Sustainability represents the what, the where and the how of what is caught. The who and the why are what's important to me. I want to know the people behind my dinner choices. I want to know how I impact them. I want to know how they impact me. I want to know why they fish. I want to know how they rely on the water's bounty for their living. Understanding all of this enables us to shift our perception of seafood away from a commodity to an opportunity to restore our ecosystem. It allows for us to celebrate the seafood that we're also so fortunate to eat.
Održivost predstavlja što, gdje i kako onoga što je ulovljeno. Tko i zašto su meni važni. Želim znati tko su ljudi iza mojih odabira večera. Želim znati kako utječem na njih. Želim znati kako oni utječu na mene. Želim znati zašto love ribu. Želim znati kako se oni oslanjaju na izobilje vode za njihov život. Shvaćanje svega toga nam omogućuje da promijenimo našu percepciju morske hrane od onoga što je roba na priliku da ponovno uspostavimo naš ekosustav. Dozvoljava nam da slavimo morsku hranu koju imamo sreće jesti.
So what do we call this? I think we call it restorative seafood. Where sustainability is the capacity to endure and maintain, restorative is the ability to replenish and progress. Restorative seafood allows for an evolving and dynamic system and acknowledges our relationship with the ocean as a resource, suggesting that we engage to replenish the ocean and to encourage its resiliency. It is a more hopeful, it is a more human, and is a more useful way of understanding our environment.
Dakle, kako to zovemo? Mislim kako to zovemo okrepljujuća morska hrana. Gdje je održivost kapacitet da izdržimo i sačuvamo, okrepljujuće je sposobnost da napunimo i napredujemo. Okrepljujuća morska hrana nam dozvoljava evoluirajući i dinamički sustav i da priznamo našu povezanost s oceanom kao resursom, predlažući da se uključimo u punjenje oceana i da ohrabrimo njegovu upornost. To je više obećavajući, to je ljudskiji i to je korisniji način shvaćanja našeg okoliša.
Wallet guides -- standard issue by lots in the marine conservation world -- are very handy; they're a wonderful tool. Green, yellow and red lists [of] seafood species. The association is very easy: buy green, don't buy red, think twice about yellow. But in my mind, it's really not enough to just eat green list. We can't sustain this without the measure of our success really changing the fate of the species in the yellow and the red. But what if we eat only in the green list? You've got pole-caught yellowfin tuna here -- comes from sustainable stocks. Pole caught -- no bycatch. Great for fishermen. Lots of money. Supporting local economies. But it's a lion of the sea. It's a top predator.
Vodiči za novčanike -- standardna serija mnogih u svijetu konzervacija morskog svijeta -- su vrlo praktničan, oni su prekrasan alat. Zeleni, žuti i crveni prikazuju vrste morske hrane. Asocijacija je vrlo laka: kupite zelene, nemojte kupovati crvene, dvaput razmislite o žutima. Ali u mojim mislima, nije zapravo samo dovoljno jesti zelenu listu. Ne možete to održati bez mjere našeg uspjeha koja doista mijenja sudbinu vrsta u žutom i crvenom. Ali što ako jedemo samo sa zelene liste? Ovdje imate pritkom ulovljenu žutorepu tunu -- dolazi iz održivih zaliha. Pritkom ulovljena -- nije slučajno uhvaćena u mrežu. Odlično za ribiče. Mnogo novca. Podrška lokalnim ekonomijama. Ali to je lav mora. To je vrhovni predator.
What's the context of this meal? Am I sitting down in a steakhouse to a 16-ounce portion of this? Do I do this three times a week? I might still be in the green list, but I'm not doing myself, or you, or the oceans any favors. The point is that we have to have a context, a gauge for our actions in all this. Example: I've heard that red wine is great for my health -- antioxidants and minerals -- heart healthy. That's great! I love red wine! I'm going to drink so much of it. I'm going to be so healthy. Well, how many bottles is it before you tell me that I have a problem? Well folks, we have a protein problem. We have lost this sensibility when it regards our food, and we are paying a cost. The problem is we are hiding that cost beneath the waves. We are hiding that cost behind the social acceptance of expanding waistlines. And we are hiding that cost behind monster profits.
