Sustainability represents the what, the where and the how of what is caught. The who and the why are what's important to me. I want to know the people behind my dinner choices. I want to know how I impact them. I want to know how they impact me. I want to know why they fish. I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty for their living. Understanding all of this enables us to shift our perception of seafood away from a commodity to an opportunity to restore our ecosystem. It allows for us to celebrate the seafood that we're also so fortunate to eat.
永續性是指 捕撈什麼、在哪裡捕撈, 以及怎麼去捕撈那東西。 對我來說,誰在捕撈以及為什麼捕撈是很重要的。 我想知道在我的晚餐料理背後的那些人。 我想知道我對他們會有怎樣的影響。 我想知道他們會如何影響我。 我想知道為什麼他們要捕魚。 我想知道他們有多麼依賴大海的賜予 藉以謀生。 了解這些可以讓我們 將我們對於海鮮的認知 從單純的商品 轉變為可以讓生態系統 回復的機會。 了解這些可以讓我們慶幸 自己還能吃到海鮮。
So what do we call this? I think we call it restorative seafood. Where sustainability is the capacity to endure and maintain, restorative is the ability to replenish and progress. Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean as a resource, suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean and to encourage its resiliency. It is a more hopeful, it is a more human, and is a more useful way of understanding our environment.
所以,我們該稱之為什麼呢? 我想我們該稱之為恢復性海鮮。 永續性是指 可以持續並進行修補的能力, 恢復性則是指可以補充並增加的能力。 恢復性海鮮可以產生一個不停演化進展的系統, 並且讓海洋能夠 變成我們的一種資源, 促使我們去讓海洋得以補充, 增加它的恢復力。 這是一種比較有希望、比較人道, 也比較有效的方式來了解我們的環境。
Wallet guides -- standard issue by lots in the marine conservation world -- are very handy; they're a wonderful tool. Green, yellow and red lists [of] seafood species. The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red, think twice about yellow. But in my mind, it's really not enough to just eat green list. We can't sustain this without the measure of our success really changing the fate of the species in the yellow and the red. But what if we eat only in the green list? You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here -- comes from sustainable stocks. Pole caught -- no bycatch. Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies. But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.
消費指南 -- 是由 世界海洋保護組織所制定的標準 -- 相當方便,是很棒的工具書。 用綠色、黃色和紅色來標示海鮮種類。 很簡單的概念:買綠色的,不要買紅色的, 想買黃色的時候要三思。 但是對我來說, 只吃綠色的作法還是不夠。 如果無法確認這樣能成功的改變 那些黃色和紅色魚種的命運, 就無法保持其永續性。 但是如果我們只吃綠色標示的魚呢? 這裡有專門捕撈的黃鰭金槍魚 -- 來自於永續性放養池中。 專門捕撈 -- 不是被誤補的。 對於漁民而言很棒。可以賺很多錢。可以促進地方經濟。 但是它是海裡的獅子。它是頂層掠食者。
What's the context of this meal? Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this? Do I do this three times a week? I might still be in the green list, but I'm not doing myself, or you, or the oceans any favors. The point is that we have to have a context, a gauge for our actions in all this. Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health -- antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy. That's great! I love red wine! I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy. Well, how many bottles is it before you tell me that I have a problem? Well folks, we have a protein problem. We have lost this sensibility when it regards our food, and we are paying a cost. The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves. We are hiding that cost behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines. And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits.
這一餐的含意是什麼? 我會到牛排館點一份16盎司的黃鰭金槍魚嗎? 我會每個禮拜吃三次嗎? 也許我仍然在吃綠色標示的魚, 但是對我、對你, 或是對海洋來說都沒有好處。 重點是我們必須有一個概念, 對於我們所做的事情要有一個標準。 舉例來說:我聽說紅酒對健康很好 -- 有抗氧化劑和礦物質 -- 對心臟很好。 太棒了!我愛紅酒! 我要喝很多紅酒。我會變得非常健康。 那麼,在我喝出問題之前, 我可以喝多少瓶? 朋友們,我們有個關於蛋白質的問題。 當它牽涉到食物時, 我們會失去對它的敏感度, 而我們會因此付出代價。 問題是,我們將這代價隱藏在這種風潮之下。 我們將這代價 隱藏在社會接受腰圍變粗的現象之後。 我們將這代價隱藏在巨大商業利益之後。
So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood is that it really takes into account our needs. Restorative seafood might best be represented not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman, but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant. Vegetables: they might yet save the oceans. Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green. Well I'd like to respectfully submit that broccoli green might then be the new blue. We must continue to eat the best seafood possible, if at all. But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables. The best part about restorative seafood though is that it comes on the half-shell with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges. It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf with crunchy, grilled broccoli so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside with just a hint of chili flake. Whooo! This is an easy sell. And the best part is all of those ingredients are available to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.
