There's this fact that I love that I read somewhere once, that one of the things that's contributed to homo sapiens' success as a species is our lack of body hair -- that our hairlessness, our nakedness combined with our invention of clothing, gives us the ability to modulate our body temperature and thus be able to survive in any climate we choose. And now we've evolved to the point where we can't survive without clothing. And it's more than just utility, now it's a communication. Everything that we choose to put on is a narrative, a story about where we've been, what we're doing, who we want to be.
有一个事实我非常喜欢, 是我从别的地方读到的, 说的是,人类作为一个物种 能够如此成功的 原因之一, 就是我们缺少体毛—— 我们的这种“裸露”的特性, 再加上我们发明的衣物, 让我们得以控制我们的体温, 进而能够在任意的气候中生存。 如今我们已经进化到 离不开衣物了。 而衣物也已经远不止是用品, 它也是沟通交流的方式。 我们穿着的一切 都变成故事性的陈述, 讲述了我们去过哪里、 我们在做什么、 我们想成为怎样的人。
I was a lonely kid. I didn't have an easy time finding friends to play with, and I ended up making a lot of my own play. I made a lot of my own toys. It began with ice cream. There was a Baskin-Robbins in my hometown, and they served ice cream from behind the counter in these giant, five-gallon, cardboard tubs. And someone told me -- I was eight years old -- someone told me that when they were done with those tubs, they washed them out and kept them in the back, and if you asked they would give you one. It took me a couple of weeks to work up the courage, but I did, and they did. They gave me one -- I went home with this beautiful cardboard tub. I was trying to figure out what I could do with this exotic material -- metal ring, top and bottom. I started turning it over in my head, and I realized, "Wait a minute -- my head actually fits inside this thing."
我曾经是个很孤独的孩子。 我很难找到朋友跟我一起玩, 于是我就自己制作好玩的东西。 我很多的玩具都是自己做的。 最早是从冰淇淋的故事开始。 我家乡有一个Baskin-Robbins 淇淋店, 店员站在柜台后面,把冰淇淋 从这些差不多20升大的 纸桶里舀出来售卖。 有人告诉我—— 那时我只有八岁—— 有人告诉我: 当店员用完这些纸桶的时候, 就会把它们洗干净, 然后存放在店里, 如果你向他们要的话, 他们就会给你一个。 我花了几个星期时间才鼓起勇气, 但是我去问了,他们也给了我。 他们给了我一个—— 这个超级漂亮的纸桶。 我一直在思考 我能用这神奇的东西做什么—— 它上下两端还装着金属环。 我琢磨了很久,然后灵光一现—— “有了,这玩意儿能套在我的头上!”
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Yeah, I cut a hole out, I put some acetate in there and I made myself a space helmet.
对,我剪了一个洞出来, 我在里面加了些醋酸纤维 然后它就变成一个太空人头盔了!
(Laughter)
(笑声)
I needed a place to wear the space helmet, so I found a refrigerator box a couple blocks from home. I pushed it home, and in my parents' guest room closet, I turned it into a spaceship. I started with a control panel out of cardboard. I cut a hole for a radar screen and put a flashlight underneath it to light it. I put a view screen up, which I offset off the back wall -- and this is where I thought I was being really clever -- without permission, I painted the back wall of the closet black and put a star field, which I lit up with some Christmas lights I found in the attic, and I went on some space missions.
我需要个地方 让我能戴上这个头盔, 然后我在离家几个街区的地方 发现了一个冰箱包装箱, 我把箱子推回家, 客房的更衣室里, 打造了一艘太空飞船。 我用卡纸做了一个操控板, 在上面剪了个洞,作雷达屏幕, 然后在底下放了个手电筒 来把它照亮。 我还装上了一个大屏幕, 让它离墙壁有一点距离—— 我觉得自己这个设计 真的特别机智—— 我没有经过父母同意, 把背景墙刷成了黑色, 让它变成了一片星空, 然后用阁楼里找到的 圣诞树彩灯来点亮, 于是我就执行太空任务去了。
A couple years later, the movie "Jaws" came out. I was way too young to see it, but I was caught up in "Jaws" fever, like everyone else in America at the time. There was a store in my town that had a "Jaws" costume in their window, and my mom must have overheard me talking to someone about how awesome I thought this costume was, because a couple days before Halloween, she blew my freaking mind by giving me this "Jaws" costume.