Koji je kontekst ovog obroka? Sjedam li ja u restoran s odrescima na porciju ovoga od 450 grama? Radim li to tri puta na tjedan? Još bih uvijek mogao biti na zelenoj listi, ali ne radim ni sebi ni vama ni oceanima ikakve usluge. Poanta je kako moramo imati kontekst, mjerilo za naše akcije u svemu tome. Primjer: Čuo sam kako je crveno vino odlično za moje zdravlje -- antioksidanti i minerali -- zdravo za srce. To je odlično! Volim crveno vino! Popit ću ga puno. Biti ću tako zdrav. Pa, koliko boca je potrebno prije nego mi kažete kako imam problem? Pa ljudi, mi imamo proteinski problem. Izgubili smo tu osjetljivost kada dolazimo do naše hrane i sada plaćamo cijenu za to. Problem je kako skrivamo taj trošak ispod valova. Skrivamo taj trošak iza društvene prihvaćenosti širenja strukova. I skrivamo taj trošak iza čudovišnih profita.
So the first thing about this idea of restorative seafood is that it really takes into account our needs. Restorative seafood might best be represented not by Jaws, or by Flipper, or the Gordon's fisherman, but rather, by the Jolly Green Giant. Vegetables: they might yet save the oceans. Sylvia likes to say that blue is the new green. Well I'd like to respectfully submit that broccoli green might then be the new blue. We must continue to eat the best seafood possible, if at all. But we also must eat it with a ton of vegetables. The best part about restorative seafood though is that it comes on the half-shell with a bottle of Tabasco and lemon wedges. It comes in a five-ounce portion of tilapia breaded with Dijon mustard and crispy, broiled breadcrumbs and a steaming pile of pecan quinoa pilaf with crunchy, grilled broccoli so soft and sweet and charred and smoky on the outside with just a hint of chili flake. Whooo! This is an easy sell. And the best part is all of those ingredients are available to every family at the neighborhood Walmart.
Dakle, prva stvar kod te ideje okrepljujuće morske hrane je kako doista treba uzeti u obzir naše potrebe. Okrepljujuću morsku hranu je najbolje predstaviti ne Raljama ili Flipperom ili Gordonovim ribičem, već Veselim zelenim divom. Povrće: ono bi moglo spasiti oceane. Sylvia voli reći kako je plavo novo zeleno. Pa, ja bih s poštovanjem spomenuo kako brokula zeleno bi moglo biti novo plavo. Moramo nastaviti jesti najbolju moguću morsku hranu, ako uopće. Ali isto je tako moramo jesti u kombinaciji s brdom povrća. Najbolji dio kod okrepljujuće morske hrane je da dolazi na pola police s bocom Tabasca i s graničicama limuna. Dolazi u porcijama od pet unci tilapije pohana s Dijonskim senfom i hrskavim, pečenim krušnim mrvicama i parenom hrpom pekan quinoa pilav oraha s hrskavom, pečenom brokulom tako mekanom i slatkom i zagorjelom i dimljenom izvana s mrvicom čilija. Vuhu! To se lako prodaje. A najbolji dio je kako su svi ti sastojci dostupni svakoj obitelji u susjednom Walmartu.
Jamie Oliver is campaigning to save America from the way we eat. Sylvia is campaigning to save the oceans from the way we eat. There's a pattern here. Forget nuclear holocaust; it's the fork that we have to worry about. We have ravaged our Earth and then used the food that we've sourced to handicap ourselves in more ways than one. So I think we have this whole eating thing wrong. And so I think it's time we change what we expect from our food. Sustainability is complicated but dinner is a reality that we all very much understand. So let's start there.
Jamie Oliver ima kampanju kojom želi spasiti Ameriku od načina na koji jedemo. Sylvia ima kampanju kojom želi spasiti oceane od načina na koji jedemo. Tu postoji obrazac. Zaboravite nuklearni holokaust; vilica je ono oko čega trebamo brinuti. Razorili smo našu zemlju i zatim koristili hranu koju smo pronašli kako bismo hendikepirali sebe na više od jednog načina. Stoga mislim kako je to cijelo jedenje krivo. I stoga mislim kako je vrijeme da promijenimo naša očekivanja od naše hrane. Održivost je komplicirana, ali večera je stvarnost koju svi mi jako dobro razumijemo stoga počnimo tu.
