just go back and forth, just do that, and then you look back at your imaginary friends, 300, 400, 500 times.
Saya akan tunjukkan anda, pengalaman 10 tahun saya kerana tidak seperti pakar bedah jantung, ianya boleh dilakukan sekarang. Jadi, jika jurugambar di sana, pencahayaan pula di situ, contohnya HMI dan klien cakap "Kami mahukan syot berjalan," Kaki akan melangkah dulu dan tangan ke belakang dan satu lagi ke depan, kepala dipalingkan dan bergerak ke depan dan ke belakang Buat begini dan pandang ke arah kawan khayalan anda. 300, 400 dan 500 kali.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
It will look something like this.
Ia akan tampak seperti ini.
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
Hopefully less awkward than that one in the middle. That was -- I don't know what happened there.
Harapnya kurang janggal daripada yang di tengah. Saya pun tidak tahu apa yang berlaku di sana.
Unfortunately, after you've gone to school, and you have a résumé and you've done a few jobs, you can't say anything anymore, so if you say you want to be the President of the United States, but your résumé reads, "Underwear Model: 10 years," people give you a funny look.
Malangnya, selepas anda habis persekolahan, ada resume,sudah lakukan beberapa pekerjaan anda tiada apa lagi untuk diperkatakan. Jika anda cakap yang anda mahu jadi presiden Amerika Syarikat, tapi di resume tertulis, 'Model Pakaian Dalam: 10 tahun' orang akan mentertawakan anda
The next question is, "Do they retouch all the photos?" And yeah, they pretty much retouch all the photos, but that is only a small component of what's happening. This picture is the very first picture that I ever took, and it's also the very first time that I had worn a bikini, and I didn't even have my period yet. I know we're getting personal, but I was a young girl. This is what I looked like with my grandma just a few months earlier. Here's me on the same day as this shoot. My friend got to come. Here's me at a slumber party a few days before I shot French Vogue. Here's me on the soccer team and in V Magazine. And here's me today. And I hope what you're seeing is that these pictures are not pictures of me. They are constructions, and they are constructions by a group of professionals, by hairstylists and makeup artists and photographers and stylists and all of their assistants and pre-production and post-production, and they build this. That's not me.
Soalan seterusnya adalah, "Adakah gambar dicantikkan?" Ya, boleh kata kesemua gambar dicantikkan. Tapi itu cuma komponen kecil daripada apa yang berlaku. Ini gambar saya yang diambil buat pertama kalinya. Juga buat pertama kali, saya pakai pakaian renang Ketika itu juga, saya masih belum datang haid. Saya sedar ianya sedikit peribadi tapi saya masih kecil ketika itu. Inilah rupa saya bersama nenek beberapa bulan sebelumnya Ini saya pada hari yang sama, gambar ini dirakamkan. Kawan saya perlu ikut saya. Ini saya di parti tidur beberapa hari sebelum penggambaran French Vogue Ini pula dalam pasukan bola sepak untuk Majalah V. Dan ini saya sekarang. Saya harap anda nampak yang gambar-gambar ini adalah bukan gambar saya. Ia hanyalah ciptaan, yang dicipta oleh sekumpulan profesional, penggaya rambut, artis solekan, jurugambar, penggaya, dan kesemua pembantu mereka, sebelum dan selepas produksi Mereka buat semua ini. Ini bukan saya.
Okay, so the next question people always ask me is, "Do you get free stuff?"
Baik, soalan seterusnya yang selalu orang tanya "Adakah awak dapat barangan percuma?"
(Laughter)
(Ketawa)
I do have too many 8-inch heels which I never get to wear, except for earlier, but the free stuff that I get is the free stuff that I get in real life, and that's what we don't like to talk about.
Saya ada banyak sangat kasut tumit tinggi tapi tak sempat untuk dipakai semua kecuali yang tadi. Benda percuma yang saya dapat ialah yang benar-benar percuma di realiti sebab itulah kami tidak suka bercakap tentang ini.
I grew up in Cambridge, and one time I went into a store and I forgot my money and they gave me the dress for free. When I was a teenager, I was driving with my friend who was an awful driver and she ran a red and of course, we got pulled over, and all it took was a "Sorry, officer," and we were on our way. And I got these free things because of how I look, not who I am, and there are people paying a cost for how they look and not who they are.
Saya membesar di Cambridge dan pernah sekali saya pergi ke kedai tapi lupa bawa duit dan mereka beri saya sehelai gaun percuma. Semasa remaja, saya pernah menaiki kereta dengan kawan dia pemandu yang teruk dan telah melanggar lampu merah. Kami diberhentikan. Saya cuma ucapkan "Maaf, encik!" dan serta-merta kami terlepas. Saya dapat benda percuma semata-mata kerana rupa saya, bukan kerana siapa saya dan ada orang menanggung akibat daripada rupa mereka, bukan kerana siapa mereka.