几年之后, 《大白鲨》电影上映了。 我那时年纪太小了不能观看, 但是也疯狂地迷上了大白鲨, 就像全美国的其他人一样。 我住的小镇有一家店, 在橱窗里展出了一件“大白鲨”戏服, 我妈妈一定是听到 我跟别人的讨论, 说这件戏服有多么多么帅气, 结果在万圣节的几天前, 她送了我这一套大白鲨戏服, 简直让我惊喜万分。
Now, I recognize it's a bit of a trope for people of a certain age to complain that kids these days have no idea how good they have it, but let me just show you a random sampling of entry-level kids' costumes you can buy online right now ... ... and this is the "Jaws" costume my mom bought for me.
我知道现在有个普遍现象, 就是有一定年纪的人一直在抱怨, 说现在的孩子根本不明白 他们的物质条件有多好, 但让我给你们看这样一个对比, 现在在网上能买到的 最入门的儿童戏服是这样…… 而那时我妈妈买给我的 “大白鲨”戏服是这样的。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
This is a paper-thin shark face and a vinyl bib with the poster of "Jaws" on it.
这个鲨鱼脸比一张纸还要薄, 然后就是塑料围裙上 画了一张“大白鲨”海报。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
And I loved it.
但我简直爱死它了。
A couple years later, my dad took me to a film called "Excalibur." I actually got him to take me to it twice, which is no small thing, because it is a hard, R-rated film. But it wasn't the blood and guts or the boobs that made me want to go see it again. They helped --
又过了几年, 我爸爸带我去看了 一部叫《黑暗时代》的电影。 其实我让他带我去看了两次, 这事儿其实非同小可, 因为这是一部很暴力的限制级电影。 但我想多看一次并不是因为 其中的血腥场景或者大胸女郎。 可能确实有一部分这个原因……
(Laughter)
(笑声)
It was the armor. The armor in "Excalibur" was intoxicatingly beautiful to me. These were literally knights in shining, mirror-polished armor. And moreover, the knights in "Excalibur" wear their armor everywhere. All the time -- they wear it at dinner, they wear it to bed.
是因为那些盔甲。 《黑暗时代》里的盔甲对我来说 简直是无与伦比的美丽。 这些可是货真价实的骑士, 穿着闪亮、抛光的盔甲。 还有,这些《黑暗时代》的骑士 去到哪里都穿着这套盔甲。 真的是每时每刻—— 吃饭的时候穿着,睡觉也穿着……
(Laughter)
(笑声)
I was like, "Are they reading my mind? I want to wear armor all the time!"
我在想:“他们是不是 和我心灵相通啊? 我好想这样天天穿着盔甲!”
(Laughter)
(笑声)
So I went back to my favorite material, the gateway drug for making, corrugated cardboard, and I made myself a suit of armor, replete with the neck shields and a white horse. Now that I've oversold it, here's a picture of the armor that I made.
于是我捡起我最喜爱的材料, 手工制作的“万能配方”, 就是波纹硬纸板, 我就自己做了一套盔甲出来, 还附带了护颈,以及一匹白马。 我吹牛吹了这么久, 现在就给大家看看这套盔甲的照片。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
(Applause)
(掌声)
Now, this is only the first suit of armor I made inspired by "Excalibur." A couple of years later, I convinced my dad to embark on making me a proper suit of armor. Over about a month, he graduated me from cardboard to roofing aluminum called flashing and still, one of my all-time favorite attachment materials, POP rivets. We carefully, over that month, constructed an articulated suit of aluminum armor with compound curves. We drilled holes in the helmet so that I could breathe, and I finished just in time for Halloween and wore it to school. Now, this is the one thing in this talk that I don't have a slide to show you, because no photo exists of this armor. I did wear it to school, there was a yearbook photographer patrolling the halls, but he never found me, for reasons that are about to become clear.