There's been a lot of movement recently in greening our food systems. Dan Barber and Alice Waters are leading passionately the green food Delicious Revolution. But green foods often represent a way for us to disregard the responsibility as eaters. Just because it comes from a green source doesn't mean we can treat it with disregard on the plate. We have eco-friendly shrimp. We can make them; we have that technology. But we can never have any eco-friendly all-you-can-eat shrimp buffet. It doesn't work. Heart-healthy dinner is a very important part of restorative seafood. While we try to manage declining marine populations, the media's recommending increased consumption of seafood. Studies say that tens of thousands of American grandmothers, grandfathers, mothers and fathers might be around for another birthday if we included more seafood. That's a reward I am not willing to pass up. But it's not all about the seafood. It's about the way that we look at our plates.
Bilo je puno pokreta nedavno u ozelenjavanju naših hranidbenih sustava. Dan Barber i Alice Waters strastveno vode Slasnu revoluciju zelene hrane. Ali zelena hrana često predstavlja način za nas da zanemarimo svoju odgovornost kao osobe koje jedu. Samo zato jer dolazi iz zelenog izvora ne znači da to možemo tretirati ignoriranjem onoga što je na tanjuru. Imamo ekološki prihvatljive škampe. Možemo ih napraviti; imamo tu tehnologiju. Ali nikada ne možemo imati ekološki prihvatljiv sve što možete pojesti škampe bufet. To ne funkcionira. Večera zdrava za srce je veoma važan dio naše okrepljujuće morske hrane. Dok mi pokušavamo i upravljamo smanjujućom morskom populacijom, mediji preporučuju povećanu potrošnju morske hrane. Istraživanja pokazuju kako će deseci tisuća američkih baka, djedova, majki i očeva biti s nama još jedan rođendan ukoliko uključimo više morske hrane. To je nagrada koju nisam spreman propustiti. Ali ne radi se samo o morskoj hrani. Radi se o načinu na koji gledamo naše tanjure.
As a chef, I realize the easiest thing for me to do is reduce the portion sizes on my plate. A couple things happened. I made more money. People started buying appetizers and salads, because they knew they weren't going to fill up on the entrees alone. People spent more time engaging in their meals, engaging with each other over their meals. People got, in short, more of what they came there for even though they got less protein. They got more calories over the course of a diversified meal. They got healthier. I made more money. This is great. Environmental consideration was served with every plate, but it was served with a heaping mound of consideration for human interests at the same time.
Kao kuharu, shvaćam kako je meni najjednostavnija stvar za učiniti smanjiti veličinu porcija na mom tanjuru. Nekoliko stvari se dogodilo. Zaradio sam više novca. Ljudi su počeli kupovati predjela i salate, jer su znali kako ih glavno jelo samo neće zasititi. Ljudi su proveli više vremena u svojim obrocima, komunicirajući više jedni s drugima tijekom obroka. Ljudi su dobili, ukratko, više onoga po što su i došli, čak i ako su dobili manje proteina. Dobili su više kalorija tijekom diverzificiranog obroka. Postali su zdraviji. Ja sam zaradio više novca. To je odlično. Ekološka osvještenost je bila servirana na svakom tanjuru, ali bila je servirana s hrpom obzira za ljudske interese u isto vrijeme.
One of the other things we did was begin to diversify the species that we served -- small silverfish, anchovies, mackerel, sardines were uncommon. Shellfish, mussels, oysters, clams, tilapia, char -- these were the common species. We were directing tastes towards more resilience, more restorative options. This is what we need to favor. This is what the green list says. But this is also how we can actually begin to restore our environment.
Jedna od drugih stvari koje smo učinili je bila diverzifikacija vrsta koje smo servirali -- male srebrne ribice, inćuni, skuša, sardine su bile uobičajene. Školjke, dagnje, kamenice, rak, tilapija -- to su bile uobičajene vrste. Usmjeravali smo okuse prema više otpornosti, više okrepljujućih opcija. To je ono što moramo favorizirati. To je ono što nam zelena lista kaže. Ali to je zapravo i način kako možemo početi obnavljati naš okoliš.
But what of those big predators, those fashionable species, that green list tuna that I was talking about earlier? Well, if you must, I have a recipe for you. It pretty much works with any big fish in the ocean, so here we go. Start with a 16-ounce portion of big fish. Get a knife. Cut it into four portions. Put it on four plates. Mound up those four plates with vegetables and then open up the very best bottle of Burgundy you have, light the candles and celebrate it. Celebrate the opportunity you have to eat this. Invite your friends and neighbors over and repeat once a year, maybe.