所以,關於恢復性海鮮第一件事, 是必須了解我們真正需要的數量。 恢復性海鮮的最佳代表, 不是大白鯊、海豚或Gordon海鲜食品, 而是綠巨人。 也就是各種蔬菜: 它們也許能夠拯救海洋。 Sylvia 喜歡說藍色是新的綠色。 那麼,我想尊敬地提出, 花椰菜的綠色也許是新的藍色。 我們必須持續地 去吃能吃到最好的海鮮。 但是我們也必須配著大量的蔬菜一起吃。 雖然這些恢復性海鮮最棒的吃法是 用一半的貝殼將它裝盛上桌, 再配上一瓶TABASCO辣椒醬和檸檬片。 一份五盎司的鯛魚, 用 Dijon 芥末醬和烤得酥脆的土司碎片包覆著, 加上一份山核桃藜麥燴飯 搭配著酥脆的花椰菜, 外表是如此柔軟、甜美又帶點略焦的煙燻色澤, 再加上一點點的辣椒片。 哇! 這肯定會熱賣。 最棒的是這些材料 在每個家庭附近的超級市場都買得到。
Jamie Oliver is campaigning to save America from the way we eat. Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans from the way we eat. There's a pattern here. Forget nuclear holocaust; it's the fork that we have to worry about. We have ravaged our Earth and then used the food that we've sourced to handicap ourselves in more ways than one. So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong. And so I think it's time we change what we expect from our food. Sustainability is complicated but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand. So let's start there.
Jamie Oliver 正在發起一個 藉由改變飲食習慣的活動來拯救美國。 Sylvia 正在發起一個 藉由飲食習慣的活動來拯救海洋。 這是一個很好的典範。 先忘記核子戰爭的災難; 我們要擔心的不只是那件事。 我們已經破壞了地球生態, 還將我們視為天然資源的食物 在許多方面上困擾著我們自己。 所以我認為我們的飲食習慣是不對的。 因此,我想現在正是時候 我們該改變我們對食物原有的看法。 永續性是相當複雜的, 但晚餐對我們來說是比較能掌握的部分, 所以讓我們從這兒開始。
There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems. Dan Barber and Alice Waters are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution. But green foods often represent a way for us to disregard the responsibility as eaters. Just because it comes from a green source doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate. We have eco-friendly shrimp. We can make them; we have that technology. But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet. It doesn't work. Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part of restorative seafood. While we try to manage declining marine populations, the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood. Studies say that tens of thousands of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers might be around for another birthday if we included more seafood. That's a reward I am not willing to pass up. But it's not all about the seafood. It's about the way that we look at our plates.
最近,針對綠化我們的飲食系統有相當大的進展。 Dan Barber 和 Alice Waters 正在熱烈地提倡一種美味綠色食物革命。 但是綠色食物常常會代表一種 我們忽視了 身為飲食者的責任。 即使它來自於綠色資源, 並不代表我們可以隨便將它放到餐盤上。 我們有環保蝦。 我們有技術可以生產環保蝦。 但是不可能出現那種提供環保蝦吃到飽自助餐廳。 這是不可行的。 有益心臟健康的晚餐, 是恢復性海鮮重要的一部份。 正當我們試著去控制海洋生物數量減少的問題時, 媒體還在建議大家多吃海鮮。 各種研究告訴大家, 成千上萬的美國祖父母和父母們, 可能可以活得更久, 只要我們多吃海鮮。 這是我不想錯過的好事。 但是這不單只是和海鮮有關。 這還關係著我們怎麼看待我們餐盤裡的食物。
As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do is reduce the portion sizes on my plate. A couple things happened. I made more money. People started buying appetizers and salads, because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone. People spent more time engaging in their meals, engaging with each other over their meals. People got, in short, more of what they came there for even though they got less protein. They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal. They got healthier. I made more money. This is great. Environmental consideration was served with every plate, but it was served with a heaping mound of consideration for human interests at the same time.
身為一個廚師,對我來說最簡單的作法, 就是減少餐盤裡面食物的量。 幾件事情會隨之而生。 我會賺更多的錢。 人們開始購買開胃菜和沙拉, 因為他們知道只有主菜是吃不飽的。 人們會花更多時間在用餐上面, 藉由用餐而和別人有更多交流。 簡單來說,人們來這兒會得到比他們想要的還更多, 即使他們會攝取較少的蛋白質。 但他們在吃下各種餐點的過程中會獲得更多熱量。 他們會更健康,我賺更多的錢。 真是太棒了。 每道菜在上桌之前都先評估過對環境的影響, 同時,也考慮到許多 關於人們利益的部份。
One of the other things we did was begin to diversify the species that we served -- small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon. Shellfish, mussels, oysters, clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species. We were directing tastes towards more resilience, more restorative options. This is what we need to favor. This is what the green list says. But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.