这是我做的第一套盔甲, 是受《黑暗时代》所启发。 过了几年, 我说服了我爸爸 为我做一套更像样的盔甲。 在一个月左右的时间里, 他让我从使用硬纸皮 进步到用屋顶上的铝板来制作, 还有我一直非常喜爱的 一种连接配件, 就是波普铆钉。 那一个月里,我们非常仔细地 打造了一套铰接而成的铝制盔甲, 有很多重叠弯曲的部分。 我们在头盔上钻了很多孔, 让我可以呼吸, 我们赶在万圣节前做完了, 我就穿着它去了学校。 这是我的演讲里唯一一个 没有幻灯片演示的东西, 因为我没拍这套盔甲的照片。 我确实把它穿到学校了, 那时有一个学校年鉴的摄影师 一直在校园里来回走, 但是他一直没发现我, 我等下再告诉大家原因。
There were things I didn't anticipate about wearing a complete suit of aluminum armor to school. In third period math, I was standing in the back of class, and I'm standing in the back of class because the armor did not allow me to sit down.
有些东西我没有预料到, 穿着这样一套完整的 铝制盔甲去学校会发生什么。 在第三节数学课, 我一直站在教室最后, 我站在教室的最后, 是因为穿着那套盔甲 我根本坐不下来。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
This is the first thing I didn't anticipate. And then my teacher looks at me sort of concerned about halfway through the class and says, "Are you feeling OK?" I'm thinking, "Are you kidding? Am I feeling OK? I'm wearing a suit of armor! I am having the time of my --" And I'm just about to tell her how great I feel, when the classroom starts to list to the left and disappear down this long tunnel, and then I woke up in the nurse's office. I had passed out from heat exhaustion, wearing the armor. And when I woke up, I wasn't embarrassed about having passed out in front of my class, I was wondering, "Who took my armor? Where's my armor?"
这是我第一个没考虑的事情。 课上到一半左右的时候, 老师过来很担忧地问我: “你感觉还好吗?” 我在想:“你在逗我吗? 我感觉好不好? 我穿着一整套盔甲啊! 我简直不能再……” 正当我准备告诉她自己有多爽, 整个教室突然开始往左倒 然后消失在一条长长的走廊里, 然后我就发现自己躺在医务室里了。 我因为穿着那套盔甲, 中暑晕倒了。 当我醒来的时候, 我根本不觉得自己在班级里晕倒 有什么尴尬的, 我马上问:“谁拿了我的盔甲? 我的盔甲去哪儿了?”
OK, fast-forward a whole bunch of years, some colleagues and I get hired to make a show for Discovery Channel, called "MythBusters." And over 14 years, I learn on the job how to build experimental methodologies and how to tell stories about them for television. I also learn early on that costuming can play a key role in this storytelling.
好的,快进到很多年以后, 我的一些同事和我被雇用, 为探索频道拍一个节目, 名叫《流言终结者》。 在超过14年里, 我在工作中学习到 如何设计实验方法, 学会了在电视上 讲述有关实验的故事。 我很早就意识到, 戏服在这种讲述过程中 可以有很重要的作用。
I use costumes to add humor, comedy, color and narrative clarity to the stories we're telling. And then we do an episode called "Dumpster Diving," and I learn a little bit more about the deeper implications of what costuming means to me. In the episode "Dumpster Diving," the question we were trying to answer is: Is jumping into a dumpster as safe as the movies would lead you to believe?
我用戏服来增添 幽默感、喜剧感、画面感, 并且可以更清晰地叙述 我们所讲的故事。 后来我们拍了一集, 名叫“垃圾箱缓冲”, 从中我也学到了一些东西, 了解了戏服扮演对我来说 有什么更深层次的意义。 在“垃圾箱缓冲”这一集, 我们想要解答的问题是: 跳进一个大垃圾箱里 真的像电影里拍的那样安全吗?