Ali što je s tim velikim predatorima, tim modernim vrstama, tom tunom sa zelene liste o kojoj sam ranije pričao? Pa, ako želite, imam recept za vas. Više manje funkcionira s bilo kojom velikom ribom u oceanu pa krenimo. Počnimo s porcijom velike ribe od 450 grama. Uzmite nož. Narežite je na četiri porcije. Stavite je na četiri tanjura. Napunite ta četiri tanjura s povrćem i zatim otvorite najbolju bocu Burgundca koju imate, zapalite svijeće i proslavite. Proslavite to kako imate priliku to jesti. Pozovite svoje prijatelje i susjede i ponovite to jednom godišnje, možda.
I expect a lot from food. I expect health and joy and family and community. I expect that producing ingredients, preparing dishes and eating meals is all part of the communion of human interests. I was lucky enough that my father was a fantastic cook. And he taught me very early on about the privilege that eating represents. I remember well the meals of my childhood. They were reasonable portions of protein served with copious quantities of vegetables and small amounts of starch, usually rice. This is still how I largely eat today. I get sick when I go to steakhouses. I get the meat sweats. It's like a hangover from protein. It's disgusting. But of all the dire news that you'll hear and that you have heard about the state of our oceans, I have the unfortunate burden of delivering to you possibly the very worst of it and that is this whole time your mother was right. Eat your vegetables. It's pretty straightforward.
Ja očekujem puno od hrane. Očekujem zdravlje i veselje i obitelj i zajedništvo. Očekujem kako je produciranje sastojaka, pripremanje jela i jedenje obroka sve dio zajedničkih ljudskih interesa. Imao sam sreće što je moj otac bio odličan kuhar. I vrlo rano me naučio koju privilegiju jedenje predstavlja. Dobro se sjećam obroka svog djetinjstva. To su bile razumne porcije proteina servirane s obilnim količinama povrća i malim količinama škroba, obično riže. Tako u velikoj mjeri ja jedem još i danas. Pozli mi kada odem u restoran s odrescima. Znojim se od mesa. To je poput mamurluka od proteina. To je odvratno. Ali od svih groznih vijesti koje ćete čuti i koje ste čuli o stanju naših oceana, na mene je spao nesretni teret reći vam, možda onu najgoru, a to je kako je cijelo ovo vrijeme vaša majka bila u pravu. Jedite svoje povrće. To je prilično direktno.
So what are we looking for in a meal? Well for health, I'm looking for wholesome ingredients that are good for my body. For joy, I'm looking for butter and salt and sexy things that make things taste less like penance. For family, I'm looking for recipes that genuflect to my own personal histories. For community though, we start at the very beginning. There's no escaping the fact that everything we eat has a global impact. So try and learn as best you can what that impact is and then take the first step to minimize it. We've seen an image of our blue planet, our world bank. But it is more than just a repository of our resources; it's also the global geography of the communion we call dinner. So if we all take only what we need, then we can begin to share the rest, we can begin to celebrate, we can begin to restore. We need to savor vegetables. We need to savor smaller portions of seafood. And we need to save dinner.
Dakle, što to tražimo u obroku? Pa za zdravlje, tražim cjelovite sastojke koji su dobri za moje tijelo. Za veselje, tražim maslac i sol i seksi stvari koje čine ukus hrane manje groznim. Za obitelj, tražim recepte koji se savijaju prema mojim osobnim povijestima. Za zajedništvo, moramo početi na samom početku. Ne možemo pobjeći činjenici kako sve što jedemo ima globalni utjecaj. Stoga pokušajte i naučite najbolje što možete koji je to utjecaj i zatim poduzmite prvi korak kako biste ga minimizirali. Vidjeli smo sliku našeg plavog planeta, naše svjetske banke. Ali to je više od samog skladišta naših resursa; to je ujedno i globalna geografija zajedništva kojeg zovemo večera. Dakle, ako svi mi uzmemo samo ono što nam je potrebno, tada možemo početi dijeliti ostatak, možemo početi slaviti, možemo početi obnavljati. Moramo sačuvati povrće. Moramo sačuvati manje porcije morske hrane. I moramo spasiti večeru.
Thank you.
Hvala vam.
(Applause)
(Pljesak)