I live in New York, and last year, of the 140,000 teenagers that were stopped and frisked, 86% of them were black and Latino, and most of them were young men. And there are only 177,000 young black and Latino men in New York, so for them, it's not a question of, "Will I get stopped?" but "How many times will I get stopped? When will I get stopped?" When I was researching this talk, I found out that of the 13-year-old girls in the United States, 53% don't like their bodies, and that number goes to 78% by the time that they're 17.
Saya tinggal di New York dan pada tahun lepas, seramai 140,000 remaja telah ditahan dan diperiksa. 86% adalah orang kulit hitam dan orang Latin Kebanyakannya para pemuda Hanya seramai 177,00 orang sahaja lelaki kulit hitam dan Latin di New York. Bagi mereka, "Saya akan ditahankah?" adalah bukan soalan tapi "Berapa kali saya akan ditahan? Bilakah saya akan ditahan?" Semasa saya buat kajian untuk syarahan ini, saya menemui gadis berumur 13 tahun di Amerika Syarikat, 53% daripadanya tidak suka badan mereka dan jumlahnya meningkat ke 78% apabila berumur 17 tahun.
So, the last question people ask me is, "What is it like to be a model?" And I think the answer that they're looking for is, "If you are a little bit skinnier and you have shinier hair, you will be so happy and fabulous." And when we're backstage, we give an answer that maybe makes it seem like that. We say, "It's really amazing to travel, and it's amazing to get to work with creative, inspired, passionate people." And those things are true, but they're only one half of the story, because the thing that we never say on camera, that I have never said on camera, is, "I am insecure." And I'm insecure because I have to think about what I look like every day. And if you ever are wondering, "If I have thinner thighs and shinier hair, will I be happier?" you just need to meet a group of models, because they have the thinnest thighs, the shiniest hair and the coolest clothes, and they're the most physically insecure women probably on the planet.
Baik, soalan terakhir yang orang tanyakan ialah "Apa rasanya jadi peragawati?" Saya rasa jawapan yang mereka mahukan ialah "Kalau kamu kurus dan ada rambut yang berkilau, mesti kamu gembira dan seronok." apabila di belakang pentas, kami bagi jawapan yang lebih kurang begitu. Kami cakap "Ianya sangat hebat dapat melancong dan bekerja dengan orang yang kreatif, bermotivasi dan bersemangat." Perkara itu benar tapi ia cuma separuh daripada kisah kerana perkara yang kami tidak pernah beritahu, yang saya tak pernah beritahu depan kamera ialah "Saya rasa tergugat." Saya tergugat kerana terpaksa fikir tentang rupa saya setiap hari. Jika anda pernah tertanya-tanya "Gembirakah saya, kalau ada paha yang kecil dan rambut yang berkilau?" Anda perlu berjumpa dengan sekumpulan peragawati, kerana mereka ada paha paling kecil, rambut paling berkilau,baju tercantik dan secara fizikal mereka mungkin wanita yang paling tergugat di planet.
When I was writing this talk, I found it very difficult to strike an honest balance, because on the one hand, I felt very uncomfortable to come out here and say, "Look I've received all these benefits from a deck stacked in my favor," and it also felt really uncomfortable to follow that up with, "and it doesn't always make me happy." But mostly it was difficult to unpack a legacy of gender and racial oppression when I am one of the biggest beneficiaries.
Semasa menulis syarahan ini, saya rasa sangat susah untuk seimbangkan kejujuran kerana pada masa yang sama, saya berasa sangat tidak selesa untuk berkata "Tengok. Saya dapat semua ini berkat hasil titik peluh saya," Saya juga rasa tidak selesa untuk teruskan berkata "dan Ia tak selalunya buat saya gembira." Tapi selalunya ia susah untuk hapuskan warisan jantina dan penindasan kaum bilamana saya antara pewaris terbesar.
But I'm also happy and honored to be up here and I think that it's great that I got to come before 10 or 20 or 30 years had passed and I'd had more agency in my career, because maybe then I wouldn't tell the story of how I got my first job, or maybe I wouldn't tell the story of how I paid for college, which seems so important right now.
Tapi saya juga gembira kerana dapat berada di sini dan saya rasa baguslah yang saya datang sebelum 10,20 atau 30 tahun berlalu di mana saya sudahpun bekerja di banyak agensi kerana saya mungkin tidak dapat ceritakan cara saya dapatkan kerja atau cara saya cari duit untuk belajar yang dianggap sangat penting pada masa kini.
If there's a takeaway to this talk, I hope it's that we all feel more comfortable acknowledging the power of image in our perceived successes and our perceived failures.
Jika syarahan ini sudah selesai, saya harap kita semua lebih selesa untuk akui kesan imej kepada gambaran kejayaan. dan kegagalan kita.
Thank you.
Sekian.
(Applause)
(Tepukan)