(Laughter)
(笑声)
The episode was going to have two distinct parts to it. One was where we get trained to jump off buildings by a stuntman into an air bag. And the second was the graduation to the experiment: we'd fill a dumpster full of material and we'd jump into it. I wanted to visually separate these two elements, and I thought, "Well, for the first part we're training, so we should wear sweatsuits -- Oh! Let's put 'Stunt Trainee' on the back of the sweatsuits. That's for the training." But for the second part, I wanted something really visually striking -- "I know! I'll dress as Neo from 'The Matrix.'"
这一集有两个不同的重点部分。 其一,我们在专业特技演员的 辅导下学会从高楼上跳下, 跳进一个气垫里。 其二,才是真实场景的实验: 我们把一个垃圾箱装满杂物, 然后纵身跳进去。 我想从视觉上把这两个部分区分开, 我就想: “好吧,我们的第一部分是训练, 所以我们要穿训练服—— 哦!我们在训练服背上 写上‘特技初学者’吧。 这是训练部分用的。” 但是到第二部分, 我想让视觉冲击特别强—— “我知道了!我要扮演成 《黑客帝国》里的尼欧!”
(Laughter)
(笑声)
So I went to Haight Street. I bought some beautiful knee-high, buckle boots. I found a long, flowing coat on eBay. I got sunglasses, which I had to wear contact lenses in order to wear. The day of the experiment shoot comes up, and I step out of my car in this costume, and my crew takes a look at me ... and start suppressing their church giggles. They're like, "(Laugh sound)." And I feel two distinct things at this moment. I feel total embarrassment over the fact that it's so nakedly clear to my crew that I'm completely into wearing this costume.
于是我去了海特街。 我买了些非常漂亮的 长筒搭扣靴子。 我在易趣网找到了件潇洒至极的斗篷。 我买了墨镜,我得带上 隐形眼镜之后才能戴墨镜。 拍摄真实场景实验的那天终于到了, 我穿着这套戏服走出我的车, 我的同事们瞅了我一眼…… 然后所有人都强忍着笑声。 他们就像这样: “(噗嗤)” 这一刻我突然产生了两种感觉。 我感觉到彻头彻尾的尴尬, 显然,对我的同事们来说, 我穿这套衣服实在是太“入戏”了。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
But the producer in my mind reminds myself that in the high-speed shot in slow-mo, that flowing coat is going to look beautiful behind me.
但我脑海中的制片人思维告诉我, 在高速摄影机下, 我身后那飘扬的斗篷 看起来一定酷毙了。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Five years into the "MythBusters" run, we got invited to appear at San Diego Comic-Con. I'd known about Comic-Con for years and never had time to go. This was the big leagues -- this was costuming mecca. People fly in from all over the world to show their amazing creations on the floor in San Diego. And I wanted to participate. I decided that I would put together an elaborate costume that covered me completely, and I would walk the floor of San Diego Comic-Con anonymously. The costume I chose? Hellboy. That's not my costume, that's actually Hellboy.
开拍《流言终结者》之后五年, 我们受邀参加了圣迭戈动漫展。 我一直以来都了解漫展, 但是从来没时间去。 这就像是体育大联盟, 戏服扮演的圣地。 从全世界各地赶来的人 都在圣迭戈展示自己独特的创造。 我也非常想参与进来。 我决定,要制作一套精美的服装, 要把我全身都遮起来, 然后我就匿名地在圣迭戈漫展出现。 所以我选了什么呢? 地狱男爵。 这不是我的戏服, 这是电影里的地狱男爵。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
But I spent months assembling the most screen-accurate Hellboy costume I could, from the boots to the belt to the pants to the right hand of doom. I found a guy who made a prosthetic Hellboy head and chest and I put them on. I even had contact lenses made in my prescription. I wore it onto the floor at Comic-Con and I can't even tell you how balls hot it was in that costume.