我們所做的另外一件事是, 將我們所提供的食材種類多樣化 -- 小銀魚、鯷魚、鯖魚、沙丁魚都很常見。 貝類、蚌類、牡蠣、 蛤蠣、鯛魚、嘉魚 -- 這些都是常見的魚類。 我們讓這些口味 傾向比較有彈性、比較具有恢復性的選擇。 這是我們應該偏好的選擇。 這才是綠色標示的意義。 這也是我們開始讓環境恢復的方法。
But what of those big predators, those fashionable species, that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier? Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you. It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean, so here we go. Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish. Get a knife. Cut it into four portions. Put it on four plates. Mound up those four plates with vegetables and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have, light the candles and celebrate it. Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this. Invite your friends and neighbors over and repeat once a year, maybe.
至於那些大型掠食者, 那些很流行的魚類, 剛剛所提到在綠色標示中的金槍魚呢? 如果你一定要吃的話,我有一份食譜可以提供給你。 它適用於各種海洋中的大魚, 開始嚕。 首先拿一隻16盎司的大魚。 用刀將它切成四份。 分別放到四個盤子上。 把四個盤子都裝滿蔬菜, 然後開一瓶你現有最棒的勃艮第紅葡萄酒, 點起蠟燭來慶祝。 慶幸你有這個機會來吃它。 邀請你的朋友或鄰居來享用, 每年舉辦一次, 也許啦。
I expect a lot from food. I expect health and joy and family and community. I expect that producing ingredients, preparing dishes and eating meals is all part of the communion of human interests. I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook. And he taught me very early on about the privilege that eating represents. I remember well the meals of my childhood. They were reasonable portions of protein served with copious quantities of vegetables and small amounts of starch, usually rice. This is still how I largely eat today. I get sick when I go to steakhouses. I get the meat sweats. It's like a hangover from protein. It's disgusting. But of all the dire news that you'll hear and that you have heard about the state of our oceans, I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you possibly the very worst of it and that is this whole time your mother was right. Eat your vegetables. It's pretty straightforward.
我對食物的期待很多。 我期望健康, 期望家庭與社區的歡樂。 我希望製作食材原料, 準備餐盤和用餐這些事情, 都是人們共同利益的一部分。 我很幸運,我的父親是一位很棒的廚師。 他很早就開始教導我 飲食所代表的權利。 我記得很清楚兒時用餐的內容。 總是有適量的蛋白質搭配著 大量的蔬菜, 以及少量的澱粉,通常是米飯。 這依然是我每天的主食。 每次去牛排館時,我就會不舒服。 我會出現肉類盜汗症。 那就像是蛋白質引起的宿醉, 感覺很噁心。 但是關於那些未來你將會聽見, 以及你現在已經聽見那些海洋不好的消息, 我有責任讓大家知道, 狀況可能會有多糟糕, 也就是今天所說過的內容, 你的媽媽是正確的。 多吃蔬菜吧。 就是這麼簡單。
So what are we looking for in a meal? Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients that are good for my body. For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt and sexy things that make things taste less like penance. For family, I'm looking for recipes that genuflect to my own personal histories. For community though, we start at the very beginning. There's no escaping the fact that everything we eat has a global impact. So try and learn as best you can what that impact is and then take the first step to minimize it. We've seen an image of our blue planet, our world bank. But it is more than just a repository of our resources; it's also the global geography of the communion we call dinner. So if we all take only what we need, then we can begin to share the rest, we can begin to celebrate, we can begin to restore. We need to savor vegetables. We need to savor smaller portions of seafood. And we need to save dinner.
那麼,我們在食物中找尋的是什麼? 為了健康,我在找尋那些 對我身體有益的健康成份。 為了開心,我在找尋奶油、鹽、 以及美味的東西,讓東西吃起來不會太糟糕。 為了家人,我在找尋合乎 我個人經歷的食譜。 為了社區,雖然我們已經開始努力了。 事實上沒有例外, 我們所吃的每一樣東西都有全球性的影響。 所以,試著學習去了解這影響會是什麼, 然後開始試著去將它降到最低。 我們已經看見我們這個藍色的地球, 這個世界銀行的景象。 但它不僅是我們自己的資源儲藏室; 它也是全球在進行 食物交流的地方。 所以如果我們只拿取我們所需要的部份, 我們就可以將剩餘的和大家分享, 我們可以開始去慶祝, 資源也將得以恢復。 我們要多吃蔬菜, 我們要少吃一點海鮮。 我們必須將食物節省下來。
Thank you.
謝謝大家。
(Applause)
(掌聲)