但我花了数月的时间 打造了一个与银幕最相似的 地狱男爵戏服, 从靴子到皮带到裤子, 再到他的恶魔右手。 我找到一个家伙可以制作 地狱男爵头部和胸部的假体, 然后我就穿上了。 我甚至还专门配了一副隐形眼镜。 我把戏服穿到漫展去, 我根本没法描述 那衣服里到底热成什么鬼样子。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Sweating! I should've remembered this. I'm sweating buckets and the contact lenses hurt my eyes, and none of it matters because I'm totally in love.
我满头大汗!我早该吸取教训的! 我的汗都流成河了, 然后隐形眼镜刺得我眼睛痛, 但是我根本顾不上, 因为我简直爱它到不能自拔。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
Not just with the process of putting on this costume and walking the floor, but also with the community of other costumers. It's not called costuming at Cons, it's called "cosplay." Now ostensibly, cosplay means people who dress up as their favorite characters from film and television and especially anime, but it is so much more than that. These aren't just people who find a costume and put it on -- they mash them up. They bend them to their will. They change them to be the characters they want to be in those productions. They're super clever and genius. They let their freak flag fly and it's beautiful.
这并不只是把戏服穿上, 然后在展厅里溜达那么简单, 其中还有与扮演者社区的交流。 漫展上这不叫做“穿戏服”, 这叫做“角色扮演”。 表面上说,角色扮演意味着 人们把自己打扮成 自己最喜欢的电影电视角色, 特别是动漫角色, 但其中的意义比这多得多。 这些人不仅仅是 找一件戏服穿上就可以了, 他们把戏服结合起来。 他们按自己的意愿去解读。 他们在创作中把自己变成 他们想成为的角色。 这些人都非常聪明,有天赋。 这些人打着怪胎的旗号, 这景象真的太美了。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
But more than that, they rehearse their costumes. At Comic-Con or any other Con, you don't just take pictures of people walking around. You go up and say, "Hey, I like your costume, can I take your picture?" And then you give them time to get into their pose. They've worked hard on their pose to make their costume look great for your camera. And it's so beautiful to watch. And I take this to heart. At subsequent Cons, I learn Heath Ledger's shambling walk as the Joker from "The Dark Knight." I learn how to be a scary Ringwraith from "Lord of the Rings," and I actually frighten some children. I learned that "hrr hrr hrr" -- that head laugh that Chewbacca does.
但还不止这些, 他们还要穿着戏服彩排。 在漫展或任何其它展会, 你并不只是给四处走动的人拍照。 你会凑到他们身前说, “嘿!我好喜欢你的戏服, 能给你拍个照吗?” 然后你要给他们时间去摆动作。 他们很努力地练过这些动作, 让他们的戏服更好地体现在 你的照相机里。 这看起来真的美极了。 而这一点我也铭记于心。 在之后的几次漫展, 我在扮演《黑暗骑士》的小丑时 学会了希斯·莱杰的蹒跚步, 我学会了如何扮演 《指环王》里的邪恶戒灵, 而且我真的吓到了几个小朋友。 我学会了"哼哼……", 《星球大战》楚巴卡的怪笑声。
And then I dressed up as No-Face from "Spirited Away." If you don't know about "Spirited Away" and its director, Hayao Miyazaki, first of all, you're welcome.
之后,我扮演成 《千与千寻》里的无面人。 如果你还不知道《千与千寻》 和它的创作者宫崎骏, 那么,不用谢。
(Laughter)
(笑声)
This is a masterpiece, and one of my all-time favorite films. It's about a young girl named Chihiro who gets lost in the spirit world in an abandoned Japanese theme park. And she finds her way back out again with the help of a couple of friends she makes -- a captured dragon named Haku and a lonely demon named No-Face. No-Face is lonely and he wants to make friends, and he thinks the way to do it is by luring them to him and producing gold in his hand. But this doesn't go very well, and so he ends up going on kind of a rampage until Chihiro saves him, rescues him.
这是一部巨作, 也是我最喜爱的电影之一。 故事讲述了一位名叫千寻的女孩子, 在一个废弃的日本主题公园里 迷失在了灵异世界中。 她在几个朋友的帮助下, 最后回到了现实世界—— 一条被囚禁的龙,名叫琥珀主, 还有一个孤独的幽灵,叫做无面人。 无面人非常孤单, 他很想跟别人交朋友, 他觉得交朋友的办法 就是引诱别人到他身边, 然后在手里变出金币。 但这个过程并不顺利, 于是他陷入了一种狂暴状态, 直至千寻拯救了他, 帮助了他。
So I put together a No-Face costume, and I wore it on the floor at Comic-Con. And I very carefully practiced No-Face's gestures. I resolved I would not speak in this costume at all. When people asked to take my picture, I would nod and I would shyly stand next to them. They would take the picture and then I would secret out from behind my robe a chocolate gold coin. And at the end of the photo process, I'd make it appear for them. Ah, ah ah! -- like that.
所以我做了一套无面人的服装, 在漫展上穿出来。 我还很仔细地练习过 无面人的动作。 我决定穿着戏服的时候 一个字都不说。 当有人为我拍照时, 我会点头, 然后害羞地站在他们旁边。 他们拍了照, 我就偷偷地从斗篷后面 拿出一个巧克力做的金币。 在拍完照的时候, 我就会给他们变出来。 “啊……啊……”像这样。
And people were freaking out. "Holy crap! Gold from No-Face! Oh my god, this is so cool!" And I'm feeling and I'm walking the floor and it's fantastic. And about 15 minutes in something happens. Somebody grabs my hand, and they put a coin back into it. And I think maybe they're giving me a coin as a return gift, but no, this is one of the coins that I'd given away. I don't know why. And I keep on going, I take some more pictures. And then it happens again. Understand, I can't see anything inside this costume. I can see through the mouth -- I can see people's shoes. I can hear what they're saying and I can see their feet. But the third time someone gives me back a coin, I want to know what's going on. So I sort of tilt my head back to get a better view, and what I see is someone walking away from me going like this. And then it hits me: it's bad luck to take gold from No-Face. In the film "Spirited Away," bad luck befalls those who take gold from No-Face.
大家都吓了一大跳。 “我的天啊!无面人的金币! 好家伙,这简直太帅了!” 我沉浸在这种感觉中, 这样走在漫展上真的太棒了。 然而过了15分钟,发生了一件事。 有人抓住我的手, 然后把一块金币塞到我手里。 我在想他们是不是 给我一块金币作为回礼, 但是不对啊, 这是我给出去的一块金币。 我不知道为什么。 我继续发金币, 继续跟大家合照。 然后就又发生了。 要说明一下,我在戏服里 是看不见东西的。 我可以从嘴巴那里看出去—— 但我只能看到鞋子。 我可以听见他们在讲什么, 也能看见他们的脚。 但第三次有人把金币还给我时, 我就想知道发生了什么。 所以我把头向后仰,让视野更清晰, 我看到的是人们像这样避开我行走。 突然我明白了: 拿无面人的金币是一种凶兆。 在《千与千寻》电影里, 厄运会降临到那些 拿了无面人金币的人身上。
This isn't a performer-audience relationship; this is cosplay. We are, all of us on that floor, injecting ourselves into a narrative that meant something to us. And we're making it our own. We're connecting with something important inside of us. And the costumes are how we reveal ourselves to each other.
这不是普通的表演者 与观众的关系;这是角色扮演。 我们所有人,在展厅里, 都把自己沉浸在 一种富有深意的情景之中。 我们融入了这个环境。 我们交流着内心深处的重要情感。 而戏服正是我们向他人 展现自己的方式。
Thank you.
谢谢大家。
(Applause)
(掌声)